w123 Floor Rust repair - Page 14 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

martureo · #**196** 08-19-2022, 08:41 PM

New patch ground flush (I welded both sides, so I'm less worried about reducing the strength in that area), and painted with weld through primer.

It sprinkled for two hours after I was in the groove and thought I'd finish this area tonight. Luckily I'd put up my tent to work in the heat and it protected the area from the rain. Unfortunately that means that I was stopped for the night.

More tomorrow.

vwnate1 · #**197** 08-19-2022, 10:16 PM

As you prolly know, much of my career has been spent on older low end vehicles, I always pay attention when someone is trying to teach me new things .

I learned to grab old broken leaf springs or varying widths and grind the jagged broken end to a fine narrow blade and use it to separate pinch welds, spot welds and so on without buckling the metal .

Give it a try, I know you will like it .

martureo · #**198** 08-20-2022, 08:19 PM

Well, crap, the bit behind that is also made of rust.

New bit to replace the old (mostly made of rust) bit.

New angle welded in.

martureo · #**199** 08-20-2022, 08:31 PM

This patch was incredibly difficult to make. Not because the shape, but because of the flat, cornered protrusion that's supposed to hold the bumper edge reinforcement.

And fully welded.

Threw some primer on it as I'm going to be out of town for the next week. (Grrr, I wish I could keep going as the weather is going to be nice)

indybenz · #**200** 08-22-2022, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

Back to the driver's side inner fender leak area.

I had to remove the parking brake bracket assembly as the lower of the two rear mounting fasteners was mounted to... air, surrounded by rust.

Cut out a bit more and this just sucks.

So here's the issue. The blue surface is the firewall. It continues across to the left. The red surface is the engine bay rear drain located below the fuse box. These two surface come together and are rusted out. So I have to figure out a way to weld in new material to make the firewall continuous, and then patch this section of the inner fender.

The problem is that the firewall patch is going to be really really hard to get to. I don't think I can weld it from this side and can only weld it from inside the car. But that leaves just seam sealer holding the water back. I don't like it.

Oh man this makes me super anxious just looking at it. I'm on W123 number 3 and they all have this type of rust. I did a 'Kent Bergsma' style patch on a similar area to this using Miracle paint and layers of fibreglass. Will see how that works.

Good on you for tackling this...but at what point are these W123s just...finished?! I love seeing other people do this but have ZERO interest in this type of resto. I just want to drive the car...guess I'll send it off for someone else to weld.

Anywho watching this thread with interest!

What are your intentions with the undercoating once you're 'done' (whatever that means)? I've been reading about Lanoguard (or other lanolin based products) and that seems 100% the way to go over just about everything else that just traps water/air causing more rust.

indybenz · #**201** 08-22-2022, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gonesurfing

I'm all too familiar with this repair. LOL.

Gorgeous. Really well done!

martureo · #**202** 07-23-2023, 08:00 PM

I'm back at it again.

I didn't get pictures of everything, but here's what's happened since I last posted.

I finished up the rust repairs on the driver's fender.

Then took it to my parent's nice big garage to sand, prime and paint it.

No pics of it painted and adding clear coat. I wasn't too happy with the slight orange peel and forgot to take any pictures.

vwnate1 · #**203** 07-23-2023, 08:03 PM

At least you're doing something here, once it's fully dried and hardened you can buff / polish the orange peel out .

martureo · #**204** 07-23-2023, 08:33 PM

The rubber bumper reinforcement on the driver's side had the same problem as the passenger's side. It wasn't rusted, but the stud was broken.

I tried to get it from the dealer, but at $80 that seemed a bit much for a broken stud. (123 880 17 16)

I drilled out this stud and wire wheeled to bare metal.

martureo · #**205** 07-23-2023, 08:37 PM

I welded in a bolt and then painted it with Bill Hirsh's Chassis Black. I'm really liking this paint.

The bolt I used was: M6 x 1 mm, 45 mm long. Got it from McMaster Carr (91280A071)

martureo · #**206** 07-23-2023, 08:49 PM

Ordered some new screws for attaching the fenders (the old ones are crusty), the dealer wanted $80 for a full fastener kit for each side.

Then went back and cleaned the passenger side floor and painted with Bill Hirsh chassis black. I feel better with another coat of paint on the floor.

Now, when I cut out the rust from the passenger's seat front support I pulled the vacuum lines and cables up and tied them above the floor to keep them safe. I didn't think about routing them back under the seat support before welding.

That bit me in the butt a little bit. I could disconnect four of the vacuum lines, but one of them I'm not sure where they terminate and two cables don't have any nearby disconnect.

martureo · #**207** 07-23-2023, 08:55 PM

If anyone else has made this mistake, I'll give you the shortcut to get out of it.

Neither cable is easily disconnected at the center console. You've got to hunt them down in the B pillar.

The first is the easy one. Its the door switch for the rear door. Two spade connectors to disconnect and then feed it back up through the B pillar.

The second one sucks. Its for the rear window switch. Follow it all the way up to the connector, pull the connector apart and yup, you have to desolder the wires. Only half the wires are to be pulled back through the B pillar.

So while I'm waiting on a seal from MB for the door, I started on the sound/thermal insulation.

martureo · #**208** 07-23-2023, 08:58 PM

Put in all the grommets I'd previously gathered and added a bit more. Moving quicker as I gain more experience doing this.

Passenger's side done.

(This stuff is really hard to take pictures of)

vwnate1 · #**209** 07-23-2023, 09:43 PM

I don't understand ~ I just make a schematic of the colors of the wires where they go into the plug then open the plug so the wires with their soldered on barrels can be threaded through the same holes.......

unkl300d · #**210** 07-23-2023, 10:42 PM

Nice work Martureo !

I have to hand it to you. What dedication !!

I hope the final product is a simply stunning car !