The white wire is my grounding connection. The other end goes to the ground point in the dash (where the bunch of brown wires are) with a Deutsch DT connector pin as a quick connect between.


The LM7812 voltage regulator keeps the cluster LED lights alive. Otherwise they start flickering and fail within a year, oddly out of every other light being replaced with LED its only those that failed consistently until I added the regulator.

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It turns out I had an incomplete success. Everything's working right except the dash lights. Know that I know I have a good ground, it's got to be a power issue. Like I said before, the PCB is knackered, and I have some wire bypassing the fault. I guess it's time to re-do that.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Its a good point to NEVER remove cluster bulbs with the lights on, they can short across which will melt the PCB traces.

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Problem solved. I soldered a new jumper wire from the back of the PCB to the far side of the rheostat. Then I realized I had the wire on the wrong pin. Moved it to the right one, and now I'm good.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.