Fighting WVO residue in prechambers - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tjts1 · #16 02-28-2018, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

The head was just sitting on the table like that? It needs to be well secured when torque is applied.

Does two 200lb men count?

All 6 collar nuts are out now. Next step is pulling the prechambers. I'm waiting on the bicycle bottom bracket tool to attach to my slide hammer. Same thing MB source sells for a fraction of the price.

Bonus prechamber ****show pic.

After removing the prechambers I'm going to clean and measure the head surface to decide if it needs to be resurfaced or not. This head has definitely been apart before. The valve stem seals look brand new. Whoever ran this engine on WVO didn't do it for very long. Thank you to everyone for your help.

barry12345 · #17 02-28-2018, 01:11 PM

You are very limited to the clean up amount of resurfacing. Without going to the extra thick gasket on these heads. Perhaps around three thousand if never done previously.

As you see replacement valve seals. There is a chance the head had other work done at that time. Valve guides if replaced where and if needed specifically.

mbolton1990 · #18 02-28-2018, 03:50 PM

Awesome, good job man!

Diseasel300 · #19 02-28-2018, 04:35 PM

Definitely check to see if it actually needs resurfacing. The #14 on my SDL was still well within specs despite the engine being in relatively sad shape at the time. It got new valve guides, valves ground, and cleaned up before being thrown back on.

Diesel911 · #20 02-28-2018, 04:51 PM

Thanks for the pic of the prechamber ring tool. I was just curious.

tjts1 · #21 03-12-2018, 12:54 AM

I'm using a 5 lb slide hammer, the cyl head is bouncing all over my work bench and the prechbers just won't budge. Is it easier if the head is bolted to the engine? If I keep this up I'm going to damage the head. I measured the head surface in every direction and I can't fit any of the feeler gauges under the straight edge. I might just install it as is. But I still need to clean out the remaining WVO crud from the inside of the prechambers.

Maxbumpo · #22 03-12-2018, 12:11 PM

Bolting the head down to something would certainly help.

I'd vote for "install it as it is" after cleaning out the pre-chamber threads. Don't worry about what is deeper inside, that will all get burned up during operation unless it is plugging up the holes at the bottom.

funola · #23 03-12-2018, 12:39 PM

Why are you removing the pre-chambers? Are they damaged? Is the ball intact? If you must remove them, the next step is heat.

OM617YOTA · #24 03-12-2018, 12:43 PM

Definitely bolt the head down to something. Right now you're lifting the head up before you get any significant energy into the prechamber.

Maybe some heat too. Not enough to change anything metalurgically, but enough to loosen the WVO grunge.

ah-kay · #25 03-12-2018, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

Why the pre-chamber needed to be removed? Spray some simple green and leave it over night. Use a small brass brush to clean out the injector thread. Blow out debris with compress air. Done IMHO. Others may beg to differ.

Much to do about nothing.

torsionbar · #26 03-12-2018, 01:13 PM

Have you tried hitting it with an axe?

dieselbenz1 · #27 03-12-2018, 01:50 PM

I just did that with the same engine. 3 lb slide hammer minimum 15 blows with both hands 24 in throw. Head was bolted down with 4 bolts as per fsm. Simple green in an ultrasonic bath made them look like new.

tjts1 · #28 03-12-2018, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

I just did that with the same engine. 3 lb slide hammer minimum 15 blows with both hands 24 in throw. Head was bolted down with 4 bolts as per fsm. Simple green in an ultrasonic bath made them look like new.

Sounds good, I'll bolt it down. Thank you.

Diesel911 · #29 03-12-2018, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjts1

Sounds good, I'll bolt it down. Thank you.

I did this with one of our past members in a parking lot with the head only.

Put the head on a pad (a double layer of cardboard would work) and either he or myself stood on the Head while the other used the Slide Hammer.

Could it be that the prchambes with the angle injection are harder to pull out because the tool goes in at an angle?

The slide hammer is the one pictured. It has what I believe is a 5 pound weight but notice that the shaft is about 2.5 feet long. Autozone and other parts stores have them on a free rental. Although the one in the pic is mine.

tjts1 · #30 03-12-2018, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I did this with one of our past members in a parking lot with the head only.

Put the head on a pad (a double layer of cardboard would work) and either he or myself stood on the Head while the other used the Slide Hammer.

Could it be that the prchambes with the angle injection are harder to pull out because the tool goes in at an angle?

The slide hammer is the one pictured. It has what I believe is a 5 pound weight but notice that the shaft is about 2.5 feet long. Autozone and other parts stores have them on a free rental. Although the one in the pic is mine.

Injectors are not angled. It's the same setup as my existing 87/#14. I'm trying to figure out a good base to bolt it down to now. I'm using a bicycle crank extractor, 3/8-24 bolt and nut and slide hammer. Whole setup was $30. I'm glad I asked before doing some damage or giving up.
https://i.imgur.com/AGFhV0z.jpg