240D dumped its coolant, belts slack - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #21 06-10-2018, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I am surprised this question was even asked! On a critical torque operation such as this, removing the condenser/ radiator so you have room for the critical torque procedure is a must do, instead of shortcuts and working blindly. Maybe the ones with the sheared pulley bolts have been done with shortcuts / doing it blindly?

If the threads are clean with no trace of rust or anti-seize (which should not be there in the first place), then no chasing with a tap should be preformed. Chasing will invariably make the bolt/ thread fit looser than it was- you don't want that. Just spray it with brake clean before applying Loctite.

Note the person said retorquing. Not extracting sheared bolts or doing a repair right.

If this has a root cause, which is not fixed by doing it once (I.e. One would want to do it for peace of mind), having to take that many steps turns into a hassle, which means it won't get done.

Having something with cured loctite means to me that threads would not be the same as if it was metal to metal only.

Fixing it the right way the first time, sure. Remove the stuff. On mine I was pulling the compressor anyway. If one is not, evacuating to pull the condenser on an R12 system is a pricy proposition.

And if even loctite red won't give peace of mind due to the consistent vibration and thermal cycling on this part, then a routine torque check may be prudent. If that's the case, removing a ton of stuff is impractical.

Mine went at 70k. That means that a 60k-ish retorque may be prudent if we don't know otherwise about the true cause. Removing everything to do that just isn't practical.

And the context I was stating was for re-checking. I'm surprised you would think anyone wouldn't do the most rigorous processs possible after a failure.