I finally decided it was time to replace the door seals on our 240d. The old seals are not being co-operative. They want to tear apart and come off in small chunks no bigger than about 2in and most of it in the door channel wants to stay put. I have replaced seals on a couple of other non Mercedes cars I've owned in the past that weren't this difficult. The previous owner did have it repainted over 10 years ago, could overspray be the culprit or are they just this difficult too remove? Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

I'm having a 126 repainted and tried removing the driver seal. It came right out.

Several in the yard have torn and not been useable.

My guess is that the seal you are fighting with isn't original or has some kind of glue on it.

They should come right out.

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'80 300SD - '83 240D - '00 E55 AMG - '02 G500

Are you trying to pull them straight out. If they are similar design to the w126 they kinda roll out. You grab the part that is protruding and pull out while rolling the inside lip away from the center of the door. I'm taking all four off my car to get to the plastic strip around the windows.

Imo, it's easier to clean, prep and paint those strips if they are out of the car. The rubber seal is cooperating nicely though the metal plate's fasteners on the hinge side of the door are a beast to remove. I ended up cutting the heads off them to keep from bending the metal plate. I understand from my reading here that those nylon pins for the metal strip can be purchased at Tractor supply, fyi.

If this has nothing to do with the 123 bodies please excuse my wordiness and intrusion on this post.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I would guess that an adhesive was used on those seals at the last installation. There is normally no need for adhesives. They are adequately retained by the channels.

I'd suggest getting some rubbing alcohol and putting it into a syringe (a baby cough medicine type) and getting the tip down inside the groove, then squirting in the alcohol.

It will not mess up your paint at all and if u let if sit for a few mins that should eat the adhesive up and allow you to work the seals out. (Maybe use a flathead or even better a plastic tool trim kit)

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I pulled mine to paint my car, and yes they were factory, and yes there was some yellow glue used in a couple of places around the corners and on the inside of the door where the seal goes around the door check.

Also, there is a metal holder that is held in with I think it's 5 plastic button rivets on the front doors, it's about 16 inches long. It's best to just cut those rivets with a wire cutter, so you don't risk bending up the metal retainer.

Once you get most the rubber material off, then a rag and goo-gone or something like that will get the rest of the rubber and glue off.

All of my seals came out in pieces, none of them was it possible to keep them together, which was too bad, because even after 30 years, they were all is perfect condition. And the new seals are taking forever to "squish" so you don't have to slam the door to close it.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

There has been some rubber cement type product under every w123 seal Ive replaced. There's an MB part for it too.

Yes the sheet metal retainers are a major pain...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Thanks for all the advice. Ill try the rubbing alcohol and see what it does. Hopefully that will help. May be a couple of weeks before I can give it a try.

There is definitely glue around the opening for the arm of the door stop. I have Wellwood contact cement and 3M 5500. Which would be best?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

It won't touch it, you'll need solvent, goo-gone in the metal can, or lacquer thinner.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

I just used 3M black super wheatherstrip adhesive. Also come int yellow for lighter paint colors. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Black-Super-Weatherstrip-Adhesive?N=5002385+3292908126&rt=rud

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.