Good to know! I already have a new pan gasket and filter for the transmission from Mercedes, which I'll install regardless, but I bought it because I figured if I was going to open up the pan, I should do it while I'm in there. As for the vcv adjustment, I performed the recommended tests and verified it is getting to the correct vacuum at idle, full throttle, and with the roller/coin method. I was under the impression that the vacuum system only influenced the quality/firmness of the shift and had no effect on the timing of the shifts. When I turned the modulator counter-clockwise a turn or two to see what happened I was able to achieve much more compliant shifts, just not at the right time.


I will be checking the working, governer, and modulator pressures this weekend and will report back with the findings. I will post some pictures after I wash it, as I realized I don't yet have any good pictures.


The last thing I should note is this is a 1985 CALIFORNIA car.

Once you get the fresh ATF and filter in there, disconnect the vacuum feed from the injection pump and adjust the modulator using a pressure gauge when the engine is fully warmed up with the car stationary on jack stands and engine at about 3,000 RPM, then you can peak and tweak the VCV on the IP .

Doing things in the correct order saves time and results in a better finished job .

I wasn't happy with how my '82 240D ended up shifting but my buddy the factory trained Mercedes Mechanic insists I leave it alone now because it no longer shifts from 1st > 2nd almost instantly like they did from the factory to increase fuel mileage .

In the case of the 240D, this means glacial acceleration due to upshifting at lower RPM's .

Now it's still only 67 HP trying to push a 3 ton vehicle so it's slow but it's also okay at keeping up with traffic, it wasn't before .

I did this same thing to my 1984 300CD and it has ZERO problems accelerating in second gear from less than 10MPH .

Everyone who's ridden in my 240D says it's perfect maybe so but I still miss that 32MPG's it used to get .

Once you have it all done you can add a vacuum gauge and test drive it and use a 7MM open end wrench to fine tune the VCV, you'll see .

As so often is the case, it takes TIME to do it really right and no shop is going to $pend the time .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

? You're not even going to try to adjust it ? .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I'm just following what the "pros" say. Also, I suspect that the clutch "arms" are stuck, thus the linearly higher pressure throughout the speed range. I would prefer not to get the unstuck and put It all back together just for it to get stuck again at some point. I doubt it's a matter of adjustment and rather a worn part.