om617 still smokes after injector replacement
 

hi, I replaced my injectors due black/white smoke on idle and huge vibration on idle..

Now it smokes on idle a lot less but, still a little.

Vibration almost gone.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/uKllm1.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/MIkTXr.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...923/MnhBoi.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...924/IAJSOf.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...921/O5VlWZ.jpg

--------

HG been tested no leaks/ head ok no cracks.

Valves adjusted.

chain stretch been measured is within tolerance.

Glow loop spirals not replaced yet

fuel pump not yet adjusted.

algae has been in the fuel tank will replace with a bigger and cleaner fuel tank.

You mention fuel pump not adjusted yet. It should be checked of course and may or may not need adjustment. Injection pump being the fuel pump of course. There are several reasons it may not be timed correctly. It is a common culprit to make smoke.

That is the earlier engine. Find the line from the vacuum pump to the intake. If there is any oil in it can produce this effect. Oil would be getting by the diaphram in the vacuum pump. You may have a later engine where the line goes back to the engine block. This cannot create that issue. I often wondered why they did not just let the line vent to the atmosphere. In service it just provides an equalizing effect for the movement of the diaphram on the non working side. Of the vacuum pump diaphram mostly. This is a bit of a long shot but not totally uncommon either.

How is your air cleaner? Really dirty can make smoke and hurt fuel milage. When I have a suspect air cleaner I just remove the filter temporarily for a test. If a visual examination is not adequate.

First of all there are variouis ways to determine if the smoke is unburnt fuel or base oil. A lot of owners run their engines at the half way point between the marks on the dipstick. Otherwise they found the oil level fell fast until it reached that approximate suggested area of the dipstick. Probably not all of their diesel engines of this era do this. Yet many seem to after an oil change for example.

Compression test hasn't been mentioned here. Properly adjusted valves are one thing, a worn out engine or tuliped valves are another. If you're low on compression or have a worn engine, even perfect injectors, timing, and valves won't alleviate rough starts or smoke.

I have an early engine it has the old style roller bearing diaphragm. I want to refurbish this vacuum pump as the seal leaks out oil.

My airfilter is just 30miles old. Engine is fine start immediately and shut off kicks good back.

Will do the timing.

How to do the timing? any fsm?

IP Timing
 

There are dozens of posts, take some time and read a bunch, it's scary until you do it, then like everything else it's pretty simple, just don't get creative .

You'll need to make up a drip tube .

I am assuming you are asking for info on your W123 1979 300D...right?
(It is helpful to provide vehicle info as part of the question.):)

Direct links to the Disc 1 and Disc 2 of the free MBUSA W123 FSM:
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/program/matrix6.htm
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/matrix6.htm


Disc 2, Engine Manual, Section 07.1 is the Diesel Injection system section.:)

The drip test might be necessary

But first I'd check the camshaft timing because if that is out then you'll automatically change the position of the IP (because it is connected via the timing device) which might put things back to how they were.

The so called 2mm lift test is described in the FSM here =>

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/05-215.pdf

There are also two explanations in the old peach parts wiki here =>

PeachPartsWiki: Camshaft Woodruff (offset) Key install

PeachPartsWiki: Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

Do not be tempted to do a visual check between the camshaft notch and the pulley - this is notoriously unreliable - the 2mm lift test is THE test to be done!

########

I expect this will help with your starting troubles too and perhaps stop your love of messing about with glow plugs!

########

As for the FSM some people have flash problems with the startek site for that reason I listed a whole load of OM617a direct PDF links here =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/310495-mercedes-startek-have-done-right-thing-help-you-do-right-thing-5.html

Begins at post #68

Oh - hang about - have you got an OM617 or OM617a? Turbo or non turbo?

Non turbo has different timing so you need to get that data - I can post that if you can't find it yourself

run it for 10 minutes at over 100 mph,always made mine run better

haha, non turbo. Blows white smoke (unburnt diesel not HG). Temprature 175F

Still haven't tested compression apparently.

Shake + white smoke = combustion problems and/or compression issues.

What pop pressure are your new injectors? Balanced?

Link is working but, as soon as I click on the sub tabs it says document not found.

See post #8


Two alternatives for you there!

The info on the startekinfo site is not accessible on all devices nor by all web browsers.

AKAIK, the site was designed with computer access via the Microsoft Internet Explorer (IE) browser in mind.

Smart phones also have issues connecting to the info on the submenus
I usually connect with the Chrome browser with my desktop computer.
The Adobe Flash plug in needs to be active.

BUT, if I want to use the embeded links in the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual),
I HAVE to open the url link with IE.