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#76
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What I'm wondering is that if its not just condensation from bigtime temperature changes. Think of how hot a caliper gets and then it cools down, back and forth. This may explain the caliper fails. Or maybe is moisture getting past the seal as it seems the like to rust just on the other side of the piston seal.
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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast. |
#77
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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing. Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor '95 S320 LWB '87 300SDL '04 E500 wagon 4matic |
#78
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Sorry, no waterlogged brake fluid, no deal.
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#79
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Never understood why changing brake fluid was considered such a big issue. Every time I change the pads, I change the fluid, and at the rate I run the cars, that works out to be two to three years, sometimes more often. It is an extra couple of bucks - I use Castrol GTX, a DOT4 product available at most auto stores. I posted a brake pad replacement procedure for W123's a long time ago, and noted the color of the fluid is nasty when it comes out. I never push the old stuff back into the system, I always open the bleed screw and fit a hose over the end, and collect the old stuff in a glass jar I can see the old stuff as is drains. This also makes forcing the pistons back into the calipers easier. For the price of the brake fluid it is crazy not to flush the lines. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#80
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It really is a piece of cake with the pressure bleeder
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#81
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Just curious, how do you (and others here) feel about it? Thanks, Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#82
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I bleed the clutch every year when I do my brakes. The fluid coming out of it is usually much dirtier than what comes out of the brake lines. I use a pressure bleeder - makes it very easy.
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Len '59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta '83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD '88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home '99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles '03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter '14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles '14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles '15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles |
#83
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How do you do the clutch with the pressure bleeder? It does seem like a good thing to do but I've always done the clutch with the brake slave, hose to clutch slave thing.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#84
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I think that he is talking about FLUSHING the clutch with the pressure bleeder. That said, usually you can get by bleeding the clutch with the two man method or a pressure bleeder if you will let it set overnight afterward to let the rest of the bubbles work their way out.
You can watch the reservoir and see the bubbles coming up through the clutch nipple. Every once in a while you get a stubborn clutch that will need to bled bottom up. |
#85
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Do you think it feasible to do the clutch flushing procedure without a power bleeder, just by opening up the bleeder valve and letting the fluid out (one-man flush)? I did it this way a few days ago with the brake line and it worked wonderfully... no problems at all! Thanks for your input, Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#86
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I use the pressure bleeder for clutch and brakes. The last nipple I do is the one on the clutch. With the pressure bleeder still attached to the brake fluid reservoir and opening the bleeder nipple on the clutch, it flows out nice and steady. Once it's clear, close it up and you're done. Never tried it any other way.
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Len '59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta '83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD '88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home '99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles '03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter '14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles '14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles '15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles |
#87
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Quote:
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#88
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When was the last time you saw a W123 on the side of the road dead? Perhaps MB owners tend to be more meticulous about maint because they (mostly older models) will last more or less forever? I never changed my ps or brake fluid on my accord, at 200k whats the point? However I know my diesels will make it to 400+ with ease and even then I will probably rebuild the engine or replace it.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#89
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This weekend.
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#90
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Quote:
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
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