Yes, this is indeed very do-able at home but, foo foo can spray paints HAVE NO HARDENER so no matter how well you do it it won't last many years .

Just for fun, go to you tube and watch the various $50 paint job videos, many are stunning .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Replaced the way old and leaking injector return hoses. Finally found a use for the Gear Wrench hose pliers set I bought a few years back, made it so much easier! Also changed both fuel filters and confirmed that the battery is toast. Yesterday I replaced the sliding thing in the passenger rear window. And kind of successfully rebuilt the fuel level sending unit. Both resistance wires were broken and balled up around the float and the copper wire was broken off at the terminal. I made a splint for the broken copper strip for the copper wire and replaced both resistance wires. It sometimes is close to spec but other times it seems like its an open circuit. After sitting in the tank over night, it reads kinda close to whats in the tank and isn't jumping around so maybe it just needed a soak in some diesel.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

I have at least two I have taken apart and cleaned up so they work and are accurate but the needle usually gets jumpy between 1/4 and 1/3 tank, this must be where most folks keep their fuel supply .

In So. Cal. no shipping .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I have 4 of these German frauleins and the mechanical fixes are for the moment done after many many years and they all start and run perfectly. The paint is 35-40 years old and my 85 300D was the worst. I fixed the rusted sections with miracle paint and epoxy fiberglass. fortunately subframe and rockers were Ok but doors and fenders had holes. 2 weeks on that she was ready for prep and paint. Clear coat gone in most areas, flaking off in the rest. Huge job to sand the CC off frequently into the ultramarine blue base coat and primer. LF fender just too rusty to fix so junkyard replacement I had on hand got painted. Lots of sanding and then my very first BC /Clear coat paint job. My last paint job besides tractors and farm equipment was my old Cummins pickup which I did in urethane single stage and it was a marginal result, lousy actually. I put a lot more effort into the 85 and it turned out shockingly good without even any buffing yet which I also have never done. Almost no orange peeling and I don't know why. Lots of taping and and abundance of trim and insignia to remove which destroyed all the plastic clips of course. It took about 10 days to sand, prep and paint. MY oh my she is a pretty girl now. I got 2 just paint estimates(no body work!) for $3500 and $4000 which seemed exorbitant especially since the paint and Clear came to less than $250, OK a bit over $300 with sand paper and chemicals. Now I know why $4000 was not exorbitant. An amazing amount of labor but now well worth the effort. I have one bit of advice, watch Brian on Paint Society on youtube and buy a good gun. I threw away a cheap $35 gun and spent $160 and it was Mercedes quality and not made in China and it laid the paint down evenly. It really excelled with clear coat. I am a good diesel mechanic but a lousy painter no more.

Looking sharp there .

I ass-U-me you bought an HVLP paint gun ? .

They're nice .

Today I did a marathon on my 240D and she's apparently very happy as she's running smooth as silk .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I spent some free time checking out this Silver Green darling that I brought home yesterday. So much work to do!

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Looks very nice ! .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

How can I find a 1987 300D Wiring Diagram

Hi Terry ! .

WELCOME .

I'd suggest googling it, sadly Mercedes went from wiring diagrams to Schematics in the 1970's, I don't find them very useful and not a one fits on a standard 8 X 11 inch page .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Rather than start a new thread for one post I figured I would share here. Replaced the lower oil cooler hose today by removing the crimps and replacing the rubber. The lower hose was starting to seep oil past the crimp on the filter side and was really seeping on the cooler end, seeping enough for oil to drip off the bottom of the bend in the cooler side hard line.


Saw a few threads here showing that rubber replacement was a viable option. Ended up using 5/8ths Parker 801-10 hose and Norma clamps, 2 on each end. On one of the threads I saw a former member used 1/2 inch Parker hose, I tried that, but i have now clue how he got it on there. I tried heating the ends in boiling water and shoving them on but not luck. As other members have mentioned the 5/8ths hose is a tad large, but once on i found it gripped pretty well and the double clamps look like they will hold. I'll be diligent in eyeballing it whenever the hood is open just to be sure, but i think it will work out.



Thanks to everyone here for all the information on various topics that have helped me out.


Adam

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Central IL
1977 450SL - Orange Julius

1982 300D - Blue Steel

2014 E350 Coupe
1992 Ford Ranger

Adam ;

It's 15MM and the correct hose co$t$ no more.......

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Thanks for the info on the size. when it comes time to do the upper hose i'll hunt for 15mm and swap them both.


Been reading your thread about your 240, want to wish you luck getting her back on the road. Wish I could offer more than just moral support.

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Central IL
1977 450SL - Orange Julius

1982 300D - Blue Steel

2014 E350 Coupe
1992 Ford Ranger

There should be multiple threads on this DIY repair, BE SURE to not use the cheapo 'ideal' typ of radiator hose clamps ! .

You need full band typ clamps .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Haven't had to do anything to mine for a while. It's up to ~130k miles, and really doesn't need much yet. I did mess with the throttle mechanism a bit, pulled off a spring some previous owner had scabbed on. That solved the problem with the throttle not returning to idle.

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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI

New member. Most recent Benz Binge was a couple weeks ago in late May - During a span of 3-4 days, I did:
- Added seal conditioner to my current diff. (Happy smile on my face, 50 miles later and till now).
- Electrical work, fixating the phone charger 12V ashtray plug, so terminals always are in full contact and much less heat generated.
- Electrical work, replaced cracked wiring and moving the sensitive wiring from the DEFA block heater control box into the battery area, where it is much better protected against radiant heat from exhaust headers and shielded from rain splash as well. All soldered, double heatshrinked, with a couple small plugs on critical junctions to ease future cable replacement. Added a heat-shield to the DEFA junction box. My dash-mounted, outside temperature sensor is no longer stuck at 17 DegC. Spare sensor not yet needed.
- Degreased, sanded/prepped, degreased - 2 spare diff's, 4 rear half-shafts and a return pipe from the cabin heat exchanger.
Then 2k black epoxy primer and then 2k black.
- Delivery valve seals. With the intake manifold attached. Following the GSXR helpful tips. Attempted to get IP surface as clean as the Mayo Clinic Surgical Suite. I was a bit weary when unscrewing DV holders, turns out it was the old hard o-rings biting in the threads, as it gave one last bit of challenge before finally freed. Torque wrench acted up, so had to exercise it at much lower setting and work up from there. Attached lines again but not at injectors. Cranked 5x 10-15 seconds each. A puddle diesel in the rags next to injectors. Lines cleared and attached to injectors. Within a minute engine ran and idled perfectly. Leak check. Attach everything. No more diesel weeping towards left motor mount arm/rubber mount. All dry now. Life's good.

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