My pump from Goren (Dieselmeken) was bolt-n-go. Sorry you're having issues but I'm sure he'll make it right. My interactions with him have been excellent.
Dan

By no means am I assuming his pump is bad. I hope I am not coming across like that. I feel like I am simply missing something. I am in communication with him via email but time zone differences make that hard to respond right away.

When you set your pump up did you follow the 22 degrees BTDC like in his card that was attached to the pump? I set the crank markings to as close to 22 degrees as I could. I checked that the cam lobes were facing upward. Then I ensured the pump sprocket had the large section on the sprocket lined up with the mark on the pump housing. I slid it all together making sure that I did not accidentally turn the sprocket. I primed the pump, attempted to bleed the lines and I am getting nowhere.

As stated before I did have the one banjo bolt incorrect and I don't think that helped me. But at this point I would have thought it would fire up. Also I have been using a five gallon diesel can with a submerged supply and return line while experimenting. I have the vacuum shutoff line disconnected from the pump. I can get the motor to start and run rough for a few seconds, then it dies off. After it dies off it is incredibly difficult to get started again as it appears to have air in the lines at the injectors.

Do any of the supply side banjo bolts have a restrictor / check valve in them?

Is there a pressure relief / check valve in the return side banjo bolt of this pump?

I'd bypass the lift pump for now and use the electric pump.

Pump timing isn't an issue since the motor runs for a while.

Post some detailed pics of the injection pump hosing.

Maybe your pump core came from one of the mismarked IP's?

Read this thread:
removing injector pump OM617

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Have you pulled the return line out of the can and verified that you have fuel pulsing out of the return line when the engine does manage to idle?

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

To answer your question there is a special banjo bolt on the return side of the pump (on the side facing the block, back by the cylinder five port). The supply banjo is normal and does not have a check/relief valve in it. I bypassed the lift pump and there was no difference. I installed another working lift pump unit and it has at least stopped bubbling when priming, unlike the old one. I would agree about timing although I could be incorrect. When it runs it purrs. It sounds great. Then it falls flat on its face and is a real pain to get started again. The one thing I notice is everytime before it shuts down the turbo starts to whistle. No idea how that could be related but I am just throwing it out there. One side note: I pulled the cylinder one element out of the pump again and applied vacuum to the shutoff while looking into the cylinder one port. I could see the plunger (or whatever its called) rotating with applied vacuum and returning to original position when I cut the vacuum which to me signifies the rack is free. Grabbing straws there, let me know what you think. Here are a few pictures for reference:







It is hard to see but the black fuel line on the return banjo as well as the supply for the pump run to a diesel can beside my jeep. Fuel feeds into Firewall side of lift pump, then into the larger banjo supply at fuel filter, then the smaller line (outlet, clear line) runs to closest banjo opposite the block, returns through special banjo on block side of pump and back to the filter housing.


Here is a video of it doing its thing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-IcRQhD26w&feature=youtu.be

In this video I played with the throttle some to show it does now respond. That being said, it will cut out like this with or without throttle input.

Your post 24 says it won't run with the intercooler piping off. Have you disconnected at the intake manifold? And looked in? It looks like the intake manifold was modified. Any chance there is still EGR entering the intake?

It is really sounding like an air supply or exhaust restriction.

I will pull the intake and exhaust manifold off as that is a simple task. P/O ported the head intake and exhaust ports so my next concern is that he went to far and possibly exhaust gas is entering the intake. Maybe the gasket isn't sealing properly.. I will dig into it and let you know what I find.

Video is unavailable...

You should be safe, I didn't go super crazy on the ports since I don't have an ultrasonic tester (Stock valves were re-used).

#1-is the pump timing mark correct (points toward a mounting bolt)

What are the chances that you're overfueling, stalling, and then having trouble restarting because it's flooded? The turbo spooling might be explained by excessive fueling.

What's your idle RPM, and what did Goran reccomend? Have you messed with the external ALDA?

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I know what you mean about the timing mark and the bolts. I just read a post about that...interesting. I believe it is in line with the bolt. I have a guy I was just introduced to in northern PA who has been rebuilding diesel injector pumps for over 20 years at a performance diesel shop. He is coming down hopefully this weekend to help me out. I am very confident in the timing even though it is heavily smoking. I do believe it has too much fuel at first startup but the smoke does clear up after it idles a little. I am fairly confident the excessive smoke will disappear after it is up to temp. It is my understanding that the rack supplies full fuel at startup and the governer takes over and brings the rack back to the idle setting. he mentioned that my idle setting might be too low and allowing the rack to completely shut fuel down which would explain why when I let it start and then idle it eventually shuts off.

Goran has just been giving me things to check and I am checking them off the list as soon as he gives them to me.

Sounds like a plan. You've got my number if there's anything we can help with. I want to see that Jeep flying!

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Overfueling a diesel when it isn't loaded = High RPM / run away.

Liquid fuel in the cylinders of a diesel = higher compression / more heat / better cold start. Have a look at a Yanmar L series single cylinder diesel manual. Some have a port leading to the intake manifold where you dump in a small amount of motor oil for better cold starting. This effect is why using " add oil to check for low compression due to worn rings" is folly.

https://www.nuvair.com/manuals/Yanmar-LV-100-Use-Manual.pdf

Page 61 on the Pdf viewer / 45 in the manual .

You seem like you have a lot of knowledge around these motors so let me post a question: Is it possible that the stock fuel pump for the cherokee (in tank electronic) is supplying too much fuel flow through the IP? I noticed when I run the electronic pump it makes the manual hand primer pump wonky. When I have the fuel pump off the hand pump does not draw fuel from the tank when pressed. I believe the cherokee in tank pump will not allow fuel to be drawn through it when the power is killed. In my mind that was no big deal as I simply bypassed the hand primer pump.

Does anyone know what incoming pressure the IP should have supplied to it? Also is it possible that O rings in the filter housing could be making my life miserable? If the main bolt o rings are shot it looks like pressurized fuel could flow the wrong direction through the returns. Does anyone have any insight here? The O rings didnt look healthy so I plan on getting new ones tonight. My next plan is to actually eliminate the returns from the filter housing. I have some Tee fittings and I would like to make it so fuel that is returning does not feed the filter but instead feeds the fuel tank. My other diesels were like this with mechanical IP's.

Here was my ideal setup and I would like feedback if possible:



I feel like bypassing the manual hand primer is my best solution. The only other thing I thought could work is feeding the electric pump to the hand primer but a few inches before the primer have a Tee fitting. The leg off this T fitting would have a check valve and would be tied into the return lines. Essentially if the fuel coming to the hand primer meets resistance it would flow through the check valve and back to the tank. Fuel flowing through the return would not be able to back feed as the Check valve would protect from that.

I was ideally trying to keep BOTH the electronic pump AND hand pump as I see benefits to both but it seems like using the two in tandem is really messing me up and not letting me actually bleed air from the system. Let me know what you all think.

To give everyone an update I swapped the stock fuel pump back onto the jeep, timed it at 26 Degrees BTDC and I am experiencing the same issues as the DM pump. To me that signifies that my fuel system is the source of the problem, not the DieselMeken pump. That is good news for me, and of course bad news lol. I knew this project would be difficult but admittedly I figured starting the motor would be the easiest part. Turns out, while not easy at all, Fitting the motor, fabricating brackets, making the CNC parts, was all the easiest part. Side note: fitting one of these motors into a cherokee is not easy and I am excited to do a full writeup once I actually get this thing running.

Running around flailing arms in the air like a nutter and swapping IP's every 5 seconds is gonna get you nowhere.

Since you have the stock IP installed presently, run it from a damn bucket. If it runs from the bucket, but doesn't run from your fuel system in the truck, you can figure it's your fuel system. If it doesn't, you need to figure out why.

The return line from the fuel filter housing is important. It has a tiny bleed hole in it and helps to purge air from the filter housing.

The operating pressure with the lift pump supplying the fuel rack is 10-15PSI. The pressure is regulated by the banjo bolt with the spring and ball bearing in it on the backside of the IP.

You've done enough redesigning, take it back as close to stock as you can get it since you know it ran that way before you touched it. Make it run that way, then start changing things ONE AT A TIME until you find the thing that stops it running.

Troubleshooting by panicking, throwing parts at a problem, and randomly swapping things out never solved a problem. If by some magical chance it did, it was pure luck.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)