My wifes '87 300D now has 137k on it. It is at that point where it needs some major maintenance.I am tempted to sell the car and use the money I would be putting into the car fixing it for a down-payment on a new VW Jetta TDI.I can already hear the negative remarks but your not in my position.#1 thing is I can't afford to have it done,so all maintenance must be done by me.#2,My wife does not have another car to drive while I am fixing this one.And she doesn't drive a stick so she can't drive my car.Here are "some" things I can think of off-hand that it needs:Struts(F&R),strut mounts,lower ball joints(I was planning on buying the whole control arm with ball joint in it).Injectors.I purged them twice and it still runs pretty rough when starting cold.A climate control push-button unit.New idler pulley and belt.Trans filter and fluid.(I wanted to switch to sythetic).It definitely needs new suspension bushings all around.(sounds like fun )Plus any unforseen things and whatever else I missed.I hate to do "one-thing-at-a-time",so, when/if I do it,I do it ALL.Roll it all together and it adds up to a nice down-payment.What should I do?
It needs the work done but my wife won't have a car to drive for a couple of weeks.I know I will never forgive myself for selling this car.Just once I'd like to own a car with an "actual" warranty.Hence I'm torn I know all opinions will lean toward keeping the Benz so please give me your "unbiased" advice.TIA.
Joe.
PS.When we attact Iraq gas is going through the ROOF.
Makes the TDI even more tempting.

I'm sorry to hear of your problems. No luck with resoldering the ACC unit?

The problems you mention are not unusual for the car. My 1987 was a money pit for the previous owner, who just about worked through all the typical issues before throwing in the towel. To the tune of about $5000 in dealership work.

Fortunately for me the remaining issues were not as bad as the dealer's worst estimate, and I've been resolving them myself - a lot cheaper.

I wish you were closer and I could talk you into selling the car to me - $2500 OK?

We're all willing to help you work through some of the issues - but I'd have to say doing the struts and suspension is a big project. Your rough startup may not be the injectors, but weak glow plugs. I have the same thing for the first two minutes + smoke. The good part is we've been free of malaria and West Nile Virus this summer!


Ken300D

Rough idle on cold start is glowplugs, not injectors. Injectors act up hot or cold.

Are you sure you have bad ball joints? 137,000 is soon for those. Check the track rod bearings and bushings (body end) -- they will clunk and chuckle just like bad ball joints, but are easier to replace.

Belt tensioner is a pain in the butt, I've heard, but not all that bad -- unless you don't get good instructions and wreck the new on during installation.....

The only suspenstion bushings you should need are the upper links on the rear -- PITA to replace as the originals have an eccentric bolt, you must unscrew the nut, and it is a pain to reach. Replacements are fixed length, use a standard bolt.

Quit fiddling about with the PBC unit and replace it -- a good one from the salvage yard isn't too bad. Be agressive if you buy a rebuild, even a new one, there are lots of duds floating around -- make sure you can return it if it is bad.

Check your upper radiator hose nipple. Pull the hose, check for signs of deterioration in the plastic -- erosion, cracks, brittleness (by scraping with a pen knife) -- if it looks iffy at all, get a new rad, spare yourself the cracked head (very expensive!).

I know it is tempting to scratch up a down payment and have no maintenance problems for a while, but think of that monthly payment for the next how many years, compared to NO monthly payment for the Benz....

I'd ask you what you'd take, too, except I already have one....!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks guys. I was going to do a search on injectors but I'll ask now.The problem is,when starting the car cold (even in July @80deg.) but a cold engine,when it fires it emits bluish smoke and really"nails" til it gets warm.After I did the diesel purge(2cans) It subsided abit but still does it somewhat.This is my 5th diesel and my experience tells me that's a plugged injector.If it was a glow-plug wouldn't it be hard starting? Mine kicks over as soon as you turn the key.It just smokes,rattles & rumbles.
As for the ball joint.The car made a weird "creaking" noise on the left side when turned at slow speeds(in driveway).I jacked the car and hd my wife turn the wheel.It was coming from the ball joint.I put a small hole in the boot and used a fine point grease gun and pumped it full.It hasn't creaked since.But I'm sure it needs replacement.
My main concern is what my wife will drive whilst I have her car torn apart to fix it.I am not doing a rush-job!I considered a little beater for her while I'm at this one but again...more money for the sake of fixing the MB.Keep the comments coming.I need to make a decision soon.Winter is just around the corner in NY and I don't have a garage. THANKS!!!

one thing I have to offer is this - new Jetta's TDI's are awesome!! I'd suggest leather seats. By the way, You do know they get 48 mpg, right??

__________________
1985 190D 2.2l Sold-to Brother-in-law
1996 Mustang 3.8l -"thinks it's a sports car"
1988 Grand Wagoneer - Sold (good home)
1995 Grand Cherokee Ltd -"What was I thinking??!!"

$2500 cash. That's my final offer.

With the rough startup and blue smoke - you have what I have. My diagnosis is one or two bad/weak glow plugs. The theory is that three or four cylinders catch right away and run smoothly, but the other two or three don't catch. The ones that don't have good glow plugs smoke like crazy because they're not fully burning fuel, and they also cause the rough running.

I'll let you know conclusively if this is the case, because I have my 1987 300D down for maintenance. Got the crossover pipe removed and ready to work on taking off the intake manifold next. All in preparation for putting in all new glow plugs - I had done #1 already because the GP indicator was never coming on.

The air intake pipes are pretty dirty with soot from the EGR valve. They're not full of stuff like some pictures I've seen posted here, but it will be good to get all that cleaned out and to keep the EGR deactivated. I just hope there's no leakage by the valve that would really require a blocking plate to stop. The intake is shiny clean right up until the EGR valve spews its stuff into the intake.

So, if things go well I should have the GP replacement done by the weekend and can report the results.

Ken300D

So go to Rent a Wreck and rent a car for you wife to use for 2 weeks.

I don't understand how you can't afford to spend a few thousand on your Mecedes yet you can aford to spend $15 to $20 thousand on a new vehicle. The interest and sales tax on the new vehicle will cost more than the repairs on your Mercedes.

P E H

You can change the glow plugs without taking the intake off -- get a swivel socket (must have the six point socket as part of the swivel) of the appropriate size and a long extension. You may need a 1/4" drive setup to get it in there, but the glowplugs shouldn't be that tight.

Make sure to use antisieze on the new plugs!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Here's pretty easy access to the glow plugs, plus I get to clean all the sooty goo out of the intake air ducts. I like this method of gaining improved access to the glow plugs because I don't like disturbing the metal fuel lines going to the injectors. If I play with them, I know I'd strip one or otherwise make it leak.

This much space helps make the job easier when the glow plugs are stuck in carbon deposits, like mine are. That makes them hard to pull out, and I have a glow plug reamer to run down the holes which takes some room.

Glow plugs #3, #4 and #6 are marked in case you don't recognize them.

Ken300D

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Here's a different angle - I'm trying to show just how dirty the EGR valve makes the air intake. What good is an air filter when this stuff is going right into the cylinders?

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Here's the charged air output from the turbo as it goes by the EGR valve. Nice and shiny up to the EGR, then nasty.

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And double dirty nasty in the crossover pipe and the air distribution (intake) manifold. Here's a couple of the pipes that put air into the head which goes right into the combustion cylinder.

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So, I wanted to illustrate the glow plug replacement job I'm undergoing currently. Should be able to tell you if it improves the startup characteristics (rough + smoke >> smooth + no smoke) after this weekend.

I tested all the glow plugs in the relatively dangerous way of measuring the current through them and watching them turn red. While all draw good current - approximately the same amount - they don't all heat the same. A few glow red at the tip very quickly. Others seem to heat up but don't glow as brightly or as quickly.

Another factor is the carbon buildup around them. I can see how this would keep them from getting as red hot if they are caked in carbon deposits. Hopefully the glow plug reamer, a clean intake ductwork, a mysteriously broken EGR valve, and RedLine DFC will keep down the carbon deposits.

Should I try to clean any of the carbon out of the head, or just leave it to naturally dissipate? I'm worried about chunks getting down in the cylinder if I do any cleaning.......

Ken300D

This is the 1987 300D - 346k Miles

Don't sell it dude. I dream of the day I can own a 300d or 420 turbo d. try the glo plugs....thing as others suggested...but I'm sure you'll regret it DRCS 85 190D
Don't teach her how to drive a stick in your car...use somebody elses...a more forgiveable transmission to allow her to get the feel w/o hurting your baby

I just performed the opposite. I own two 2001 Jetta TDIs and I just purchased a 1998 E300 TD. I am going to have to sell one of the TDIs and I wish I did not have to! I drive 130 miles per day and my I have been averaging 50 mpg. My Jetta is Upsoluted (modified ECU) and I drive between 70 mph and 80 mpg. Jettas are a dream to drive. Very tight.

The only problems we have had are the power windows. My wife had to have her Jetta in the shop twice for the same problem, different window. Cheap window regulator!

I am going to sell my Jetta, if interested. 55,000 miles on a 2001 GLS TDI. Either way, be sure to check Fred's TDI forums. I lurked there for months before deciding to purchase the first one. Fred's is a great community meeting place to learn about the TDI motor. You will not regret your decision to purchase one.

SpannMan

P.S. Feel free to contact me if you have other TDI questions.