The kicker is I don't want them removing the axles or anything like that. I simply want them to weld on a nut so I can remove a stripped triple square bolt.

Fell like no one will do such a small favor, and no, I don't know anyone with a welder.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

You might try a muffler/exhaust shop. They are good at welding and probably would not know how to remove your axle if they wanted to.

Have you tried any of the multitude of broken bolt extractors?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Have you tried this type of extractor?



Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

It's actually xzn bolts, so i might have to cut off the head and use an extractor to get it out. Left hand straight fluted drill bits will be the weapon of choice.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

The bolt grip should work on the XZN head if there's room.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

I agree with the muffler shop suggestion. Be aware that it might not work - but it might. Sometimes the welded-on nut will break off and that's just a matter of how good a weld you can get on a grubby bolt and a new nut. It's hard to get them really clean. Or you could bring it over here and I'll weld it for you.

Dan

That would be a 4 1/2 hour drive down your way. Interesting, if the nut doesn't hold and snaps off, then I'll have no choice but to cut the head of and extract the stud.

I'll go to a muffler shop first, then I'll consider extracting it.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Would grinding the head off flush, removing the axle and grabbing the remaining stud with vise grips work?

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Just reread you're last post...it's what you said...need more coffee.😀

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Huh, no problem.

BUT

I do have one more naging question.

I've decided to aquire a right angle air drill however I'm not sure whether to go 1/4 or 3/8, being I'm only using this thing for extraction in mind, and the space I have is extremely limited. I think I have no choice but to go with the 1/4 version.

These three in particular peak my interests.

Look how small that head is my god!
https://m.ebay.com/itm/United-Air-Tool-90-Degree-Drill-Motor-SD2-1-4-28-Threaded-Head-2700-RPM/391914000836

A 3/8th one

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-AT811-3-8-Air-Drill-Reversible-90-Degree-Angle/322597540141

https://m.ebay.com/itm/C-P-90-DEGREE-AIR-DRILL-3-8/272122075364

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Also consider a close quarters drill.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

You're talking electric correct? Are 3/8 close quarters smaller than 3/8 air?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

https://www.tooltopia.com/ingersoll-rand-7807r.aspx

The I/R is a good drill. Astro makes a good copy. I have both and they have over 20 years of hard service use without problems.

I find the 1/4" drills to be too fragile and prone to walking.

Do NOT get the "key-less" chuck versions. They are crap for anything but wood or plastic drilling.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Two thoughts:

1 Once you weld extensions to the bolt heads, the car will no longer be driveable. There’s not much clearance.

2 Don’t you dare try to drill out the bolts, or the next thing you’ll be writing about is how to replace the CV and flange.

I think the best bet is to grind off the heads, and pull the axle leaving the stubs in place. You may have to remove the bones and hub for clearance. Once the axle is clear, use a pipe wrench, vice grip, stud puller, or lightning wrench to undo the stubs.

I’ve found that these repairs are easier if you just drop the whole subframe. Having a lot of clearance and not working overhead is much easier. It may be daunting, but think about it.

FOG:

There is no need to be talking of drilling the bolt shanks after the heads have been ground off. If it is not obvious, once the heads are removed the CV joint & axle can be removed. That will expose the bolt shanks which are about 1" long, and they can then be removed w/ vise grips. A couple of fresh ball-end cylindrical carbide burrs of 1/2" diameter will get it done. Over-thinking is an impediment.

See above post.