I received a 73 220d from a family member who let it sit for 20 years. It will not start. I only have between 200 -220 compression on each cylinder and the delivery valves don't seem to be putting out much fuel. I do have a little fuel to three of the injectors but one is bone dry. The valves were adjusted, fuel filters have been replaced, as well as the hand pump and the injectors were rebuilt.



- Will it ever run with that low of compression?
- Any advice on getting compression up? Wet or dry doesn't get much better, I tried putting some seafoam down the cylinders and letting them soak a bit but compression got no better.

- Any advice on how to get better performance out of the delivery valves?



All I know to try next would be some Restore Engine Restorer and see if that helps the compression?

My suggestion would be to see if it will run on WD-40 sprayed into the intake. The reason for the low compression can be determined using a leak down test where each cylinder is pressurized while at top dead center and listen for leakage into the exhaust, the intake, or the crankcase. Hot air from a heat gun into the intake while cranking is a good way to start a reluctant diesel.

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'97 E 300 D

YOu can pull it to get it started. It will need fuel though to run.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yes, it will run and run O.K. with that low compression, as mentioned dry the inverted WD-40 in the intake .

Often the valves get surface rust on the sealing surfaces from sitting and the compression comes back after being run a while .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

220 is on the low side but that is to be expected for an engine which sat that long. Maybe, and that is just a maybe, the compression will improve if and when you get it to start and run.

What procedure are you using to attempt starting?

The proper procedure is to:
1. Turn ignition to "run" or #2 on the switch
2. Pull the start lever ("Gorilla knob") until you feel a spring resistance.
3. Hold the knob in this position until you see the heating element glowing in the chrome aperture ("Salt shaker")
4. Pull further on the knob to engage the starter motor.

Crank for a maximum of 30 seconds preferably only 10 to 15 seconds. If the engine doesn't fire then repeat steps #2 through #4.

The minimum for compression listed is 213 p.s.i. so you are on the low end of the scale but that is for an engine which is in a running condition not one which has been sitting for years.

Good luck!

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

My old Chiltons repair manual states that 220# is needed for reliable starting. They will run with a lot less if you can get them started.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thanks everyone for the replies! I have to work tomorrow, but I will hopefully be able to get out to work on it some Tuesday, and will give Wd40 a shot.

I may be wrong on this but...have heard that WD-40 of recent years has been reformulated and won't work as a fuel to start engines...anybody know for sure???

To the OP 200-220 seems quite even and makes me wonder about 1. Is the gauge known good, and 2. is the valve timing correct?

Good luck and keep us posted.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I adjusted the valves. The gauge is a brand new tester from Harbor Freight. I assume it is correct. I'll respond on Tuesday when I get a chance to work on it some more. Thanks.

The China Freight testers are extremely well known for being bad out of the box. They have a schraeder valve in the adapter of the tool that typically leaks or is missing entirely and can give false readings. Some have reported the gauge being very badly off. Just something to be aware of. Try swapping the valve from a different adapter and see if you get a different result.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

s2s, I understand the valves have been adjusted, that was a good move. Has the valve timing been checked i.e., are the camshaft and crankshaft in time? Crank on zero and camshaft marks lined up? If you know it was running well and just parked it can be assumed ok.

Good luck!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

YES ! .

I was trying to diagnose a 50 year old Honda Moto's no start condition and the H.F. tester said only 65# so I rebuilt the top end, re assembled it and still no start and little difference in the kick stater pedal's resistance so I re tested, after new valves and piston it only showed 5# more so I tried another tester and Lo ! 150 #, dammit .

I understand the need for cheap tools that may not last long but broken right out of the box ? . that's piss poor .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Sounds like you may also have a piston in an element stuck at the top. In the injection pump.

I had no luck with the WD-40. Above it was mentioned that WD-40 may be less combustible than it use to be and perhaps that is why it didn't work for me?
As for the Harbor Freight tester, yeah I know, but it was the only place I could find that had a diesel tester, considering the low miles and history I know of the car I assume that it's just from sitting and that the compression will come back if I can get it started, but so far no luck.

Main issue is still that I am not getting fuel out of all of the delivery valves, 1, 2, and 4 are moderate fuel spray, but 3 is bone dry.

Try Pam cooking spray to start it. Try Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine (from the top and in the oil) to see if it's just stuck rings. That will free it up if so.