Can turn the crank? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PiP · #1 06-02-2003, 04:59 PM

Car has been sitting for a year.
Anyway, went to turn the crank by hand, cant budge it.
In fact, broke a socket extension prying on it.
Tried the starter, won't budge it either.

What do you think I should do?

Would opening an injector help?

Thanks,
PiP 1977 300D

engatwork · #2 06-02-2003, 05:02 PM

Start out slow. Remove the injectors and pour some ATF in there. Let it sit there a day or two and put a good strong 27 mm with long extension on there and try again. If it still won't turn pull the head and try to see what is going on.

PiP · #3 06-02-2003, 05:38 PM

Going to buy a new extension right now.

Will keep you posted,
PiP

engatwork · #4 06-02-2003, 05:56 PM

oh yea, leave the injectors out when you try to turn it.

P.E.Haiges · #5 06-02-2003, 06:30 PM

Pip,

The cylinder walls are probably rusted preventing the pistons from sliding in them. It might be just one or two cylinders, the ones that had the valves open that let in moisture.

If that is what is wrong, you will have to remove the pistons one at a time and hone the cylinder walls.

P E H

#6 06-02-2003, 06:32 PM

I think this may be the reason the car has been sitting for a year.. I have started a 617 turbo engine that had been sitting for 3+ years with no such problems.. I wouldn't expect that type of corrosion in just 1 year.

#7 06-02-2003, 06:57 PM

Wonder if the car froze while sitting and busted a water jacket?

PiP · #8 06-02-2003, 10:12 PM

It doesnt freeze here.

Anyway, how much ATF to put down the injector holes?

Two capfuls?

PiP

Wasuchi · #9 06-02-2003, 10:28 PM

If you don't know why it was sitting pulling the valve/cam cover will show if the chain broke or something else involving the valves. If the chain broke that could be why it won't turn over..... broken or bent stuff in the bottom end.

PiP · #10 06-03-2003, 03:22 AM

Let me clarify.
It was sitting because the trans went out.
So the engine was running fine when it was stored a year ago.

It has to be rust in the cylinders.
Now I just have to get it free (note I didnt use the word break).

PiP

engatwork · #11 06-03-2003, 05:49 AM

You don't need alot of atf. An ounce in each cylinder should do it. You want to cover the piston where the fluid completely covers the outer edge.

Antony · #12 06-03-2003, 07:29 AM

If you can, aerosolize the ATF when injecting it. Use a straw, stick one end in the ATF container, then blow compressed air over the top of the other end. This will create a "spray" that will also coat the walls of the cylinder, not just the tops of the pistons (although the top of the piston is where the interference is). Best of luck.

leathermang · #13 06-03-2003, 08:10 AM

"It doesnt freeze here."

Then you are eligible to come to the next Texas Get together.....

leathermang · #14 06-03-2003, 08:18 AM

Tell us more about this... ", broke a socket extension prying "..
Do you mean a 3/8 ths extension ? a 1/2 inch extension ? or maybe split a deep socket itself ?
What length handle are you using ? it is very hard to turn with a regular 1/2 inch ratchet... an 18 inch 'breaker' ( sorry) bar is much easier.
And what do you mean by "prying" ?

ARE YOU SURE you are TURNING it the correct direction ?

I let my 81 wagon sit for about 2 years... and when TxBill bought it and tried to start it ... it started, even with the old fuel , in less than 2 seconds.... I was amazed.....

If you take out the injectors or the glowplugs, so you don't work against compression... it should turn with less than 100 lbs of torque....

#15 06-03-2003, 08:29 AM

Warning!

When you remove the injectors and put ATF in the cylinders, DO NOT PUT THE INJECTORS BACK IN UNTIL THE ATF IS OUT!

The ATF in the cylinders is a good idea, but turn everything by hand and don't put it under compression until you have turned the motor with the starter to blow most of the ATF out of the cylinders. Diesels have tiny combustion chambers and you could end up trying to compress liquid if you're not careful.

Good luck,