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#1
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Bluetec No Start
2009 E320 Bluetec with 98,000 miles. A few weeks ago, I pressed the Start Button and the engine cranked on and on but didn't start. I pressed the button again and cranking stopped. Pressed the button again and it started normally. Been working fine every time until today. Again, it cranked but didn't start. Stopped the cranking and tried again and it started normally. Is this a known problem? Any ideas? I don't want this to strand me away from home.
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#2
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You are driving a server room of computers on 4 wheels. You need to see what the computers are seeing during the start sequence. Either get a reader that can talk to the computers or get it to a dealer for diagnosis. $200 diagnosis will be money well spent.
It could be a fuel filter, a fuel injector return circuit stuck open, crank position sensor, fuel pressure relief valve... so many things that you do not want to start replacing if they are not the problem.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#3
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The most common problem on that car is the low pressure fuel pump located in the tank. An old-school analog ammeter will be helpful if you have one. Connect it in series and repeatedly crank the engine. When it fails to start it should peg the needle on the meter, otherwise it'll draw about 10A...........
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#4
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I took the car to the dealer to learn what is causing the random no-start problem. I parked the car in the parking lot and went inside to the service manager. He went out to drive my car into the shop and it wouldn't start for him --- just cranked on and on. He tried a second time and it started as usual. He experienced my exact problem. They had the car for three days and found no reason for the random problem. There were no codes in the computer. I guess I will just have to live with the problem which is okay unless there is a complete failure in the future.
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#5
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Quote:
Find a competent mechanic and get this fixed. Eventually it won't start at all. It's a $17 part.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#6
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I remember when electronic ignition replaced points.Alot of us did not trust it,Ford,and GM with modulator problems,and mopar with transistors.
Wished old tech could be brought back,but with cleaner fuels
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#7
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#8
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Not starter coils starting to go bad?
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-- Chris '95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer '05 E320 CDI, 138k miles '07 S550 4matic, 69k miles Gone but not forgotten: '76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995 '75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991 |
#9
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If this was a gas powered vehicle I’d agree but I’m still going with the low pressure pump being the culprit.............I’ve seen this happen MANY times......
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#10
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My W210 with the OM606 had an intermittent crank sensor. Drove me crazy until I figured it out.
W210 CAN bus issues On my W164 with OM642 it gave a code for camshaft sensor trouble OM 642 camshaft position sensor replacement
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#11
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And cranking with no codes? I imagine there would at least be some power loss when it's running.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#12
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If you have a diesel W210 I would proactively replace this sensor, it is almost $100 at the dealer (sorry tjts1 it is not $17). I highly recommend you get a genuine Mercedes from the dealer, read my saga in that thread with a Bosch sensor one digit off from the MB original that refused to work. The car will just die with no warning when it decides to fail on you. On the OM642 it never died on us (this was when my wife was still driving it) but the performance started degrading and then we got a CE light. The code came back for cam position sensor and I was able to swap it out before it totally failed. The difference between the OM606 and OM642 sensors is that the OM606 sensor is just a dumb inductive coil and it either works or it doesn’t. The OM642 sensor has internal intelligence and can report back that the performance is degrading. Both of these though can suffer a failure that is a physical break in an internal connection that can be intermittent at first, is usually temperature related, and can heal back upon cooling. That is the failure mode I experienced on the OM606 sensor. I am really surprised the OP is not getting any codes for this issue. These cars know if you farted in the seat if you hook them up to Xentry.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#13
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If the pump quits while the engine is running it'll throw codes for low rail pressure. I've seen lots of crank no-starts due to faulty pumps with no codes stored. FWIW, the majority of cases I've seen have been on ML/GL's, but since it's so easy to diagnose it only makes sense to check the pump first...... |
#14
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Quote:
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#15
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The no-start problem is getting worse. In the past, when the engine failed to start, it would start normally on the second try. I drove the car 440 miles yesterday. It failed to start after a 10 minute stop at a rest area. It took three tries before it started. This happened many times during the day. If the car sat for several hours, it started normally. If I tried to restart it immediately after turning it off, it took three tries to make it go. I don't know what is magic about the third try. Running performance seems to be OK. Lots of power, no missing, 36 mpg running at 70 mph. it is going back to the dealer for another attempt. (Sometimes a random problem has to deteriorate to the point where it becomes a routine problem)
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