Several years ago I replaced the tumbler when my key got so I had to jiggle it to turn it.

But I also used JB Weld to glue that locking pin permanently back in the housing so that if the mechanism ever fails again I will still be able to get it out without major surgery.

Richard

Like this; Steering Colum Locking Pin epoxied in.

It also makes the Key easier to turn so there is less stress on the components.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Oh yeah. Thx, the photos jogged my memory. Things were binding up and this little pin wasn't moving. Wow, I should have filled it in like you. That would have saved a few bucks.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

In order to depress the pin the steering coulum lock needs to be in that position that you were in when you removed the Lock Tumbler. If it is not in that position you cannot depress the pin. (I am speaking of the pin that I epoxied down.)

It depends on what broke.
In my case it was the piece that went down into the Ignition Switch that broke. The actual locking mechanism that locked the steering colum was OK.

My opinion is that if you pull out your Lock Tumbler because it is not turning correctly you might as well pull the Steering Colum Lock out and inspect the Ignition Switch and the innards of the Steering Colum Lock to see of they are OK or right on the edge.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Right. I recall mine was functional but it was hanging up internally due to wear. I imagined a big groove had just worn in the metal inside and was hanging up things.

I didn't realize I could freeze it in the unlocked position.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

Wow! This.is.Awesome! Thanks for the pictures and explanations. I gave up on removing the rear plate. Maybe ill try and rip out that small spring through the saftey seatbelt harness Either way, this great. Thanks.

The steel plate is pretty well crimped in. It would take some grinding of the aluminum to get it out.
For someone else remving that plate it could be epoxied back in place with JB Weld the one that takes 2-4 hours to cure. I say that because I don't think the fast curing epoxy is as strong as the slow cured one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel