Trouble Setting IP Timing - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gsxr · #31 01-02-2003, 04:08 PM

Hmmm. Yep, you could have a carbon problem. I don't think low compression can cause nailing but I'm not 100% sure. The prechambers require 2 special tools to remove. The first is a "pin wrench" that you use to unscrew the lock ring that holds the prechamber in place. The second is an adapter that you screw into the prechamber itself, and attach to a slide hammer to yank it out of the head (may take lots of hammering).

The lowest price for the pin wrench, that I have found, is from Performance Produts at $63 plus S&H. I wouldn't attempt to make this tool. The slide hammer is nothing special, the best price for the hammer + adapter is at Baum Tools for $74. Or if you already have a slide hammer, you can buy the adapter only from Baum for $37. Prices are about a year old so they may have gone up a little bit.

Don't forget to remove the glow plug BEFORE attempting to remove the prechamber!

Before all that, though, I'd remove the offending glow plug and see if it requires some force to remove (doen't fall out after you loosen it). If so, try reaming the glow plug hole first before pulling the p/c. You can isolate the cylinder by starting the car cold, and immediately loosening one metal injector line at a time... when the noise stops, that's the injector. Tighten the line again and the noise should come back. Make sense?

#32 01-02-2003, 10:05 PM

gsxr

I may try to take your first suggestion,

Quote:

Perhaps one of them got a tiny piece of debris in there that is making the pintle stick? Weird

I have some standyne additive, well see where that gets me. When I do arrive at home, it is running smooth with no nailing, so it looks more and more like a preheat problem. That slide hammer thing sounds scary, my experience with slide hammers is things that break

Loosening the line makes sense, I have not tried that yet with the new injectors.
I was busy at work today, and did not get a chance to download the pictures. I will try to get it done tomorrow so I can send it over the weekend. What books did you decide to order?

PeterG

79 300 SD

240 Ed · #33 01-05-2003, 09:45 AM

Larry,

When timing my 240, I found that I was 180 degrees off on the pump. I think that is what happened anyway...

But one thing I am sure of, the drip method works like a charm! I could not get it to work for a long time (and was having the same frustration as you).

I did some posts/questions too, do a search for "240Ed" in user and "pump" in search item...

#34 01-05-2003, 09:54 AM

Yes, the drip method works great. I've successfully used it many times.

In my case for two reasons I'm sure that I was not off 180 degrees. First, the cam mark was aligned and the cam lobes for number one were in the compression stroke position.

I have had my shop stall tied up for a week waiting for a belt tensioner for my 300E that is torn apart in wait, so I have not been able to pursue this any further yet.

If I can't come up with an IP, I will get some of the manuals above and find out what's wrong with the pump.

Have a great day,

#35 01-05-2003, 03:10 PM

PeterG,

Do you know which series inline pump is on the 617 engines? They refer to VE, VF, PE, etc. I would like to know exactly which one it has.

Thanks for your posts and the answer to my question.

Have a great day,

jbaj007 · #36 01-05-2003, 05:55 PM

617.951 uses PE series.

#37 01-05-2003, 06:51 PM

Thanks jbaj007!

Now, according to the description of the manuals on the web site, they don't indicate that there are assembly/disassembly instructions in the manual that was recommended by PeterG. Does it indeed have this info.?

Have a great day,

#38 01-05-2003, 08:45 PM

LarryBible,GSXR
I have the picutres of the IP internals, but I do not know how to post the nine pictures. The first attempt would not post all nine, just the last one of the special tool I made. How do I post all the pictures?

PeterG

gsxr · #39 01-05-2003, 10:24 PM

Peter,

To post photos, you have 2 options (at least from my understanding of the forum)...:

1- If each photo is less than ~65kB, and smaller than roughly 800x600 (I forget what the actual limit is), you can subit one at a time with the "attach file" box right below where you type your post. When you submit the post, it uploads the photo to the M'Shop.com web server.

2- If you have web space from your ISP or hosting service, and you have 9 URL's to the photos, you can click the 'IMG' button right above where you type your post. It will prompt you for the image URL. Repeat 9 times, all in the same post, then submit the reply.

There may be other ways too, I'm not sure. If you really can't get anything to work, email the photos to me at "rc51@cableone.net" and I'll try to upload & post them.

Kennyandco · #40 01-12-2003, 04:22 AM

Larry:

I have driven my 83 300D for years before a figured out how to adjust the vacuum control valve and stop the engine flare from 2-3 shift.

I had very bad cold engine performance: smoke and rough idle. It would improve as it warmed up. Did the drip test and got fast drips. I could not adjust it to "one drip per second" at 24 BDTC. Removed the IP (about three hours + and a big mess) and found the notch was a few teeth off. Set the IP, and reinstalled. I was able to adjust the timing to the "one drip per second" and found a great improvement.

I can't believe I driven this car with those problems for so long. Now, I can really enjoy the car. These repairs were made with no $$ (except the IP gasket) thanks to this forum.

240 Ed · #41 01-12-2003, 08:06 AM

Quote:

In my case for two reasons I'm sure that I was not off 180 degrees. First, the cam mark was aligned and the cam lobes for number one were in the compression stroke position.

Larry, I am not talking about the valve timing here, but the IP timing.
When I put the cam and crank timing spot on (as you did)--then pulled my IP, the pump was 180 degrees off! I turned the pumps timing mark around to where it was supposed to be and reinstalled, and Voila!

I don't know how the IP got turned around, but there you are...

#42 01-12-2003, 10:36 AM

Thanks for all the great replies, but let me clarify my problem with some history.

When overhauled and reassembled the engine over a year ago, I had the IP timed perfectly and the engine ran perfectly. The transmission was not right, and I have sinced worked through that, but the engine was perfect.

Then the smoking problem entered that picture. It was the smoking problem that I was beginning to work through when I started this thread.

After doing all the things I described in the initial post of this thread, I am becoming more and more convinced that the problem is something serious in the IP.

The rest of the car mechanically is VERY solid. Now the transmission works, I have the a/c tight and working well, the heater, all accessories, uses no oil, etc. It is not cosmetically perfect, but for a 22 year old car it actually "stands tall."

I am also working through an intermittent problem with my 300E and have limited funds to work with at this moment in time.

The IP splines are the same as they were when it was running perfectly and the chain is in the same position. I am at the point, I plan to next check compression just to be sure, then remove the IP and do something with it. I will attempt repairing it myself with the help of all these great posts, or I will replace or have itrebuilt.

Thanks again,

Stevo · #43 01-12-2003, 01:44 PM

Larry what happened to the one you were going to borrow? Seems that would tell the story real quick.

jbaj007 · #44 01-12-2003, 04:13 PM

I bought a spare Bosch PES5MW55 (for turbo). MB# 617-070-50-01. You're welcome to borrow it, but I don't think it will tell you much since it has the turbo fuel supply curve, ALDA, etc. I got it from these guys..http://www.world-parts.com/othdir/usdetail.asp?id=200350

The price was ridiculously low on eBay (~$40) and I see that they list the IP's often (~$75, now). I found Elite Foreign Auto easy to work with and shipping was ~$20 in a nice wooden box. Times change, but I'd give them a call and see if they have an 80-81 300D model. I think yours is a 617-070-24-01 or 617-070-34-01.

Email me if you feel borrowing mine would be of help and we'll work out details. Good luck.

#45 01-13-2003, 06:59 AM

Thanks for the info on the inexpensive IP.

I really don't want to borrow one for troubleshooting purposes. Since the Oil filter housing has to be removed and the oil cooler lines are also in the way, I don't want to change it temporarily as a troubleshooting step.

I will remove the pump and; repair it myself, replace it or send it out for repair.

I also am afraid to move it into the shop and tear it down at this point until I've squared away the intermittent problem on my 300E. If I tear the 300D apart and need the shop stall, it will put me in a bind. It's the only place right now where I can work in comfort. My other two stalls are taken up in keeping my Vette and my 203 car out of the weather. Anyone want to buy a Vette?

Have a great day,