Anybody have this and want to rent or sell?

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

ebay?

Is it by any chance similar to this one?

PeachPartsWiki: Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement

(Could be wrong but if not...)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If it's for your '86 W126, a straightened "Jumbo" paperclip works fine. If it doesn't want to go all the way down in to the hole, try filing an angle on the tip.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

The paper clip is the cheapest and quickest way to go. I've never heard of anyone buying more than a paper clip.

This is a tough experience the first time you do it. It takes some 'feel,' and the holes vary slightly from one ignition to another.

My advise is to look in the hole in the face of the tumblers and locate the exact hole in the releasing pin. Seeing that hole is tough but it will save you from poking around in the dark.

As Diseasel 300 stated a slight angle on the tip of the clip will make it a bit easier to slide in beside the release mechanism. When you get that taper in the right spot you can then rotate the clip so that the rounded edge is toward the release mechanism.

After you've done this once it becomes a bit easier. The problem with that is these ignitions last long enough for you to lose the clip then forget everything you learned about it. That's why these threads concerning various small projects are always available by using the search function on this website.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

All good information to see/hear, the link to the PeachParts wiki very good, I'm also going to put in new tumblers but the tool I refer to is for installing the electrical switch behind the tumblers. Here's the tool, two parts actually, a bit of the pic of the switch still in the cropped photo. Apparently this enables you to install the switch w/o removing the entire assembly. I gather this avoids issues with the steering wheel lock going out of kilter in the process. I've removed tumblers on other vehicles with the paper clip method, not that I want to get over-confident on this one. I could get the tool if I buy the package of instructions and switch but I already bought the switch elsewhere and if I don't use it I'll save it for the next 20 years.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Make the tool using a wire coat hanger. I've found the paperclips don't work as well..........

I'm finding a bunch of those blue sleeve thingies for removing the protective ring, but seems it's for later models.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

The tool in that picture looks very much like a small offset ratcheting screwdriver? Should be easily obtained at any SEARS store and probably lots of other places that sell auto tools.

In order for the switch to be R&R'd the ignition key must be turned to the "1" position first. Only in that position is the keyed shaft of the ignition lock aligned to allow its disconnection from the electrical switch potion. The screws that fasten the switch to the body of the ignition lock are blocked and hidden with the wiring connector in place.

Get the ignition lock in the correct position and then unplug the electrical connector at the rear of the steering lock mechanism, that will allow you to access the three screws inside the electrical contactor. With the screws out the electrical contactor can be pulled off the locking mechanism.

Put the new contactor into place, reinstall the three screws and plug the connector onto its backside.

When people are forced to remove the entire lock mechanism most often because the lock tumbler has failed and the ignition can not be rotated to position"1"(preventing the disconnect and removal of the electrical connector without breaking the keyed shaft of the lock mechanism": after the entire mechanism is removed a Dremel tool with a an abrasive blade can be used to cut through the white metal side of the electrical contactor body and at the same time the three securing screws in order to get things fully apart.

As far as the wire tool used to release the tumbler, having the wire straight without any bends makes it easier to get to the bottom of the holes, the FSM diagram shows a bevel end on each wire, and a wire dia. of 1 mm if I remember correctly. I've found that stainless steel kitchen whips often have the perfect gauge wire plus you get plenty of it.Using something less than ideal can sometimes end up being a long frustrating task. Having a relaxed attitude to start with will help. Sometimes it can take quite a while to get things to line up properly in order work.

If necessary you can get things apart and then attach the electrical contactor to the electrical wiring connector. leave it hanging under the dash and use a flat blade screw driver to turn the switch contactor to start and run the car if you can't button everything up completely at first.

Harbor Freight has that for five bucks. It's saved me a lot of grief. I also found a small wheel which serves as a nut driver and goes where no man has gone before. Those trinket tools are priceless when you need one.

The problem is they are so cheap you can't keep up with them.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I couldn't make a coat hanger or paper clip work on my w124. I found a bicycle spoke, with the ends cut at a 45* angle worked perfectly.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Just like if6was9 says above, be careful disconnecting the plug and place it out of the way. Sometimes all the wires come out of the connector due to the limited space.

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

It does look like that all right. When he says 'special tool' my mind goes to something he made. Could be the bit that is shown with it is somewhat fabbed.

Thanks for the other stuff as well. I want to do this w/o drama, no smacking of the forehead with "Huh!? Oh NOOoooo ...."

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Be careful,I had the plastic plug,fall apart,wires went everywhere.Took weeks to figure out where wires went.Had to superglue gel them,plus tape with super glue.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

It took me weeks to be comfortable enough with the FSM drawings to wire a lot of things on my project car. I stripped some of the diesel wiring from the SD and installed them in the same paths in the SE body so that the wiring would be consistent with the drawings.

Of the two things which made me most nervous on this project the wiring and differential yoke change gave me most pause.

The electrical plug on the ignition should have numbers which are represented well in the technical drawings of the service manual. Is the location of that plug what makes it so difficult?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic