Why would you purposely make a 240D run at 75 MPH? Sweet Jesus, the racket, the high RPMs, the terror... Say it ain’t so!

😂

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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.

Change the differential and the speedometer to match. instead of a 3.69 diff go to a 300d'S 3.46

6% lower RPM

enough to make a nice difference at higher RPM, eg: 4000rpm becomes 3760rpm

however, it's not too much of a change to make the lower speeds still doable, expecially in a manual

I did get to ride in a car with a manual that the owner swapped the diff, it was a huge improvement.

If I’m forced to take the 240D on the freeway I just don’t go over 60-65MPH. I admit to the occasional sprint to 75-80 MPH (I hit 84 once, yikes!) to get the hell out of somebody’s way, but it’s definitely not good for me.

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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.

Have you done this modification? How does it drive at city speeds?

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

It can do it, it’s not like I DD it that way. It’s a great carto drive at 25-45, but sometimes you have to be on the highway a bit to get there.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Some simply don't care that they're spinning the engine far faster than prudent .

I have traveled America in my '82 240D with slush box and I rarely go over 60 ~ 65 MPH, if I need to go faster I'll get another vehicle rather than foolishly force the one at had beyond it's design parameters .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

JHZR2, that's a good list for any new-to-me vehicle.

It's going to be a summer toy, so probably one oil change a year, so the synthetic oil is the way to go, just in case I need to start it in the winter. It is winterized, so I can plug it in.

It sounds as if I already have most of the tools I'll need.

I have to get an engine and transmission rebuilt and into my '94 crew cab this summer, so this will go on the back burner until fall. I have about three months before winter closes in again, and a lot of outside projects! This winter I'll get it into my shop for a weekend and change fluids, filters, belts, check and adjust valve timing, and so on. Then it will be ready to play next summer.

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI

Rotella T6 is good all year round. Though there is a bit of $$ savings with the T4. I'd adjust the valves and clean and change filters as suggested. Lots of good suggestions. I will add a diesel purge. I am blanking on the German brand of injector cleaner to use. You feed it uncut into the fuel line. Lots of smoke.

Also, if slow, check that the bushings are in the 'throttle' linkage setup. Also, that the pivot ball is tight.

Didn't this used to be free? It is requiring a credit care and $75 to register.
Also, it says model years 1994 and higher.

The beauty of these cars is that you can get the FSM online.

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Go here:

https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp

It works for free.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Unless it's rusty, this well may be the funnest car you ever had .

Slow yes but in snow country who cares .

Get TWO SETS OF FILTERS and make sure the plastic fuel intake filter screen is CLEAR PLASTIC else you will be getting stranded .

I'd add a fungicidal to the fuel right now too, ask the local truckers what they like / use .

I love my '82 240D there's not a chance in hell the cam chain is worn at this low mileage .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I bought a '83 240D (4-spd std trans) back in January have have done a bunch of work to it since. It was cheap due to a failed alternator and vacuum pump.

most important:
- new alternator
- rebuilt vacuum pump
- oil change
- diff and gearbox oil change
- new injector return hoses
- lubricate and adjust throttle linkage
- inspect flex discs and suspension bushings
- new motor mounts + trans mount (I had lots of driveline bucking when letting off the throttle; this mostly fixed it)
- new fuses
- clean all drains and hood hinge pockets; check for rust

to be done if needed:
- removed and cleaned interior
- removed floor sound deadening to check for rust
- 3 new door check straps (check these -- I had one break and couldn't close the door until I pulled the door card and removed it)
- drilled out broken trunk lock and replaced with rekeyed PnP one
- lubricated all door windows and locks

optional, depending on your goals
- fixed central locking leaks
- driver's manual window reg swap
- new door window wiper rubber
- refinish i wood trim
- solder broken window switch
- clean and rebuild dash switches


Since it runs well and has good power I've been putting off the valve adjustment + fuel filter change until some diesel purge and a new gasket came in the mail. Which they did, so i should probably get that over with!

But with this work done, i've pretty confident in it as a driver. Some things are obviously higher priority than others.

75Sv1, with the Roosamaster pumps on my Fords, we commonly fill the filter with ATF and start the engine long enough that it gets to the injectors, then let it sit overnight or so. That will often unstick a sticky pump. Does that sound like a good idea for these Bosch pumps? It is a Bosch pump, right?

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI

Liquid Moly is the brand I was thinking of. I have no clue with ATF. I have added it to engine oil for a stuck lifter. Also, I don't know about use of it in Fords. I know a friend of mine won't take used oil to burn in his Ford 7.3 as he says it messes with the injectors.

Moderators, I accidentally started two threads: this and
Just bought an '83 240D. Now what?

Could you merge them?

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI