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  #1  
Old 01-16-2020, 02:28 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanHoug View Post
removed button climate control and repaired 2 burnt PCB tracts on pin 10, likely toasted due to over-current. ********.
You probably know this already but unplugging the pump (located underneath and to the right if I remember correctly, of the monovalve) which circulates hot water at idle for the heater is recommended to prevent frying the climate control unit.

In the catalog part# A0008352564 was replaced by A0008356964 (still available). Don't know if that corrected the issue.


Thanks for inadvertently answering 2 questions that I had pending!
1. That the 12mm Mcmaster shims "fit just fine".
2. That keys can be had from MB

What size shims thickness did you buy?


.
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2020, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDBCB20 View Post
You probably know this already but unplugging the pump (located underneath and to the right if I remember correctly, of the monovalve) which circulates hot water at idle for the heater is recommended to prevent frying the climate control unit.

In the catalog part# A0008352564 was replaced by A0008356964 (still available). Don't know if that corrected the issue.


Thanks for inadvertently answering 2 questions that I had pending!
1. That the 12mm Mcmaster shims "fit just fine".
2. That keys can be had from MB

What size shims thickness did you buy?


.

nope, i did NOT know that about the circ pump. i could see smoke come off the board when i turned the test fan (the correct one was on order) on and assumed it was the FAN drawing too much. so then i covered the fan outlet to reduce fan load/amperage and the board did not smoke. bothered me because i know the various speeds go thru the resistor under the brake booster so something wasn't making sense. now if that pump has a locked rotor, that could do that. i took it for one 20 mile drive since then so either the control board is now toast or the pump freed up or fan current somehow IS related. more investigating to do.


i bought 0.1, .2, .3, .4 and 1mm shims. only used the .1 in conjunction with the OEM shim and it raised the pressure about 100psi. the shims are more than just washers... they truly are very flat, die-cut spring steel that give highly repeatable results.



treated the finished injectors with gun bluing just now. gives a bit of a rust resistant coating and looks purrrty.
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2020, 07:21 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanHoug View Post
nope, i did NOT know that about the circ pump. i could see smoke come off the board when i turned the test fan (the correct one was on order) on and assumed it was the FAN drawing too much. so then i covered the fan outlet to reduce fan load/amperage and the board did not smoke. bothered me because i know the various speeds go thru the resistor under the brake booster so something wasn't making sense. now if that pump has a locked rotor, that could do that. i took it for one 20 mile drive since then so either the control board is now toast or the pump freed up or fan current somehow IS related. more investigating to do.

.
Checklist to comply with (in order not to fry refurb ccu and void warranty) before installing refurb ccu provided by the folks who refurb ccu to verify current draw at the pins per component:

https://www.programainc.com/info/60285/Document/tech-tip.pdf

Apparently Aux Pump is not the only possible culprit: Monovalve and . A.C. Comp relay might also be implicated.
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