The Blue bottle I bought at Walmart for $5+ and the Yellow bottle at Advanced Auto for $11+. Blue says, "auto transmission slip-stop & leak fix." On the back it says,"for larger transmissions, 10 quart or more, use 2 bottles. The Yellow says, "high mileage 75K auto transmission treatment." On the back it says, "One bottle treats 9 quarts of ATF."

The blue bottle is primarily a stop-leak. The yellow bottle is essentially a concentrated detergent to help break up varnish and sludge. Go with the yellow if you're trying to help shifting issues.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Most important is what problem are you trying to fix?

There is no such thing as mechanic in a bottle.

Thsnk you for explaining the differences ! .

I've used the yellow bottle to good effect, it slowed the weepy input seal way down too .

Yes, Mechanic in a bottle is a suspect thing but sometimes chemicals can help .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Diesel Purge?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Amongst other good chemicals, some are not capable of learning new things sad to say .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Snake oil. It seems most people who have problems that it purposes to clear up don't have the problems resolved by it. Just a great way to blow $15 and an hour or two of your time IMHO.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

So then, it's a good idea to leave accumulated crud in the I.P. and Ma 'Benz doesn't know how to properly maintain Diesel engines ? .

Seems odd to me .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

About a year ago my SDL suffered severe power loss, it wouldn't even go over 80mph, or over 3500rpm under load.

Then it became hard to keep the engine running on cold starts, as soon as the power steering pump put load on the engine it would die.
Eventually my SDL REFUSED to go over 30mph foot to the foor.


Brother gave it two bottles of diesel purge and it made a full recovery that day, and no he did not change the fuel filter till a few days later.


I believe it is a wonderful product.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Stop leak is basically brake fluid. Brake fluid will swell rubber not rated for BF.

The problem is stop leak swells all rubber in the trans including clutch drum seals. As the seals swell, the pistons stick in their bores causing clutches to drag. This causes excess wear and eventually transmission failure.

Right ;

MB doesn't approve of Moly Diesel Purge products,. nor cirtic acid cleaning of the cooling systems, so forth and so on .

The point of these forums is to learn I'm not going to read for you if you're unwilling to do basic research .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You made the claim that it's in the MB publications. Back it up. If you're right, it should be easy. I'll wait.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

The original poster never said what problem he was trying to fix. If it is a sticky valve body, pull it and soak in mineral spirits / cycle the valves / look for broken springs. ( This is assuming that there are no rubber parts in the valve body. )

There are few chemical additives that actually work.

Techron fuel cleaner is one for gas engines to remove carbon on the backs if intake valves. BMW had / has a huge problem with this and recommends this as a first step, step 2 is walnut shell blasting.

Bars Leaks tablets for cooling systems. This is great for seepy leaks, is stealth and won't clog a heater core / rad if it is any decent condition. It was even required by GM for the 80's HT4100 aluminum V8. This is also sold under the GM / AC Delco brand and probably other car makers. It is basically Ginger, a old farmers trick.

I've used Power Service diesel cleaner on some industrial diesels. I can't say that it helped to any great degree other than control sludge.