If the block heater is working, it will make a hissing sound when plugged into power, and after 30 minutes or so the block will be noticeably warm to the touch. Very valid test to see if the heater is working. If the block still feels cold after 30 minutes, something is wrong (either the cord or the block heater).

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

It would start when warm even if the fuel system bleeds down over night. The 1st start bleeds the system and subsequent sittings during the day are not long enough for it to bleed down.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I took off the injector hard lines to get to the glowplugs easier, all glowplugs were good when i tested them on an old battery, but i noticed that one injector was dry. Here is a picture of the 4th injector with fuel compared to the 5th injector no fuel. https://imgur.com/a/6Zy47 I assume this is my problem?

Do you mean fuel isn't getting to the 5th injector, thus it being dry? Delivery valve issue I suppose, maybe the DV is leaking....but it'd have to be leaking BAD for it to kill the injector.

Or do you mean there is fuel literally on the 4th injector? I don't know what to make of your picture to be honest.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Perhaps disconnect the hard line at the injector, crank engine to confirm lack of fuel.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned, but when was your valve adjustment last done?

I always had tough starts when my valves got out of adjustment, especially when cold.

Yes, so the question is when did you last , or ever , make sure the carbon was removed from the Pre Combustion chamber ?

AND either way... .there is a chart in the FSM which shows the temperatures the glow plugs can get to based on time engaged...

AND in cold weather and any problems starting with less glow plugging.. the FSM suggests up to ONE MINUTE ( use a watch or you will ' misestimate' it ) LOL

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

That...and a properly timed injection pump will go a long ways toward reducing cranking time.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.