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  #1  
Old 08-13-2022, 03:37 PM
Graham's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
Tubing nuts often seize between the tube and the nut. IMO the anti-seize needs to go on the tube, slide the nut back out it on the tube and slide the nut forward. Fill the void between the nut and the tube with penetrating oil repeatedly. My preference is Kroil, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Notice what isn't listed...???
Don't understand that. How would I slide the nut back & forth on the tubing when it is still stuck in place?

I post here just to vent some of the frustration of dealing with old cars that are driven in salt. And get some moral support Not my first rodeo. Been through this many times on my old cars. But these days I seem to have forgotten things I learned along the way

This PM, I removed caliper, dust shield and disk/hub on the other side so taking a break! Probably just clean and paint the dust shield and parts of suspension rest of weekend. Disks/hubs can soak until Monday! Then they get HEAT!
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:10 PM
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....these days I seem to have forgotten things I learned along the way
>
>
Disks/hubs can soak until Monday! Then they get HEAT!
OK, there was something I had forgotten

The reason the disk-hub bolts could not be removed, was not because they were rusted. Penetrating fluid did no good. It was the Loctite on the bolts preventing them from coming out (even with an impact wrench)!!

I applied heat on opposite (wheel side) of the hub where the stuck bolt ends can be seen. Applied heat one at a time for about 2 min with a small butane torch. I then removed the bolts by hand using an Allen key with a short steel tube for leverage.

Glad to have that out of the way.

Hopefully same result with flare nuts, IF I change the hoses.
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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