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  #1  
Old 05-03-2018, 11:25 PM
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W123 Lower Control Arm Eccentric Bolt position: does it matter?

I am slowly working my way through a front-end rebuild on my 83 300TD. I have reinstalled the lower control arm, upper control arms, and spring on the left (driver's) side.

When I removed the eccentric bolt on the right (passenger's) side the nut was on the front and I realized that I had put the nut on the back when I installed it on the driver's side (Oh **** -- how did I do that?). I can't remember which way it was installed originally so I can safely assume I screwed up.

So, my question is: does this matter? Both the bolt end and the nut end have the eccentric plate so I am thinking it doesn't. Plus, I don't want to compress the spring again and remove the bolt and turn it around (and replace the new lock nut) unless I really need to.

Thanks,

Jim

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  #2  
Old 05-04-2018, 12:30 AM
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I took some measures to be sure mine went in the same way, but in hindsight, I can't see why it might matter.
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:53 AM
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I don't believe it matters but you will still need to have it aligned or do that yourself. However, there is going to be one of the pisitons where it is easier to get at the nut to torqe it and remember you can't rotate the Bolt because that changes you adjustment.

The bushings upper and lower needed to have been properly index when they were installed into the arms and even then if you marked the eccentric bolt it will need to be aligned.

While the eccentric bolt adjustment is for the chamber adjusting that effects the Caster. Adjusting Caster by lengthening or shortening the Guide Rod is supposed to be the Caster adjustment but in fact doing that effects the chamber.

When the eccentric bolts and the upper control arm bolts are torqued the Car needing to be as level as you can get it and all 4 wheels with the weight of the car on the ground. If you cannot squeeze under the Car to do that put the Car up with the same sized blocks under each wheel.

The torque in the eccentric blot nut is high.

On the control arms when you tighten the Nuts you are rendering the central portion of the rubber bushing stationary. That means when the control arms pivot up or down it is on the elasticity flexing of the rubber.

Which is why you want to torque level and with the weight of the car on the wheels. When you do that you are in a neutral position with no flexing of the rubber bushing because you have not tightened to trap that central portion of the bushing.
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:05 AM
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I would put the nut on the aft side, since that will better protect the threads from corrosion. You'll need a wrench on both sides when tightening it. You must hold the bolt head to maintain the adjustment. You adjust it to get the desired camber. It isn't super-critical. Many people like more negative camber than factory (top of tires leaning inward) since that gives better cornering. IndyCars are extreme (Google Images). Most important is setting the toe-in. You can wear out the tires in 100 mi if way off, plus car may wander. You can eye-ball it with a straight-edge (hold on front tire, view at rear tire), or get it as close as a shop using a tape-measure. I suggest getting it close before driving to a shop.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:53 PM
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I read where someone intentionally put it 1 way or the other for ease of access but don't remember the details. It won't affect the alignment.
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  #6  
Old 05-06-2018, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
I read where someone intentionally put it 1 way or the other for ease of access but don't remember the details. It won't affect the alignment.
I may be wrong but I think this is on the upper control arm bushing/bolt. I kind of recall pushing the bolt through front to back or back to front being easier given access issues. It has been awhile.

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