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#31
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1 - good points about petro v. bio-fuel (but dont forget that biodiesel is made with methanol, which is mainly produced from petro, and also requires lots of tractor miles when made from virgin soy which is what most large producers use because of the current regulatory benefits).
2 - Old300 - I dont know if I am more afraid of suspended metal particles in used eng oil damaging the IP, clogging the injectors, or entering the combustion chamber and scarring the cylinders and pistons? I dont hear anyone addressing anything except the IP... |
#32
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Plus, our engines were designed to run on diesel fuel, not diesel fuel with used motor oil. That's good enough reason right there for me there not to mix it in my fuel.
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. |
#33
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Quote:
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1983 300-D turbo 1985 300-D turbo 1959 Harley Panhead chopper 1929 Ford coupe restored I hang out with Boneheaddoctor at Schuman Automotive OBK#5 All liberals are mattoids but not all mattoids are liberal. |
#34
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I don't understand what the attraction is for some people to try and burn anything they can think of inside their engines. I won't even dump used oil in my beater SD. Because I don't have the time or will to deal with problems if they develope, and I don't want to mess with nasty old oil.
Pumping diesel fuel is enough of a hassle, I hate how the pumps are always covered in fuel.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#35
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guy
i saw a guy who only used motor oil
he owned a jiffy lube... and never had a problem.. if i change the oil i will dump the used in my gas tank.. |
#36
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Everyone dumping something other than biodiesel or #1 or #2 diesel fuel into your tanks, I don't want to know the long term effects you'll encounter will be, most likely not good.
The owners manual clearly states our cars are to run on #1 or #2 diesel ONLY, or in cold weather times when winterized #1 diesel is not available, a small amount of kerosene can be added to the #2 diesel to fight gelling. As of recently, MB has stated B5 is acceptable for use in their cars, but they haven't recommended a blend any higher until further tests are completed, but I think higher blends of biodiesel shouldn't cause trouble. I've never heard MB advocate using new or used motor oil, transmission fluid, other fuel additives, WVO, or SVO in our cars as a fuel or supplement. Reasons for not using used motor oil is all of the small metal particles in it (which any rational person would know is not good for fuel systems), transmission fluid which causes coking of injectors after long term use, fuel additives like Power Service and Redline are said to not show any benefits, but I'm doing a little experiment and will see if it does, mileage per gallon wise that is. WVO and SVO because WVO contains sugars, fats, dirt, and water, and SVO is more viscous than petrol diesel or biodiesel, and will cause engine damage eventually. I think those are pretty good reasons right there. These are Mercedes-Benzes, not children's toys. Run the proper fuel, and keep them out of junkyards and running for future generations to enjoy, don't give an engine premature death because you can't find somewhere to properly dispose of your motor oil after an oil change or because it's cheap. -Joe
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. |
#37
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Quote:
My previous point about filtering: You aren't getting any particles inside large enough to damage ANYTHING, let alone the relatively sloppy tolerances inside a cylinder. It's not like we are running a slurry, we are talking a few fine particles of lead and copper that will not harm steel. Do you know how small a micron is? And most engine oil is not recycled, it is burned anyway. Lots of industrial buildings use waste oil heaters. New engine oil is just that: straight from the refinery.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#38
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germans
the germans named our motors om617 and the om stands
for oil motor..... actually you would be better off running your 300 sd on old used filtered oil from the jiffy lube then you would be running 100% biodiesel... because the bio methonal will eat up the lines and seals.... where as the used oil might have a few particles of lead or dirt or something that would be filtered out... |
#39
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Quote:
![]() I don't know about you, but I'd rather change all of my fuel lines to viton and burn B100 rather than running 20 gallons of used motor oil. You go run your MB diesel on 100% used motor oil then, but don't sit there looking surprised when you get mechanical problems as a result. The OM in Oel Motor does not mean you can go run your OMxxx on pure used motor oil, that's not what they meant with the terminology. They meant Oel Motor as in DIESEL OIL MOTOR. The phrase "diesel oil" can be used interchangeably with the phrase "diesel fuel" as a synonym.
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. Last edited by H-townbenzoboy; 01-03-2006 at 01:09 AM. |
#40
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Why not just open the valve cover and dump in a can of comet?
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#41
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ok - good points all around - but please answer this poll:
would you rather work/live around the exhaust from a benz burning (A) #2 diesel fuel, (B) filtered used engine oil, (C) biodiesel, or (D) filtered/dewatered WVO ? |
#42
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(c)
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#43
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I think the worst thing VO puts off is a little bit of nitrous oxide, so I'd have to go with D.
That's having to BREATHE it. But, if we're just talking smell, maybe C if it smells less like hot oil. |
#44
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It is good to know that these engine will burn other substances. But since my car is a commuter i will also stick to #2 and every so often bio maybe once a month. I really don't want to risk anything with this engine breaking because parts are expensive. I would rather not chance it at all. Whereas if we do have some kind of disaster i can know that other fuels are availble to use for the moment. I would never run anything other than diesel long term. and i would have to vote for the biodiesel
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81' 300SD AKA "Big Helga" 84' 300D Euro spec (Veronika) 85' 300D NonCalifornia (Heidi) "We shall not fail or falter; we shall not weaken or tire...Give us the tools and we will finish the job." -Winston Churchill, 1941 "I'll have a Chinchilla!" |
#45
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Quote:
d,c,a,b From the point of view of my engine: a,c,d,b (although I'd never seriously consider using d or b) |
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