Why Put Transmission Fluid In Diesel Tank? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 12-09-2002, 01:57 AM

I used ATF a few times, but sopped when a former co-worker told me that it was a bad idea.

slowmoe · #17 12-09-2002, 09:10 AM

BJ300SDL,

Thanks for the info. I thought that it was neccessary to run some sort of anti-gel additive continuously throughout the winter months. It seldomly goes below 0*f in Pennsylvania.

BJ300SDL · #18 12-09-2002, 06:48 PM

Slowmoe

We were so busy at work that I totally forgot to look up the specs. ,sorry!

As far as continuous use of fuel additives I wouldn't recommend it they told us that extended use of it will erode nozzle tips.That is probably on new direct injection fuel systems that get anywhere from 20,000 to 30,000 psi at the nozzle tip. On precombustion chamber engines like my 300sdl I think it only gets up to a few hundred psi so it might not have the same effect. But you might as well save your money and not put the additive in unless you really need it.

If it rarely gets below zero I would just run good #2 diesel fuel and thats it.

slowmoe · #19 12-09-2002, 09:17 PM

Bj300SDL,

Thanks again. I would still be interested in the specs for the fuel additive.

On a different note, what do you think of continual use of additive for lubrication of the injection pump?

kweimer · #20 12-09-2002, 09:24 PM

I have generally viewed anything added to diesel fuel as snake oil---other than adding gasoline in recommended quantities in colder climates. If "it don't run right, fix it". No "Engine Overhaul in a Can" which I'm sure you have all seen at your local parts store.
Ken

BJ300SDL · #21 12-09-2002, 10:06 PM

Slowmoe, diesel fuel is a good lubricant by itself. Basiclly engine oil lubricates everything in the pump except the barrel & plungers or pumps as some people call them. I have disassebled Cat fuel systems with excess of 1.5 million miles and the barrel & plungers were reuseable. From my experiences run clean high quality fuel and change both fuel filters when called for and that in itself is the best thing you can do.

Remember, diesel fuel is a very fine oil.

They say you can add gasoline to diesel fuel to run in colder temps. I will never do this because gasoline takes away the lubricant properties of the diesel fuel.

I've had first hand experience with this. I'm sure you've heard of RYDER truck rental, about every six months or so we will get a truck that mom & pop rented from RYDER and before they bring it back they fill both tanks with gasoline. They only run the engine a couple of miles and we have to refill the tanks with diesel and replace all six injectors or pumps. Further inspection reveals that the barrel & plungers have bad sieze marks due to lack of lubrication from the gasoline. I prefer to use keroseen or #1 blended with #2 because they are all fuel oils. Besides they run straight #1 in Alaska so I know it's good around here.

ezrider · #22 12-10-2002, 11:18 AM

Can anyone here comment on how long 603 injectors/tips are good for? mine have 147K miles on them?

Thank you.

BJ300SDL · #23 12-10-2002, 09:43 PM

Slowmoe, I've done some research in the past few days and this is what I've come up with.

There is a huge amount of information out there!!

On average #2 diesel fuel starts to gel 15*f below the cloud point which is 32*f. This is when it just starts. Just remember that the fuel tank in your MB is in the car not out,and the fuel filter is under the hood where the engine heat is and finally like our car you might even have a fuel heater already installed.So even if it is 10*f outside when you are driving down the road your fuel might be at 45*f.Thats why I don't get concerned untill it gets below zero.

There are many types of fuel,keroseen,jet fuel, bunker oil, fuel oil and diesel fuel just to name a few. And there are many variants of each type. The military has several different types of arctic fuels.

The most common contaminant....Water, and it does the most damage, it breaks down the lubricant layer and causes corrosion and sieze marks.

70% of all diesel fuel sold does'nt meet the minimum S.A.E. requirements.In other words if you buy your fuel from a small gas station that does'nt go through that much fuel don't be supprised that your buying a summer blend and your fuel might gel alot sooner because that fuel has been in the under ground tank for two months. Where I buy my fuel (at a truck stop/gas station) they go through 8000 gallons of diesel fuel a week. Each week they taylor the fuel dump according to weather conditions. They either have a #2 summer blend in the warm weather, #2 with additive in the cold months and in the coldest of weather they even offer a 50/50 mix of #2 and #1. So you see instead of doing a wiches brew every time I fill up I just do a little research and find a high quality fuel station let them do it for me and I've never had a problem.

psfred · #24 12-10-2002, 09:52 PM

Two approaches:

If you think they are sick, take them out and have them tested.

Otherwise, 250,000 miles or more is normal, if the pump isn't damaged and the filters were changed properly. Nozzles aren't usually a problem until you really pile the miles on.

Peter

Teamsaffold · #25 03-26-2010, 03:04 PM

OK I have read this (very old) thread carefully. Lots of good advice and even some factually supported opinion. My question re adding something to the fuel is strictly in regard to lubrication for older engines. I am talking about sulphur. Here are two facts that I believe to be solid. One, when my 1984 300SD was designed and built for the US market, it was intended to run on the diesel fuel of that time. Two, that fuel had significantly higher sulfur content. Now, I move from fact to opinion. I'm am told that the sulphur helped lubricate various parts of the engine and injection system. So, the best fuel for this vehicle would have something to replace the lubricating quality of the removed sulphur. More opinion, ATF does this. However, if it also produces some other ill effects then maybe not a good idea. It does seem clear that adding some form of lubrication would be beneficial. So, what to add and how much?

compress ignite · #26 03-26-2010, 03:40 PM

5% Bio-Diesel will be sufficient.

dagObx · #27 03-27-2010, 02:04 PM

If you can't get bio, try TWC-3 two-cycle oil. Add it 1 oz. per gallon of fuel & your fuel system will thank you. Be sure to use the ashless type...

Cr from Texas · #28 03-27-2010, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dagObx

If you can't get bio, try TWC-3 two-cycle oil. Add it 1 oz. per gallon of fuel & your fuel system will thank you. Be sure to use the ashless type...

My regular addition is 12 oz of TWC-3 and 2 oz Soltron per fill up. TWC-3 is designed to add lubricity to gasoline at 1:50. I would think a lower amount would be adequate for diesel due to the higher lubricity of diesel vs gasoline. Since I started doing this, I notice a lot smoother idle.

I'm sold on Soltron as an antimicrobial cure and preventative. I don't drive a lot of miles so a tank of diesel might last two or more weeks. Cost of prevention vs the headache of cleaning a tank is a bargin in my application. If I drove more miles, I'd probably do Soltron on a weekly basis.

I was taught 25 years ago to fill my main filter with ATF when I changed filters. That always worked and it made the engine run really smooth when first started. But I've now switched to filling with diesel as the new formulations of ATF probably contain components that would not burn as well as those in the older formulations.

If I could buy B5 or higher biodiesel, I would do that and leave out the TCW addition.

zenuff · #29 03-27-2010, 03:04 PM

What do you guys think of Marvel Mystery Oil? I have been using it in my gasoline cars for last couple years. I have hard it is similar to ATF. I was thinking trying some when I get my diesel.

Also, what is considered a biocide? Does SeaFoam qualify as such?

compress ignite · #30 03-27-2010, 03:12 PM

Startron

"Star Tron disperses bacteria, allowing the fuel filtration system to function efficiently. Reduces all emissions, including carcinogenic particulate smoke. Prevents fuel oxidation and stabilizes diesel chemistry for at least two years. Lowers fuel system maintenance. Eliminates carbon build-up on injectors and exhaust components. Increases fuel economy, especially in older engines. Eliminates moisture in fuel by dispersing it into sub-micron size that can be safely burned off during combustion.

Because it treats water in fuel, Star Tron aids in fuel gelling issues; with the moisture removed, it cannot be converted to ice cystals at low temperatures that in turn can lead to gelling. For severe low-temperature applications, we suggest using a pour-point depressant."