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  #1  
Old 03-23-2019, 04:20 AM
Father Of Giants's Avatar
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How to prime OM606 after delivery valve seals and fuel line O ring replacement?

I plan on doing delivery valves once I buy some more O rings for the fuel filter housing and pre filter.

Supposedly, the best way to prime the fuel system is to use a mityvac with the brake bleader attachment to the fuel filter housing. But which hose do I connect to?

Would help a lot. I don't want to strain my battery and starter.

Two additional questions, I know use of ether or any other starting fluid will damage a diesel engine, is there some sort of sprayer I can use to spray atomized diesel fuel into the intake manifold?
Also, since the injection pump is electronically actuated, it is possible to bypass it and force a wide open INPUT? Depending on it's polarity for operation, it either needs a power or ground. This should help the first start tremendously.

P.S. Before I even touch a single wire, I will look over the circuit design from a factory service manual .
https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Mercedes/E_Class/Mercedes-E_Class-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual.html

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1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
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Last edited by Father Of Giants; 03-23-2019 at 06:48 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2019, 08:05 AM
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Take a look at this write up and don't complicate anything!!!













OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals
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  #3  
Old 03-23-2019, 08:33 AM
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Connect mityvac to the fuel return line . This line is at the bulkhead underneath the windshield .
There are two rubber lines joining up with steel lines, the steel lines come up from under the car from the fuel tank.
The rubber lines are 8mm and 10mm internal id and you want the smaller 8mm one. Disconnect the 8mm line from the steel pipe and then fit something such as a short bit of rubber hose blocked by a bolt back on the steel pipe to cap it otherwise it will leak and empty fuel tank if car is on uneven ground.
Connect mityvac to the rubber hose ....put ignition on to open stop solenoid and then draw fuel through lines untill no bubbles in lines and then refit hose and proceed to crank engine over to start which will tale a few 20 second bursts of cranking to get running.
If any o rings are not sealing you will see air in relevant lines ... if no fuel at all then fuel filter primary filter o ring is not sealing... if so put another o ring on it and push itup above the one it already has and that will seal it tight. The bigger o ring on pre filter is never really an issue ots always the smaller one that gives trouble.
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:06 PM
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The mityvac works greats. Attached is a picture showing which hose I discontinued and hooked the mityvac to. Hope this helps
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Last edited by Shrimpblue; 08-16-2019 at 09:36 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2019, 08:30 PM
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You can use the fumes of ether on a rag but that’s about it. Don’t spray it inside or you risk bending a rod.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2019, 08:33 PM
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Gasoline on a rag works for me. Make sure you have a kung fu grip on the rag.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:37 AM
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Install a low pressure electric fuel pump on the fuel line where the hose attaches to the hard line on the driver's side firewall. Get a pump intended for carbureted engine with a pressure rating of about 3 to 5 psi and that free flows when off. Use it to prime the system every time you open it up. It will be the best $30 you ever spent on that car.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:56 AM
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I would hooker jumpers to another car,and prime that way,always filled fuel filter too,used atf if did not have diesel
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2019, 10:23 AM
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Crack open injector lines at the injectors, crank in 20 second burst with the pedal on the floor, check between each cranking and tighten lines that are wet with fuel. It’s that easy
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  #10  
Old 03-24-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Install a low pressure electric fuel pump on the fuel line where the hose attaches to the hard line on the driver's side firewall. Get a pump intended for carbureted engine with a pressure rating of about 3 to 5 psi and that free flows when off. Use it to prime the system every time you open it up. It will be the best $30 you ever spent on that car.
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Woah woah, now that's a solution I like.

I also appreciate your support shrimpblue, as well as everyone elses.
The fuel pump obviously goes on the return side.


So Greg, something like this right?


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8016sx/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60430/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/


What other fittings would I potentially need? I'm guessing people who use this either.


A:Touch the fuel pump leads to the battery to activate the fuel pump when needed, crude but it works.


B:Set up a toggle switch somewhere in the engine bay controlled via solenoid or relay


This job ain't so scary after all, what pump did you use if you remember?
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2019, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Crack open injector lines at the injectors, crank in 20 second burst with the pedal on the floor, check between each cranking and tighten lines that are wet with fuel. It’s that easy
Unfortunately, pedal to the floor does nothing because the injection pump is electronically actuated.

There's some sort of signal or input it needs, i'm guessing a strong enough crank signal.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2019, 12:07 PM
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Hmmm. I’m not sure about that. I would think that data would begin to be communicated when the key goes to the “run” position. I could be wrong. Ask Jay_Bob

As for the method in general. It works. I just did DV seals about a month ago. Got everything buttoned up and had the om606 running in under five minutes. Maybe more difficult to get going after it’s ALL opened up for the o ring job. I can see where an additional pump would be helpful for that. Can see why one would want it to be permanent.
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former members
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1978 300CD "El Toro"
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:25 PM
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Additional pump can help but some of them need to have fuel in them to be able to draw fresh fuel through so mount as low as possible with at least a couple of feet of pipe drop to them.
Be aware that opening fuel lines on engine can cause fuel to run back to tank hence keeping pump low down
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:56 PM
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On any of these cars, a full fuel tank is your friend. Gravity will do most of the work.
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2019, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
Woah woah, now that's a solution I like.


The fuel pump obviously goes on the return side.




The fuel pump goes on the fuel source line, not the return line.


Yes a pump like those... but, walk into your local parts store and buy one.... for less most likely.

Make sure it is low pressure and will free flow fuel through it when not powered.

The one I installed never lost a prime, or was self priming. Never a problem with that no matter how much, or little, fuel was in the tank.

The electric pump will push fuel to the car's lift pump and it will take care of the rest. Use the normal procedure for bleeding the fuel system.

Crack open the lines at each injector until they leak without any air bubbles.

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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