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  #31  
Old 03-28-2024, 06:03 AM
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Location: Denmark
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I did both rear wheel bearings and backing plates, within the last couple of days.
https://youtu.be/vjHt0aMoD-E?si=wZFdEf0B6dKiyzPh

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  #32  
Old 03-28-2024, 09:13 AM
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Really good job on the youtube video Chris. Thanks
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  #33  
Old 06-30-2024, 02:41 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,877
I haven't done anything for my car today but I have the body disassembled stripped of trim and door handles with the back glass on a table with all the nicks and bumps sanded to bare metal. I intended to shoot a coat of 2K epoxy primer on those bare spots and let that sit for about an hour to evaporate much of the solvents then shoot reduce some of the 2k epoxy primer 10% and use that to seal the entire body.

It's all sanded, masked and ready except a couple spots which need some body putty which I will fix between shooting the doors, sunroof, hood, fenders and trunk lid.

Lord willing I'll be putting this black, 1985 300SD back together in a month or two.

I junked the white 84 and put the engine/transmission in the black body. I like diesel and I don't like white. NTTAWWT!
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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic
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  #34  
Old 07-05-2024, 10:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Central coast of California, Willamette Valley of Oregon.
Posts: 11
Today, I FedExed Island Girl's alternator back to ******** as it is still covered by the manufacturers warranty. The battery light had been coming on intermittently at higher engine RPMs, and the testing I was able to do indicated that the alternator was not charging the battery when the light was on.
My apologies for having been away from the forum for so long-I was having technical difficulties with logging in, or you'd all have had a chance to weigh in on my alternator issues before now.
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  #35  
Old 07-06-2024, 04:01 AM
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Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,772
Post Alternator Woes

Good to hear they stand behind their product ! .

I don't know whom it was but they're to be congratulated .

Since I switched to 1985 W123 65 ampere alternators and BOSCH or HELLA regulators I've had zero problems .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #36  
Old 07-22-2024, 03:52 PM
Shadetree
 
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Location: Back in SC upstate
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After dismantling it 2 months ago...

I have replaced the rusty metal at the lower opening for the rear windshield and some rust in the wells behind the rear tire wells. I've sanded, 2K expoxied (two coats) and two coats of high build 2K primer on all four doors, fenders, sunroof and trunk lit and intend to prep the main body and spot prime (2K epoxy) the tiny rust spots and the edges which the previous owner buffed bare. My DA brother is the PO.
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85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic
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  #37  
Old 07-27-2024, 09:01 AM
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Location: Alabama
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Over the last two days, I repaired the front passenger window and motor. The window dropped a few days ago (in the middle of heavy rain!) and wouldn't go back up. Turns out the motor was no longer attached to the door. So I pulled everything apart, bolted it back in place, and we have a fully-functional window again.
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Team 80s:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000
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  #38  
Old 07-28-2024, 10:30 AM
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Yesterday, Fern got new shoes. And I finally fixed the glovebox door latch.

It's the small things...
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Team 80s:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000
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  #39  
Old 07-28-2024, 12:23 PM
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Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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Post Window Fun

It's been hot here in Los Angeles so of course when my Sweet rolled the driver's window down to cool off a bit, it refused to go back up again .

I'm pretty sure it's the switches, I always keep a few on hand I've taken apart and replaced the rockers with ones having good decals then I hand polish all the tiny little contacts so they'll work AS-NEW again, I'll prolly install a pair I brought down yesterday .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #40  
Old 08-04-2024, 06:02 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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This was a few weeks, then a few days ago. Replaced glow plugs on my '99. Then, a fuel leak began, and I replaced the clear plastic fuel lines.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #41  
Old 08-08-2024, 09:19 AM
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Removed the driver-side rear brake caliper and hose because they're original and sticking. Discovered that the pads and rotor need replacing too, so ordered those. Will finish everything and do the passenger side this weekend.

While she's up on a jack, I looked underneath. Axle boots are good, but the bolts are safety-wired in place. Is this original?

Thanks!
__________________
Team 80s:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2024, 09:27 PM
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Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,772
Post

I've never seen one with the CV joint bolts drilled for safety wire but why not ? .
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #43  
Old 08-08-2024, 10:14 PM
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Location: Alabama
Posts: 12
Fern came with exactly zero maintenance records, so who knows what was done (or not) in her 40 year life. I thought the safety wire was a nice touch, though.
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Team 80s:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000
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  #44  
Old 08-09-2024, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matkinson13 View Post
Removed the driver-side rear brake caliper and hose because they're original and sticking. Discovered that the pads and rotor need replacing too, so ordered those. Will finish everything and do the passenger side this weekend.

While she's up on a jack, I looked underneath. Axle boots are good, but the bolts are safety-wired in place. Is this original?

Thanks!
Before messing around with diff's and half-shafts/axles, I read up on post from our dutch expert Stretch, 7-8 years ago. This was before my propshaft/shalf-shaft adventures beginning in 2020.
On annular half-shafts (around 1986++), Only ever seen the XZN/triple square bolts or the E12 Torx bolts for the diff-mounting side. Never heard about safety-wires, bu on the other hand heard a great deal about loctite used to secure them. The Febi bolt/boot kit for the w201 typically also come with E12 torx micro-encapsulated (blue) non-curing, but tough, threadlock on them. Before installing the axle bolt, I clean diff threads up with a tap, with respect to the 70 Nm (AFAIK !!) torque for the w201.
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  #45  
Old 08-10-2024, 09:44 AM
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Finished driver side rear brakes (hose, caliper, pads, rotor) and started on passenger side rear. Couldn't get flexible hose separated from hard line so will hit that today.

This side also has safety-wired axle bolts. Cool!

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Team 80s:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000
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