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  #16  
Old 06-09-2021, 06:18 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Does your mechanic still wear a mask? If not, ask why? An EGR is like wearing a mask, as you breathe in the carbon dioxide you just exhaled.

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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2021, 08:39 AM
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Location: Sunny Ft. Lauderdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post

Almost seems like a good welder could cut at the smallish gray neck just to the left of the EGR and cap it, netting a decent, insulated bypass.
Ok, your "new" engine has the insulated bypass, your old engine has the EGR blank off plate, marry the two. There are several posts in this forum that detail the EGR delete process. To your point, rather than cutting off the smallish gray neck, remove the EGR and tubing, and fashion a sheet metal "bottlecap" and affix to the stub end using the same clamp that already exists in the system.

Reference the attached picture below, the red circle being where the bottlecap is applied and the yellow line indicating all of the stuff that can be removed to clean up the engine bay.
Attached Thumbnails
Anybody recognize this electrical fitting on top of the OM603 IP?-img_6261.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2021, 01:45 PM
cmac2012's Avatar
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Location: Redwood City, CA
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It's a tough one, I like D300's idea of stealth deletion. I've read of that once before, need to look into it. I agree that getting that crap out of the way has appeal, not sure how much it would be in my way however. I've never experienced an SDL with EGR in place so I'll check it out. Not sure what the chances for coming into grief with smog official type people is either but would be nice to avoid.
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1986 300SDL, 362K
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2021, 02:29 PM
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Disabling vacuum to the EGR valve has the same effect as installing a blanking plug and blanking plate on the EGR ports. You just don't have to do anything any more complicated than blocking or removing the vacuum line. There is a very strong spring inside the valve that keeps it pushed closed when vacuum is removed. Done and dusted. No parts or tools required. It's your car, your time, your money.
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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2021, 04:10 PM
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Diseasel300 is 100% correct, you can easily disable and leave everything in place, the default position for the EGR is closed with no vac signal. You are also in CA, so you need to determine whether or not you are subject to any emissions testing/inspection. I would think that you would be except from an age perspective, but maybe not.

You also have more room under hood in the w126 than I do in the w124. In my case, ditching the EGR made room for an EGT sensor and an Oil Catch can and was well worth the effort, but again, I'm not subject to any inspections and have owned the car for nearly 20 years and plan on owning it 20 more, so as mentioned, your time, money and risk/reward profile should drive your choice.
Attached Thumbnails
Anybody recognize this electrical fitting on top of the OM603 IP?-oil-can.jpg  
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  #21  
Old 06-10-2021, 01:13 AM
cmac2012's Avatar
Renaissances Dude
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Redwood City, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Disabling vacuum to the EGR valve has the same effect as installing a blanking plug and blanking plate on the EGR ports. You just don't have to do anything any more complicated than blocking or removing the vacuum line. There is a very strong spring inside the valve that keeps it pushed closed when vacuum is removed. Done and dusted. No parts or tools required. It's your car, your time, your money.
When you mentioned a BB before, do you use the right size to plug the vacuum line so that it doesn't even look at first glance to be disabled? I mean plug it then reattach it.

But to the question of not knowing where to put the three different colored wires in the jack, was all much ado about nothing. As the donor car was not going to be used again, he just cut most all of the wires. I mentioned it to him today, he agreed it could be a small difficulty - we went to look at the 'new' motor and there was the jack, still attached to the IP, with about 8 inches of wire sticking out. Not sure if he will just use crimp connections to hook the wires to those on the car. The method I would think better would be to use the old method of wrapping two wires with a bit of wire strap, about a quarter wide, crimping it in place then soldering, followed by sliding the preplaced shrink fitting over the joint and heating it. That way you could solder them in-line and then use the shrink insuator.

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