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  #76  
Old 03-11-2007, 01:16 PM
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What I'm wondering is that if its not just condensation from bigtime temperature changes. Think of how hot a caliper gets and then it cools down, back and forth. This may explain the caliper fails. Or maybe is moisture getting past the seal as it seems the like to rust just on the other side of the piston seal.

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  #77  
Old 03-11-2007, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwitchKitty View Post
I want to see someone drive a heavily loaded truck down a big hill with 24 year old brake fluid. That hill on the I-17 north of Phoenix would do or that one on I-77 between 81 and 40. I will sell tickets for other spectators to watch and I want a life insurance policy on the driver and all film rights. Down shifting is not allowed and you don't get to wear your seatbelt or use the runaway truck ramps. Any takers?

If you change your brake fluid by the book you replace the bleeders before they start looking bad. Bleeders are cheap. They are never a problem if you maintain them. Some people have said to cover them with tubing and grease to help preserve them.

There are techniques to bleed ABS brakes without the scan tool. I have posted on this before. I remember ABS has been on production cars since the early '70s Lincolns. They aren't that special.
seeing as trucks that I drive run on air, I accept. You paying for the policy or the rest of my life?? Film rights will be shared after the fact.
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  #78  
Old 03-11-2007, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosfella View Post
seeing as trucks that I drive run on air, I accept. You paying for the policy or the rest of my life?? Film rights will be shared after the fact.
Sorry, no waterlogged brake fluid, no deal.
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  #79  
Old 03-11-2007, 05:42 PM
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Never understood why changing brake fluid was considered such a big issue. Every time I change the pads, I change the fluid, and at the rate I run the cars, that works out to be two to three years, sometimes more often. It is an extra couple of bucks - I use Castrol GTX, a DOT4 product available at most auto stores. I posted a brake pad replacement procedure for W123's a long time ago, and noted the color of the fluid is nasty when it comes out. I never push the old stuff back into the system, I always open the bleed screw and fit a hose over the end, and collect the old stuff in a glass jar I can see the old stuff as is drains. This also makes forcing the pistons back into the calipers easier. For the price of the brake fluid it is crazy not to flush the lines. Jim
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1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #80  
Old 03-11-2007, 07:44 PM
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It really is a piece of cake with the pressure bleeder
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #81  
Old 03-11-2007, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcane View Post
240 Ed:

I could not have said it better! In addition, water in brake fluid = rusting/corroding brake componets = failed brake components because of the rust/corrosion = at a minumum poor braking because componets do not move like they should (like the caliper piston not pushing on the brake pads with full force) = brake components needing R&R long before they would need to be but for not changing the brake fluid. Absorbtion of atmospheric moisture causes brake fluid to turn opaque and tells the aware owner to replace the brake fluid. I use my Mighty Vac to R&R the brake fluid every year, doing it when the humidity is low - like the M-B owners and service manuals call for.

Tom
Hey Tom, I drive a 240D, both brakes and clutch share the same fluid and fluid reservoir... I just changed the fluid, bled the brake lines... Then it occurred to me: that same old fluid corrodes/rusts not only the brake lines and components, but also the clutch lines and components... should I also replace the fluid in and bleed the clutch lines? I asked that in another thread today and the consensus (only two readers answered my question) was: don't mess around with the clutch, it is a bucket of worms for the first timer... If you live in a dry climate and the old brake fluid was pretty clear, forget about it... leave the clutch alone.

Just curious, how do you (and others here) feel about it?

Thanks,
Rino
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  #82  
Old 03-11-2007, 10:54 PM
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I bleed the clutch every year when I do my brakes. The fluid coming out of it is usually much dirtier than what comes out of the brake lines. I use a pressure bleeder - makes it very easy.
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  #83  
Old 03-12-2007, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
I bleed the clutch every year when I do my brakes. The fluid coming out of it is usually much dirtier than what comes out of the brake lines. I use a pressure bleeder - makes it very easy.
How do you do the clutch with the pressure bleeder? It does seem like a good thing to do but I've always done the clutch with the brake slave, hose to clutch slave thing.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #84  
Old 03-12-2007, 07:43 AM
LarryBible
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I think that he is talking about FLUSHING the clutch with the pressure bleeder. That said, usually you can get by bleeding the clutch with the two man method or a pressure bleeder if you will let it set overnight afterward to let the rest of the bubbles work their way out.

You can watch the reservoir and see the bubbles coming up through the clutch nipple.

Every once in a while you get a stubborn clutch that will need to bled bottom up.
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  #85  
Old 03-12-2007, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
I bleed the clutch every year when I do my brakes. The fluid coming out of it is usually much dirtier than what comes out of the brake lines. I use a pressure bleeder - makes it very easy.
So you are saying it's easy... I wonder what was all that talk about the "bucket of worms..." In your opinion, as a beginner (I have never done clutch flushing, obviously), where am I likely to encounter the most difficulty?
Do you think it feasible to do the clutch flushing procedure without a power bleeder, just by opening up the bleeder valve and letting the fluid out (one-man flush)?
I did it this way a few days ago with the brake line and it worked wonderfully... no problems at all!

Thanks for your input,
Rino
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  #86  
Old 03-12-2007, 10:31 AM
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I use the pressure bleeder for clutch and brakes. The last nipple I do is the one on the clutch. With the pressure bleeder still attached to the brake fluid reservoir and opening the bleeder nipple on the clutch, it flows out nice and steady. Once it's clear, close it up and you're done. Never tried it any other way.
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Len
'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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  #87  
Old 03-12-2007, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
I use the pressure bleeder for clutch and brakes. The last nipple I do is the one on the clutch. With the pressure bleeder still attached to the brake fluid reservoir and opening the bleeder nipple on the clutch, it flows out nice and steady. Once it's clear, close it up and you're done. Never tried it any other way.
I see, because you are not introducing any air into the system you dont need to do the "upside down" or the "over night drain" thing. I like it, thanks.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #88  
Old 03-12-2007, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickjordan View Post
Just curious as to why I have never heard of changing brake fluid until I got into German cars. My VW calls for brake fluid change every 2 years. I mentioned changing the brake fluid to co-wprker who owns a Ford, and he said he has never done that and has had no problems.
"Found On the side of the Road Dead"....

When was the last time you saw a W123 on the side of the road dead? Perhaps MB owners tend to be more meticulous about maint because they (mostly older models) will last more or less forever?

I never changed my ps or brake fluid on my accord, at 200k whats the point? However I know my diesels will make it to 400+ with ease and even then I will probably rebuild the engine or replace it.
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  #89  
Old 03-12-2007, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
When was the last time you saw a W123 on the side of the road dead?
This weekend.
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  #90  
Old 03-12-2007, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
... and if you change your engine when it needs to be changed you don't have to worry about changing your oil either.

BTW, my W123 haynes manual does not say anything about using a c-clamp for the brakes. I very much doubt that you can fit a c-clamp in these calipers.
I use likea 5" C clamp when resistance is to great. Works like a champ.

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