Didn't this used to be free? It is requiring a credit care and $75 to register.
Also, it says model years 1994 and higher.

The beauty of these cars is that you can get the FSM online.

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Go here:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp

It works for free.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Unless it's rusty, this well may be the funnest car you ever had .

Slow yes but in snow country who cares .

Get TWO SETS OF FILTERS and make sure the plastic fuel intake filter screen is CLEAR PLASTIC else you will be getting stranded .

I'd add a fungicidal to the fuel right now too, ask the local truckers what they like / use .

I love my '82 240D there's not a chance in hell the cam chain is worn at this low mileage .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I bought a '83 240D (4-spd std trans) back in January have have done a bunch of work to it since. It was cheap due to a failed alternator and vacuum pump.

most important:
- new alternator
- rebuilt vacuum pump
- oil change
- diff and gearbox oil change
- new injector return hoses
- lubricate and adjust throttle linkage
- inspect flex discs and suspension bushings
- new motor mounts + trans mount (I had lots of driveline bucking when letting off the throttle; this mostly fixed it)
- new fuses
- clean all drains and hood hinge pockets; check for rust

to be done if needed:
- removed and cleaned interior
- removed floor sound deadening to check for rust
- 3 new door check straps (check these -- I had one break and couldn't close the door until I pulled the door card and removed it)
- drilled out broken trunk lock and replaced with rekeyed PnP one
- lubricated all door windows and locks

optional, depending on your goals
- fixed central locking leaks
- driver's manual window reg swap
- new door window wiper rubber
- refinish i wood trim
- solder broken window switch
- clean and rebuild dash switches


Since it runs well and has good power I've been putting off the valve adjustment + fuel filter change until some diesel purge and a new gasket came in the mail. Which they did, so i should probably get that over with!

But with this work done, i've pretty confident in it as a driver. Some things are obviously higher priority than others.

Rotella T6 is good all year round. Though there is a bit of $$ savings with the T4. I'd adjust the valves and clean and change filters as suggested. Lots of good suggestions. I will add a diesel purge. I am blanking on the German brand of injector cleaner to use. You feed it uncut into the fuel line. Lots of smoke.

Also, if slow, check that the bushings are in the 'throttle' linkage setup. Also, that the pivot ball is tight.

75Sv1, with the Roosamaster pumps on my Fords, we commonly fill the filter with ATF and start the engine long enough that it gets to the injectors, then let it sit overnight or so. That will often unstick a sticky pump. Does that sound like a good idea for these Bosch pumps? It is a Bosch pump, right?

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI

Liquid Moly is the brand I was thinking of. I have no clue with ATF. I have added it to engine oil for a stuck lifter. Also, I don't know about use of it in Fords. I know a friend of mine won't take used oil to burn in his Ford 7.3 as he says it messes with the injectors.

Probably. ...and of course if the idle is too low it will shake like yours.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Moderators, I accidentally started two threads: this and
Just bought an '83 240D. Now what?

Could you merge them?

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI

Congrats! You've purchased an excellent sounding vehicle. As someone who has restored a 76 W115 240D and a 84 W123 300D, I can share that there are several smaller things you can do to ensure smooth and reliable operation.

I've tried to document alot of these in my thread. There are a few lesser known things like the Overflow Spring, injector nozzles and lift pump that you should pay attention to once you get the service items out of the way.

Feel free to PM questions or ask here.

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Good stuff. Thanks for the link.

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI

Not sure if anyone's mentioned it but

1st thing... VALVE ADJUSTMENT. you will be surprised how many miles one of these cars does without having the valves gapped properly, the engine is starving of air and struggling to get rid of the exhaust.

Once you do that it will breathe properly and run 100% better.


then do all your liquid changes and filter changes. DO NOT forget about the transmission oil/fkuid and transmission filter

Why would you purposely make a 240D run at 75 MPH? Sweet Jesus, the racket, the high RPMs, the terror... Say it ain’t so!

😂

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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.

Change the differential and the speedometer to match. instead of a 3.69 diff go to a 300d'S 3.46

6% lower RPM

enough to make a nice difference at higher RPM, eg: 4000rpm becomes 3760rpm

however, it's not too much of a change to make the lower speeds still doable, expecially in a manual

I did get to ride in a car with a manual that the owner swapped the diff, it was a huge improvement.

If I’m forced to take the 240D on the freeway I just don’t go over 60-65MPH. I admit to the occasional sprint to 75-80 MPH (I hit 84 once, yikes!) to get the hell out of somebody’s way, but it’s definitely not good for me.

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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.