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Chevron Delo EC-1 coolant....LONG Life!
After replacing the heater control valve today, I flushed my cooling system and heater core out. I am now using Chevron DELO EC1 pre-mixed coolant. This coolant is used in Big Rigs and has a 600,000mi or 12,000hour life span. It is recommended for aluminum engines also. I bought it at a petroleum distributor. It is a 50/50 mix with de-ionized water pre packaged. It is approved by ALL of the major engine companies...Caterpilar, Navistar, Cummins, Mack, Detroit Diesel, Ford, and GM. It has a temperature span of -34 to +265 degees F with a 15lb cap. The price is reasonable at $7.50 a gallon for the pre-mix. They also sell a concentrate to mix 50/50 but it wasn't much cheaper once you figured it out.
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
#2
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I generally only use MB coolant in my cars and in my customer's cars but I have used Shell Rotella ELC which has the same properties as the Delo coolant. Very good stuff, but I get the original MB coolant at a good price with my dealership account that it's actually more cost-effective for me to use the MB original product. Besides that, I get two gallons for the same price as one gallon of pre-diluted ELC costs.
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Regards, Aaron |
#3
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Aaron, It is good to get a thumbs up from a professional on this coolant. I have chosen to try this as the 240 sits alot. I also have a Cummins in my Dodge and the concensis is this is a good coolant for the cummins diesel which is a full cast iron engine. The costs are more but I hope the extended intervals will defray the extra cost. I guess we all are looking for a better mouse trap. Chris
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
#4
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It's nice that all those engine mfr's have backed the Delo coolant, but there's one notably missing: Mercedes-Benz! MB only specs MB coolant for their engines, period. The problem isn't aluminum in the system, it's the PLASTIC in the MB radiators (and aux heater pumps, etc.) Although the Delo may not cause any problems short term, I'd switch back to OE dealer coolant from MB at the next change. It's available from Internet retailers for $10/gallon, which is cheaper than the Delo as you only need 1 gallon per car (unless you live in a REALLY cold area).
Just don't EVER EVER use the orange Dex-Cool garbage! Do a search on Google, there's some scary horror stories on this stuff. NOBODY has ever had a problem with the MB coolant, although the "green" coolants have cause problems in MB's with the plastic turning brittle & seals leaking. HTH,
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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#5
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What is everyone's impression on using MB coolant in non-MB products - like Ford and Chevy gas engines .... I have an older Explorer (94 - all iron) and a Suburban (2000 - aluminum) ... Ford uses older style, Chevy uses DexCool ... is MB product suitable replacement?
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George Stephenson 1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet) former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car former 1985 300 CD - great car former 1981 300 TD - good car former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg |
#6
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IMO, the MB coolant is great stuff and can probably be used safely in almost any engine. The only real drawback is the cost, most dealers want $12+/gallon, my local dealer wants $16.50! As long as you can get it for ~$10 or so I say go for it. I have used it in my VW with no problems. Just make sure you replace it every 2-3 years. It is different in formualtion than everything else on the market - one or two other products are similar, but not identical.
As for Dex-Cool, after reading a little on the Internet about it, I can't believe GM still sells the stuff... let alone fill new cars with it! ![]() Regards,
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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#7
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Well, as I said. In my Mercedes it's pretty much original MB stuff only. In my only non-MB (the Triumph) I use the Shell Rotella ELC along with a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter.
I would imagine that the MB coolant would be just fine in other vehicles. Although as I understand it, the GM vehicles designed for DEX-COOL must have that only. As for other types of coolants in MB, I would strongly advise to stay away from the green stuff. If you don't want to use original MB coolant, get the Shell Rotella ELC or Delo equivalent. The Rotella is a reddish color, don't know about the Delo. The nice thing about the Rotella is that it's available pre-diluted at Pep Boys for $8.50 so it's easy to come by for those who are not near dealerships.
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Regards, Aaron |
#8
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Aaron,
Is there any way for a normal Joe to get a discount at the MB parts counter?
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1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus 1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold 1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold 1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction |
#9
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You can try asking for an MBCA member discount and hope they don't ask for you card (Mercedes Benz Club of America). That was good for 10% off at my dealer.
This was, of course, before I discovered you could get dealer parts at wholesale cost via Internet (wholesale being 20% off MB list price). Most dealers charge 10-100% over list price (no, that's NOT a typo). The only time I buy from the dealer is if I desperately need a part *that same day* and they have it in stock. I don't ever special order from them. It's faster & cheaper for me to order directly, I get it drop-shipped from MB to my door via FedEx and don't need to drive 30 miles to the dealer to pick it up! ![]()
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#10
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Just wondering, what do you all think about the Water-Wetter stuff? I have never tried it, although I have been tempted.
And you only need 1 gallon of the M-B coolant? Way cool ![]() Actually, how would one go about doing a coolant flush? I need to change the coolant, along with replacing at least the upper radiator hose (I feel stuff crackling whenever I squeeze it)...and I figure that the cooling system on this car could use a good flushing; who knows when it was last done...? Also, while we're on the subject of coolant, (other than Ford guys ![]()
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2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver 1991 Ford F-350, work in progress 1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D Spark-free since 1999 Last edited by The Warden; 02-20-2003 at 03:45 AM. |
#11
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Quote:
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#12
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What has been killing me on internet shopping is the shipping cost. Last week I did all four brakes and rotors. The dealer wanted $298. After shipping my cost was $265. For $33 I seriously considered having them the day I wanted them and being assured of the correct parts.
I have 2 MB dealerships within 20 minutes of me and figure that if I can get their parts at an upcharge equal to that of the internet parts plus shipping, I would do it.
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1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus 1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold 1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold 1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction |
#13
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Slowmoe, several of the Mercedes specialist internet parts sellers offer free shipping if the parts are over $50 or $75. That includes heavy stuff like brake rotors & calipers. I'd try a different source! Four rotors & two pad sets for a 123 or 124 should have been under $200 with shipping, IMO...
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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! Last edited by gsxr; 02-20-2003 at 09:45 AM. |
#14
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Hi Warden,
I love Water Wetter and add one bottle at every coolant change. MB coolant is indeed non-diluted. In warm areas (i.e., California, most of the southern US) you don't need a 50/50 mix so 4qts a/f and 6qts water (or whatever your car takes) is PLENTY. I actually only used 2qts a/f when I lived in balmy Sacramento. Up here in Idaho though I need a full 50/50 mix, which is a pain. For a flush, drain the system, including the block drain on the side under the turbo. Disconnect some hoses and stick the garden hose in there to thoroughly get all old a/f out. You may want to use a radiator flush like SuperFlush or Super Radiator Cleaner if you never have in the past. Then repeat the water flush, drain fully, add 4 qts MB a/f, 1 bottle WW, and top off the rest with clean water (I used distilled). Watch the water level & temp gauge closely when you start the engine, as there is often an air pocket that must be "burped" out. Check the other hoses while you're at it, too. Oh, and don't ever stick a garden hose with cold water into a warm/hot engine! I drain & flush only when cold, or let it cool down before I do it. ![]()
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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#15
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GSXR, where is this place you deal with in parts, would like to know for future reference if I have a problem locating a OEM part.....
Regards, Rich
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Rich 1990 300CE 71 Chevelle SS 454 |
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