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W123 Lower Ball Joint Seals...
So, what is the easy way to put these back on? I have tried many of the wrong ways, resulting in vituperation.
I would like to thank Diesel911 for his 100% correct tip for the OTC 1849 Pitman Arm Puller that popped the lower ball joint out with amazing ease! When he posted, these were being sold by Tradervar through Amazon for 19.95 + 6.85 shipping. Last week mine came from Tradervar through Ebay for $19.99, FREE SHIPPING. I don't think these will get any cheaper. This tool was solid, it had no give, so the tapered ball joint shaft popped out quickly! Thanks, Diesel911!!! The ball joints are Lemforder. I used a ball joint service tool that has waited for this occasion since 2008- you know, the one from Harbor Freight with the 5-letter word on it. The tool didn't even distort. I used LiquiMoly grease on the threads before I started, and applied dome disc brake grease just to the very top edge of the hole in the wheel carrier. I started it straight, then cranked it in. Biggest problem was my "soft jaws"-aluminum angle- moving in the vise. I used a cheater on a long HF breaker bar. It took some BTU's to get it in, but it's in and seated. The old one was removed with a 16-lb sledge at 1ft, about 15 swings, once it started moving I eased up, then finished with a 2-lb deadblow to keep the 27mm impact socket from launching. After all this, the fiddly little boot retaining ring is evading my efforts. Anyone got any ideas? I am so ready for a "Duh" moment on this one. Thanks for any help! snapped_bolt
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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts '80 300TD Probably will be put back into service! '79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal.... Last edited by snapped_bolt; 04-12-2016 at 07:05 PM. Reason: i misspelt |
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