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#1
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Teflon Additive / SLICK50
Hello All,
Just read the oil debate! I have always used Rotella in my diesels, approval ratings for diesel and neutralizers for byproducts etc. But recently at an oil change a bottle of slick50 was thrown in for free by the mechanic! Said try it if you dont like it I will change the oil for free you buy the oil. I said ok and for the past week the engine seems smoother and the shift points have moved lower, is it a change in my driving style/psychological or real. Does any one out there have any experience with this, as if it does help I intend to add slick50 to evey oil change. Thanks for your input.
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Diesel-Lover STABLEs STAR MEMBERS 190, 220-Missgreatly E300D95-Smoothassilk |
#2
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I stay away from additives and Slick 50 is just that, "slick"
![]() In 1997, three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. (the makers of Slick 50) settled Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated. According to the FTC complaint, claims such as the following made in Slick 50 ads falsely represented that without Slick 50, auto engines generally have little or no protection from wear at start-up and commonly experience premature failure caused by wear: "Every time you cold start your car without Slick 50 protection, metal grinds against metal in your engine." "With each turn of the ignition you do unseen damage, because at cold start-up most of the oil is down in the pan. But Slick 50's unique chemistry bonds to engine parts. It reduces wear up to 50% for 50,000 miles." "What makes Slick 50 Automotive Engine Formula different is an advanced chemical support package designed to bond a specially activated PTFE to the metal in your engine." In fact, the FTC said, "most automobile engines are adequately protected from wear at start-up when they use motor oil as recommended in the owner's manual. Moreover, it is uncommon for engines to experience premature failure caused by wear, whether they have been treated with Slick 50 or not." |
#3
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I agree with w126....although....
I did use slick 50 in a Toyota mini van I had a few years ago. I'll be honest, the engine started and ran better and was much quieter and my fuel mileage did go up about 10-15%.
Was is all in my head,,,,possibly, but man the stuff sure seemed to work. My dad had the same experience with an old 1977 Ford pick-up that he is still driving. PS, I don't use it in my 300D and I don't plan on it. JCD |
#4
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Duralube
I have'nt tried Slick 50 but last time I changed my oil I used Duralube because it says it's safe for diesels. I could see some changes, quicker starting and a small improvement in the smoothness at idle. I guess it's worth the 15 bucks.
Dave |
#5
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I try and stay away from additives such as Slick 50 and Duralube. I do however use a little Power Punch and all it does it slows down some of my oil leaks.
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#6
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Where is Rick? Another oil thread is here. Somebody get a rope!
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#7
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It's all in the chemistry. Many of the compounds in those additives, such as zinc dialkyldithiophosphate are already in motor oil, so you're just adding more of a good thing, that can lead to deposit formation on your valves, spark plug fouling and deterioration of catalytic converters.
Some of those additives may "help" motors that have ALOT of miles and have low compression -- like a "band aid". But I don't see the need for their use in healthy, well maintained engines. |
#8
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Pseudoscientific experiment
All those with topsider (able to remove measured amount of oil)
Two weeks or a tank (fuel) before you are scheduled to change your oil, remove a quart and add a bottle of teflon additive and see if there is a difference. Make notes as to what and or how. We can start a new thread to keep track of all the results Thanks spannman I will look for one myself (topsider).
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Diesel-Lover STABLEs STAR MEMBERS 190, 220-Missgreatly E300D95-Smoothassilk |
#9
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You'll need a control.
![]() Same model, year and mileage with the similiar maintenance and forgo the additive. (just kiddin' around, but would be interesting!!) |
#10
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Teflon additives work just exactly as advertized. They do reduce friction, make starting easier, and increase milage.
They also cost about $2 a quart if added to oil, and they won't stick permanently to the metal, so they go out with the oil when you change it. If people won't pay the extra for synthetic oil, no oil company is going to add $2 to the price of regular oil by adding teflon. It won't hurt a thing, but it is very expensive for what it does. I use synthetics instead, am very happy. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#11
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Gang, you all need to go to this web page and read...
http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil_myths.shtml This will answer ALL your questions about syn, dino oil and all those snake oil additives... Happy reading..
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99 C230K Sport 87 300SDL 81 300SD |
#12
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Good site Jay...
Slick-50 and the other additives that contain polytetrafluoroethylene (or Teflon) is a solid that coats non-moving parts like oil passages and filters. If it can build up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures and virtually no friction. |
#13
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Sorry about resurecting this old thread. But, I changed my oil and filter yesterday, will not mention brand. I added 1 quart of Slick50. Prior to change my at temp oil pressure was around 1.5, after the change it now sits a hair over 2. Can't begin to explain this, but I like the new pressure...
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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... ![]() Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner ![]() 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... ![]() 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) ![]() 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#14
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The Teflon chunks are NOT recomended to be floating around in the motor per its manufacturer. They will get picked out in the filter and in some cases clog small passages.
They willl NOT coat parts. Lot of research has been done and all the independent results lean towards the negative. I used this once, did no good, had wristpin noise on startup by 90,000 miles adn was the sole owner from new, car NEVER passed 3,000 miles before oil changes with most at 2-2,500. And I used it per the recomendations. Then I heard independent results after the car was history. Won't touch the stuff now if you paid me.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#15
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I've owned four VW Diesels in the past (early Diesels, not TDI) and used Duralube in all of them. These cars were all pre-owned when I bought them. My experience was always positive- improved power, less noise, slightly better fuel milage, and no apparent complications. My last one, an '89 Golf was still going strong at 400,000+ with regular oil changes every 5000 and Duralube every 50,000, but the floor rotted out under it, along with other major rust that wasn't worth fixing.
By the way- for Duralube and Slick-50, you don't put it in with every oil change- more like every 50k I think. Not sure if I'll use anything in my 300D- seeing all the downside spoken of on the Diesel iscussion makes me hesitant. Dave '76 300D W115 "Pearl" |
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