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  #1  
Old 07-06-2019, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 461
I definitely recommend the the Monark brand primer pump. Then, you could remove the electric pump that is in there. I got mine from mercedes source. It came with good instructions. I think they are even cheaper on eBay.
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2019, 01:20 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,147
I have a 1985 CA. The original "trap oxidizer" is dull cast-iron. The replacement (forgot name) has a shiny stainless cover. It is more like a catalytic converter (honeycomb ceramic). Rollguy here sells a "test pipe" which replaces it. If you still have the OE, M-B will still replace it for free, I understand.

The blue saucer is good and they continued that 1986+. I added one to my 1984. It is basically a vacuum amplifier for the VCV "signal" to the transmission, plus adds a few features for acceleration.

Your emissions controls likely no longer work and no new parts available. There is a diagram posted many times which shows what parts you can remove, which will clean up ~1/2 of the vacuum stuff in the bay. You can also remove the EGR valve with plates Rollguy sells (~$15). After that, plus rerouting the AC h.p. run, I can now loosen the alternator bolts in 5 min instead of an hour of cussing.

People fuss that the CA air filter is $45 if you can find one. I just stack 2 cheaper filters (Wix 46070), for 1985 Toyota MR2. Others have the air filter housing above the intake manifold on a bracket which shakes & breaks. I added the 1985 air filter to my 1984.

The electric fuel pump will work. However you provide it, the injection pump needs >10 psig at its inlet. I assume the lift pump is still bolted to the block, beside the IP. If the housing is OK, it should be easily rebuildable since the design is common to most Bosch lift pumps and kits are ~$15 (ebay). Indeed, I wondered about adapting another Bosch pump but most have the ports facing in ways that would bump into components in the engine bay. If yours still has the OE white plastic primer pump, lose that for the smaller & better black one (many posts, white one sucks in air).

To check boost, I just tee in a vacuum/boost gage to the tube off the intake and clip it under the windshield wiper to view as I drive, or when more motivated, ran a tube thru the rubber grommet into the cabin. You should see ~10 psig under hard pedal as the engine rpm increases. Don't goose it up or you risk melting pistons.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2019, 01:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,428
Lots and lots of mechanical diesel gensets use engines not unlike the OM61x. Many get a boost pump added in order to provide sufficient flow through a fine filter and water separator, and give both lift (often these gensets are mounted on top of the fuel tank) and extra pressure. Works like a charm.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2019, 10:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 8
Hey guys!

This blew up. Thank you so much! All of this is great info for sure.

I did clean the banjo bolt off the intake. Turns out, it's missing a washer haha. So I have to get one of those. I also cleaned the crud outnof the aneroid.

Embarrassingly, that was the cigar hose. It was all cracked so I replaced it with regular hose (stupid of me, I know).

But! I do have parts coming in tomorrow. The cigar hose is one of those parts. Broke the vacuum line from the pump to the brake booster too.

I did hook a gauge up to the threaded port on the intake and the turbo is creating 5 psi- 11 psi. The only thing is I'm not sure if the ALDA is increasing fuel delivery. Any way to test that?

I plan on changing the fuel filters, along with a purge and cleaning the gas tank ( after removing the fuel level sensor, it was apparent there was a lot of crap as my gauge did not work very well) and monark nozzles. This lifter pump, I'm not really understanding very well. How can I test this? And this is what the electric pump might be trying to replace?

As for the air filter, I just ordered a new one as AutoZone sells them for $90 and had no way to get one. But the current one is FILTHY.

I have a lot to learn on this andni appreciate everyone's help. I just want to feel better about the car for my wife.

I've still got the steering slop to take care of, cleaning and replacing fuel filters and doing a proper job of hooking up the vacuum.

You know what really grinds my gears though? Some jabroni butchered the front doors and rear deck lid to install speakers. I took them out because they couldn't even get it right man..

Again, you all are incredible. Thank you so much!
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