Removing Stripped Allen Head Door Striker Bolts

[Diesel911]

I go by 300D man over on benzworld.org. I did not feel the need to duplicate the thread so please use the link.

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/removing-stripped-allen-head-door-striker-bolts.3064064/

[g300d]

I've seen them spun with a hammer and cold chisel once.

[vwnate1]

Or, you can use a 7MM drill to easily drill them out, the heads will pop right off allowing you to remove the bad striker then the 8 X 1.25 MM stub easily unscrews by your fingers .

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Or, you can use a 7MM drill to easily drill them out, the heads will pop right off allowing you to remove the bad striker then the 8 X 1.25 MM stub easily unscrews by your fingers .

Note I think this is way to go if I was a Mechanic making money off of the job and the Customer has to pay for the new Door Striker Bolts.

The way they are now I can still reuse the Bolts. I can use hammer and punch to tighten them.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by g300d

I've seen them spun with a hammer and cold chisel once.

I have seen similar done with a center punch and hammer. I picked the method that had the best guarantee of success and getting the job over with.

The way they are now I can still reuse the Bolts. I can use hammer and punch to tighten them.

[Diesel911]

Here is the part number. Look up what single bolt costs. 1169900031

Pelican Parts whats $4.50 each plus shipping for the Door Striker Bolts. They were a lot more on eBay.

Buy being able to reuse the bolts I save $18 plus the shipping.

After Thanksgivings I am going to go to the local industrial hardware store and see what they have as it is less then a mile away.

And in the meantime My Striker is back on the care and working.

[speednjay]

I Would’ve welded a nut on the top. I wouldn’t reuse The stripped out bolts that’s just asking for a future headache

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by speednjay

I Would’ve welded a nut on the top. I wouldn’t reuse The stripped out bolts that’s just asking for a future headache

I am not that good of a welder and the in this case the top of the seat is right next to the Door Striker; why I did not use a propane torch to heat the area.

Welding splatter can damage if every thing is shielded.

[pylet2000]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Here is the part number. Look up what single bolt costs. 1169900031

Pelican Parts whats $4.50 each plus shipping for the Door Striker Bolts. They were a lot more on eBay.

Buy being able to reuse the bolts I save $18 plus the shipping.

After Thanksgivings I am going to go to the local industrial hardware store and see what they have as it is less then a mile away.

And in the meantime My Striker is back on the care and working.

I've had that same thought, there has to be a cost effective alternative, but haven't gone on the hunt yet. Let us know if you find something.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by pylet2000

I've had that same thought, there has to be a cost effective alternative, but haven't gone on the hunt yet. Let us know if you find something.

The Bolts are 8mm x 1.25 x 16mm long (the threaded area)

I did a google image search for : 8mm 1.25 flat head screws

There is allen head, Torx and phillips head bolts/screws of the same design. Different finishes and they also have A2 stainless steel. If I remember correctly some knife makers use A2 stainless and it can be hardened or otherwise heat treated.

I am wondering if the Torx head ones would be the best way to go as far as removing the later on.

16mm long means the threaded area. I mention that because for some reason at the local industrial hardware they seemed to be using the overall length.

I bought 4 flat head allen head bolts for 80 cents each ant the threaded area was 15mm but on the label on the bin it said 20mm? which I am guessing represents the total length of the screw/bolt. Black phosphate and the allen head socket in the screw/bolt was slightly deeper.
I am going to make sure never-seize gets under the head as well as the threads hoping it will make it easier to get them out the next time.

They also had A2 stainless ones at $1.25 each.

[martureo]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The Bolts are 8mm x 1.25 x 16mm long (the threaded area)

I did a google image search for : 8mm 1.25 flat head screws

There is allen head, Torx and phillips head bolts/screws of the same design. Different finishes and they also have A2 stainless steel. If I remember correctly some knife makers use A2 stainless and it can be hardened or otherwise heat treated.

I am wondering if the Torx head ones would be the best way to go as far as removing the later on.

16mm long means the threaded area. I mention that because for some reason at the local industrial hardware they seemed to be using the overall length.

I bought 4 flat head allen head bolts for 80 cents each ant the threaded area was 15mm but on the label on the bin it said 20mm? which I am guessing represents the total length of the screw/bolt. Black phosphate and the allen head socket in the screw/bolt was slightly deeper.
I am going to make sure never-seize gets under the head as well as the threads hoping it will make it easier to get them out the next time.

They also had A2 stainless ones at $1.25 each.

Do not use stainless. The thread plate that these thread into is made of carbon steel. With any moisture in the environment it will cause galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolt and the thread plate, making it really hard to remove.

Never seize is a great idea.

If you want the exact screw as from the factory its as you said a "M8x1.25x16mm socket head oval screw."

I think one of the best coatings that I've seen is a PVC coating from GM, but its hard to find. GM7114M.

[dogguy]

Originally Posted by martureo

Do no use stainless. The thread plate that these thread into is made of carbon steel. With any moisture in the environment it will cause galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolt and the thread plate, making it really hard to remove.

Wisdom such as this is priceless. Love it.
Always something new to learn.

Thanks for sharing this information.

[imgolden]

I hate these things. I’ve had to drill out a few, but got my extras at the yard.
A medium duty impact wrench will make it easy , but don’t do it when the neighbors are trying to sleep

[Diesel911]

There is other methods of removal not mentioned. There is special extractors for stripped out allen head bolts, square ended or some other type of Ezie outs might have worked.

Some people have pounded in Torx type bits into allen had bolts and that got them out.

I was really sure what I did would work and that I could reuse the Bolts if I did it that way. I mean my Striker is back on the Car right now and I did not have to buy or order new Bolts. Nor did I have to drive anywhere looking for substitutes. However, I may look tomorrow.

[j-galap]

Great solution, thanks for sharing this.

Now, would a worn/out of alignment door striker by the reason why my passenger side rear door is tougher to close than the rest of the doors? Strangely, the door lock pin is more difficult to push down on that door than all the rest too