help please with loose part on front of my 300SD's engine - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Larry Delor · #31 03-09-2003, 11:04 PM

I want to point out that the two metal dowels are not exactly 180 degrees apart. One is just a smidgeon closer to the other. Depending on which side is up, its more like either 182 or 178 degrees. Along with the compact, you will want to have a flashlight, so you can see something.

I am trying my darndest to remember if it is one solid disc, or if it has an inner and outer ring, held together by some sort of "stuff".

IF...it does end up breaking, and you shear the big 27mm bolt, you will loose your alternator, your a/c, and your waterpump. Then, your only choice would be to remove everything that is loose and dangling around, and turn on the heat (aux. waterpump will circulate coolant through the heater) and idle along for a few hundred yards (or when ever it gets too hot - but you cant be sure, because the thermostat isnt getting its usual amount of fluid passing by, so you won't have an accurate reading) and then wait till it cools down, and drive a little bit more - repeat this until you get to Tampa. You should be here before summer is over.

I am sorry to hear that this is happening to you and your Benz. Especially since you are stuck somewhere else but home. I do wish you luck, and a safe passage home.

btw...might want to call around for a used balancer/dampener.

-Larry

RG5384 · #32 03-09-2003, 11:51 PM

well my curiousity wouldn't have let me sleep tonight if i didn't pop open the hood and play with things a little bit. The pulley IS NOT loose, it seems very tight, as do all the belts. The part behind the metal ring in question is tight, i cannot move it with my hand. i tried to move the pulley any way that i could, and it would not budge. I was wrong in that i thought the viscous fan was attached to the crank, obviously(as many of you already know) it is not. The part in question is the metal disc shaped object DIRECTLY behind the various pulleys. I can turn it, move it up and down, wiggle it back and forth, i can move it every which way. It appears as if the object behind the loose disc had some sort of a rubber sealant on it that connected it to the loose disc. Once again, nothing off the crank is loose other than this one disc. I'm more confused than ever now......

Thanks for all your help once again, and i'm going to go look in the daytime tomarrow and see if i can determine anything else.
thanks again for all your help,
Ryan

RG5384 · #33 03-10-2003, 12:04 AM

after looking at a blown up image of the entire pully system on the crankshaft, it LOOKS to be as if there are two separate peices to the vibration dampner. According to the CD manual diagram, the part that i am visibly seeing as being loose is not attached with any bolts, but rather some sort of black substance(per diagram). Can anyone confirm that the dampener is in fact two peices held together by a rubber type substance?
thanks again
Ryan

jbaj007 · #34 03-10-2003, 12:49 AM

The vibration absorber (official name

) , a "rubbery stuff",and the counterweight, a metal "plate, are aligned with two dowels and then attached to the end of the crankshaft by the 27 mm. (1 1/16") bolt. Torqued to a gazillion newton-meters. The rubber deteriorates sometimes and this sounds like your problem. Do not drive without checking out the bolt. See why here:Crank pulley and balancer -- How did it come apart?

RG5384 · #35 03-10-2003, 12:52 AM

if this bolt checks out is it safe to say the car is driveable?

jbaj007 · #36 03-10-2003, 12:56 AM

If it is loose (ie that's the only problem) and everything lines up (dowels) and you can tighten it (lock the flywheel) to 200 ft-lbs.; then it might do the trick. I'd check out this thread:Haromonic Balancer: note of caution and this one:Failed 123 Diesel Harmonic Balancers

RG5384 · #37 03-10-2003, 01:21 AM

thanks for all your help. My looking at this picture(if it works, sorry about the poor quality, i had to get it within the size specs), it appears as if the part that is loose on my car is not bolted down at all, but rather simply held on by the rubber "stuff". It looks by the diagram as if the other part of the dampner is held on by the six bolts, and that the metal part that is loose on my car is simply glued to the other part. The part in question is number 20

jbaj007 · #38 03-10-2003, 02:03 AM

The picture is fine. Appears the vibration absorber has separated AFAIK, unfortunately. Iwould assume replacement is the only option, but must admit I haven't ever dealt with a failed one, only ones intact. Larry Bible would have insight on this, hopefully.

DR.DIESEL · #39 03-10-2003, 03:10 AM

Since that thing is seperating, and the outer ring has come loose.
It is just a matter of time until the balancing ring starts walking off
and does a really cool "hole-saw" demonstration on your timing case cover and oil pan. The last one of those I fixed ran about
$2000. You may want to re-think going for broke.
Broke is how most people end up after driving damaged cars.
Good Luck.
-DR.D

P.S. - MB Roadside Assistance. 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES

kerry · #40 03-10-2003, 12:16 PM

Randy:
In looking at the Mercedes shop manual for the 617 engine, I think your analysis may be correct. In one of the pictures it shows 'shading' between the damper and the piece through which the bolts attach the damper to the balancer. That 'shading' could be a glue or 'rubbery' substance of some kind. If that is where the problem lies, and the center bolt and allen bolts are tight, I don't think there is any damage to the crank yet.
I would say you have two choices at this point: Remove the pulley and vibration damper (I'm pretty sure this only requires the removal of the six allen bolts and not the more difficult central bolt) and replacing the damper with a new one or a used one from a junkyard. The other option, which may be possible if you can align the vibration damper up with its original position is to get a lot of 5 minute epoxy and glue it back on if you can clean it up enough. I don't think I'd recommend this second alternative unless the first was simply impossible.
I would still be reluctant to drive it in its current condition because the vibration caused by the loose damper may loosen the balancer and screw up the balancer in its attachment to the crank.

RG5384 · #41 03-10-2003, 12:39 PM

is buying a used vibrationd dampener a good idea? i can get a new one for 250 and a used one for 150. I'm getting so frusterated at this seemingly POS car. I just spent over 700 dollars on new shocks, front tires and alignment. I can't even count the number of repairs before that. I knew that some things would nickel and dime me with this car, but i really didn't expect 500 dollar repair bills. I may sell the car after i fix this and buy like an acura integra or something. I'm done with this mercedes BS. Sorry for the rant, thank you all very much for all your help, it is greatly greatly appreciated. once again sorry for ranting but i feel better now

thanks again,
Ryan

kerry · #42 03-10-2003, 12:50 PM

I can't answer your question authoritatively. I am under the impression that the balancer is tuned to the engine and the damper isn't. I may be totally wrong on that. If I am right, a used damper would be fine.
But, $150!!--no way. A Pick and Pull here in Denver would let one go for a lot cheaper. Look around, you might be able to find one cheaper. Maybe even someone on the list has an old engine sitting around and would be willing to donate it.
Shocks, tires, and alignment seem like general maintenance items to me, so I wouldn't complain about those. But a damper, that's another question. I'd blame it on the driveshaft you hit.

RG5384 · #43 03-10-2003, 12:58 PM

you really think that driveshaft could have caused this? i had a claim in, so i dont know if i'd be able to claim that as damaged caused or not anymore

kerry · #44 03-10-2003, 01:31 PM

Since I've never seen a post on this list before describing this separation I'd assume something must have happened to cause it. It seems possible that the driveshaft hit the outer edge of the damper, breaking it's bond to the rubbery stuff. What other damage did the driveshaft do? Any evidence it hit anything else on the front bottom of the engine compartment?

#45 03-10-2003, 02:38 PM

Ryan,

I tried to send an e-mail to you earlier, but not sure if it went out. If bolts are not seized, this is not a big job. If you’re worried about fluids in the dorm parking lot, you don't have to pull the radiator unless you have to get in there with a drill for broken/stripped bolts. I did this the other night on my 300SD to replace the front oil seal. Simple tools, simple job, it could be done in the breakdown lane of the interstate if you had all the stuff with you and a little good luck. E-mail me direct at zypher@aol.com and we can trade phone numbers if you want to discuss some of the details. I may be a little hard to catch today. If you plan to drive it three hundred miles just to fix it yourself there, you are making no sense.

Charley Huff