Spent some time in the woods this past weekend, and a friendly forest ranger reminded me that all vehicles must have either stock exhaust, or a spark arrestor. As my truck obviously does not have a stock exhaust, next time she sees it in the woods it needs to have a spark arrestor.

Anyone have experience with add-on spark arrestors? All I'm finding are little ones for motorcycles, or huge muffler/spark arrestor combos costing a bundle and more suited to a 400hp excavator tractor.

I need the Goldilocks spark arrestor. Needs to be USFS approved and fit 2.25" exhaust pipe. Bigger would be fine, I can make that work. Hopefully cheap too, as this'll get used maybe a couple weeks a year.

Ideas?

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

First, pull the rules to see exactly what they are / what approval stamp is required.

How " unstock " is your exhaust and how did they figure out you were non stock ? If too loud gave you away, a quiet muffler should keep them at bay. ( Like a second one added near end of exhaust that is removable )

I'd have a look at medium sized generator makers / marine applications.

Cowl ( Phillips and Temro industries ) makes spark arrestors in various sizes, maybe something will pop up on e bay. They also make spiral mufflers, Ive used them in 4" sizes on some equipment.

http://www.merequipment.com/pdfs/SSUE%20Spark%20Arrestors.pdf

As a side note, I've recently found that the massive western fires are the unintended consequence of not having occasional smaller fires. In the past, underbrush was quickly burned off leaving larger trees intact. Now that the small fires are few, underbrush builds and when it gets going, it consumes larger trees making it more difficult to stop.

( The guy has a British accent so it has to be true right? )
6:24 Number 6
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLdmvZbXzo4

Yeah I pulled the regs. She not only had me dead to rights on the spark arrestor, she could have written me for it right then and there and sent me out of the woods, and also written me for a noise violation as well. Thankful on that, and actually appreciate the line she drew between harmful and not, and the discretion she showed.

Exhaust is straight pipe from the turbo to the tip, no muffler at all. The turbo would possibly qualify as a spark arrestor, but wastegated turbos allow exhaust to bypass the turbine and therefor do not qualify. I don't plan to install a muffler until made to do so. The truck's quite distinctive, if/when she sees it again she'll be checking for a spark arrestor.

Thanks for the sourcing tips, I'll be looking into them. I found some clamp on mesh spark arrestors for John Deere Gators and such for relatively inexpensive, but only up to 1.5" exhaust. Rather than sort through 40 JD spark arrestor PN's looking for something 2.25" or bigger, I'll call a JD dealer and have them figure it out.

I've read about the many small fires preventing a buildup of fuel and therefor a completely devastating fire. It was even worse than a natural forest with years of built up fuel in some of the areas we were in, as the area had been logged and there was nothing but bone dry slash piles all over the place and no greenery at all. We'd brought a shovel and fire extinguisher and water(probably part of why I got a warning vs. a ticket right then and there), but never even thought of the exhaust system on the truck.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

That's kind of a give away.

As a side note, a couple of state police I've worked tell me they build a profile of the driver when looking at what others drive. Loud exhaust is a data point however dark tinted driver / passenger windows or a license plate hider scream " pull me over, I'm a $#@(*&@# and hiding something" . . . And this is coming from cops that are car guys. Stop by most any weight lifting gym to see many examples.


Spark arrestors use a trap to capture the particles and a final screen to prevent their escape. Any real spark arrestor will have a drain plug for servicing.


How do you use the truck in the woods? If the 1.5 " mesh is approved, it would offer sound reduction and not affect power much / at all at lower speeds.

The JD one might be part of an approved system where ,if used with the JD muffler, the addition of a screen completes the system so it might not be legal. If the stock muffler has a drain plug, it is part of a system.

There should be a testing procedure to determine what constitutes a spark arrestor, I'd have a look at that.

Diesels generally do not produce "sparks". I would check your local regs.

I don’t know how plentiful 300d’s are in the junkyard, but could you get the muffler and resonator at a junkyard and clamp them on as a stack coming up from the tip just for areas where required?

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'83 300D turbo diesel (334k daily commuter)
SOLD '80 240D 4 speed manual, #2 piston pitted from crushing a 10mm nut. Running it 'till it burns through.
'78 F-150 300cid 4spd od (with my great unkle's original sales receipt)
SOLD '66 Ford P-350 delivery truck (almost driveable)
'49 Dodge B1D (1 ton Pilothouse era truck) not running but all there, candidate for om617 and 4x4 conversion when money permits.

Absolutely a profile is built, and rightly so. People say a lot about themselves by how they choose to portray themselves to the world, both in personal appearance and vehicle. My truck isn't the douchebag brodozer, just a slightly redneck work truck.

Edit: Photo attached.


Indeed, part of the required design is that the spark arrestor be easily serviceable and cleanable.



Usually getting to/from camping spots and such. Usually you're right that's low output, sometimes it requires some power. Looks like the 1.5" diameter screen would have ~1/3rd the area of my 2.25" pipe. You're right at lower speeds and outputs it would probably be fine, but if that turns out to be the only option then I'll just spend the money on the larger spark arrestor.

Very valid point. I have no clue on the stock muffler for JD Gators and tractors and such.

It's an inspection for a "stock" exhaust system, or stick a 1/8" rod up the exhaust pipe and see how far it goes. Rod goes in a couple inches before being stopped by a screen + "USFS Certified per 5300IB" or whatever printed on the muffler or spark arrestor and considered good.

I'm kinda stuck two different ways. When on a forest road, it's a road vehicle and needs the stock exhaust OR a spark arrestor. When off road(where she caught me), it's a class II ATV and needs a spark arrestor, period. Whether that's built into the factory exhaust or something that's added afterwards, it needs a spark arrestor.

I checked the regs. She not only had me dead to rights, she was pretty lenient.

That might be an option for the on-road stuff. Good idea, thank you.

Thanks for the input, folks. Kind of a mess. We've had a pretty brutal couple of fire seasons here and everyone's rightly on edge. During the rainy season, I doubt any of this will ever come up.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I would not call that red neck, I call it a clean working truck that appears to be usable. Red neck would be rear window sticker bombed with rebel flag, under armor / mossy oak and Calvin peeing on something. The only thing I see hanging off the trailer hitch is a light plug so extra good points there.

Now, if you have a 'Commie flag tacked up on the wall inside your garage, that might change things. ( I'd have to call home and ask your wife. )


I'd be tempted to stack a couple of exhaust adapters together just to see how much flow / power is affected.

I'm not sure how much noise reduction is offered by a plain spark arrestor unit so you still might need to add a muffler. Something that bills it's self as a " spark arresting muffler " would fit the bill.


Given an on road vehicle needs a spark arrestor when off road, an off road store should have something. This is exactly why I suggested that the regs be pulled. With that bit of info, you are not breaking new ground here and someone has to make an add on arrestor for small trucks.

Perhaps digging around a camping / off road forum would turn up something.

To address another post:

The issue isn't gasoline, propane or diesel fuel / spark or compression ignition. What happens is carbon builds up inside the exhaust system, breaks loose and is glowing red as it exits the exhaust pipe.

From what I know the install regs to be, the spark arrestor unit ( spark trap ) needs to be post muffler and as near to the end of exhaust as possible. A screen needs to be at the end to pipe to catch any stray carbon that got past the arrestor unit. ( As you stated )

Nope, no Yeti stickers or camo anything. Sure as hell no truck nuts.

Offroad store is a damned good idea.

Research continues as I have time/inclination, but this is the current plan:

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-21579-Exhaust-Muffler-Arrestor/dp/B0015KW8W2

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Yep, this is likely why you just got a warning.


Given the cost and availability this looks like a winner.

Rock is showing 21579 for 67 + shipping.

On the Amazon site, it shows a Super Trap type disc muffler / arrestor from Empi but it does not state USFS approved.

https://www.amazon.com/Spark-Arrestor-STAINLESS-Muffler-Mount/dp/B003LIZA4Y/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LIZA4Y&pd_rd_r=c8f4eaff-afdc-11e8-96dd-777fa7fb2507&pd_rd_w=vyx1M&pd_rd_wg=kPuxg&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=AC32YYR8KP03EJ2FA46Z&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=AC32YYR8KP03EJ2FA46Z&dpID=41Ea5fdO0pL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

And look at this screen shot from my link, yep, this proves it can fix / make everything.

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Yep. We were also polite and respectful, and had all the other recommended fire equipment on hand.

I agree, as close to a silver bullet as I'm going to find. Won't find easier to install or better rated for the intended purpose. Might find cheaper but I'm not spending two hours looking to save ten bucks.

I'd looked at the Supertrapp mufflers. Didn't see anything I cared for, and definitely nothing better than the 21579.

Duct tape spark arrestor! Solved!

Thanks!

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Hah! "Now you tip your hat to this lady, son" and when I did all that hair fell out from underneath.

Charlie Daniels- "Uneasy Rider", that's a blast from the past.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Possibly put on a Y and use two smaller devices.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Got the spark arrestor in and installed. Doesn't look great but not too terrible either, matches the "functional and not beautiful" demeanor of the truck. Sounds OK, got a bit of a burble to it.

For normal daily driving I'll probably pull the spark arrestor off and replace it with just a chunk of tailpipe. Haven't test driven it yet, if it doesn't restrict things too badly I may just leave it on all the time.

Tested a Flowmaster 40 series that I had laying around, just for grins. It was very restrictive and surprisingly quiet. If one just wanted quiet, this might work, but the engine lost all it's pep and blew a lot more smoke. Turbo took a lot longer to start boosting. Not recommended.

After building this truck on gravel under a carport that's open on all sides, I very much appreciate my nice enclosed insulated shop. Lots of light, heat if I want it, tunes. Concrete floor that I can use a creeper on. Started raining outside and all it did was make me grin, inside and comfy.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Yea!

Keep an eye on the exhaust hangers, that type tends to tear out because the rubber is too short making everything too stiff.

It may be helpful to leave the upper bolt loose and double nut it for some flexibility.

I use the type with long rubber and no steel on top. With the long rubber type, use a plate on both sides of the rubber not just a washer as this captures the rubber relieving load on the bolt hole.

Given you are in Oregon, have a look at this guys beach towing vids on You tube. Hill Auto Body & Towing