OM603 ALDA removal instructions - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #46 07-28-2011, 01:54 PM

for new members

Dave Donaldson · #47 11-15-2011, 08:24 AM

re 300 dsl 87 350 k's Cheers and thank you ,,,I would not have tried this without your instruction,,, my car is very slow off the line and when I got it in June this year,, it had been sitting for 3 years. Been adding cleaner to the fuel and it's getting some what better 4000 k's but I still would like to remove the jet and clean it and adjust,,, wish me luck cause I'll need it

gsxr · #48 11-15-2011, 02:14 PM

Slow off the line is lack of fuel off idle, before boost builds. Most likely you can shim the ALDA (or remove the tamper seal and adjust the setscrew) to perk it up. For a quick test, try removing the ALDA and go for a spin, see if the power is significantly improved or not.

Dave Donaldson · #49 11-15-2011, 02:37 PM

wow what difference,,, 4 times better accel of line with just a wee puff of black smoke,, eng cold too. THANK YOU !! FOR YOUR GREAT POST !!!wHEN i FINE TUNE IT I will try 1 mm and 1.25 mm now 1.5 mm btw guessing your into bikes me too
84 gpz 900 r 85 and 84 kz 1000 3 of them and a few others cheers gone go for spin

Orv · #50 11-15-2011, 03:45 PM

Does anyone have a source for the ALDA shims? I looked around locally for washers that size and couldn't find anything.

Dave Donaldson · #51 11-15-2011, 04:26 PM

I used washer,, drilled and gind the o.d. to fit,,, tricky,,, make sure there is no interference when you reassemble,,, I was thinking of using rubber/ viton O ring,,, some what compressible, and using the big nut you can try different settings but this just a theory. The friction of the o ring would act like lock tight if the nut torque is low

gsxr · #52 11-16-2011, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orv

Does anyone have a source for the ALDA shims? I looked around locally for washers that size and couldn't find anything.

Start with the closest size metal O-ring you can find, and grind/dremel as needed to fit. The ID is the more critical dimension, the OD can be a bit larger. Thickness will vary depending on how much you want to adjust.

I believe there are some factory Mercedes seal rings with dimensions very close to this, but I don't have the part numbers offhand.

Orv · #53 11-16-2011, 03:33 PM

I'm considering winding some copper wire in a flat spiral and soldering it...seems like that might be easier than grinding.

shertex · #54 12-29-2011, 12:28 PM

Does anyone know the exact thickness of one of the drain plug washers from an oil filter kit?

sixto · #55 12-29-2011, 01:46 PM

Used or unused?

I'd say thickness is specified to a very loose tolerance considering the number of sources and general irrelevance of thickness precision to sealing function. The thickest one in a population could be twice as thick as the thinnest one.

Then there's the question of whether you should use a copper or aluminum washer as a shim.

Sixto
87 300D

splondon2 · #56 07-08-2012, 10:28 AM

thanks for the reply, does the 87 300SDL hae a banjo bolt/screw that needs cleaning? or not i am not a mechanic, i just sell cars, but this is my daily driver and on the way to be a new father in 8 weeks, so financially strapped as I'm sure we all are
thanks

Brian Carlton · #57 07-08-2012, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by splondon2

thanks for the reply, does the 87 300SDL hae a banjo bolt/screw that needs cleaning?

Since you posted in the ALDA removal thread, I'm going to make the assumption that you already removed it?

If so, there is no pressurized supply from the manifold because there is no ALDA.

If you have not removed the ALDA, you need to check the overboost protection valve on the firewall to make sure that it flows air in the deenergized state (normal operation). The passage from the vertical fitting on the bottom to the horizontal fitting on the top needs to be clear.

The engine has no banjo bolt on the manifold that will clog.

gsxr · #58 07-08-2012, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

The engine has no banjo bolt on the manifold that will clog.

True, but it does have a straight hose fitting that can clog with goo from the intake (assuming the EGR is functioning normally, which it usually is).

This hose fitting on the intake manifold is easy to check, and easy to remove & clean out...

87Bielenberg · #59 11-02-2012, 09:48 PM

The other day I had my injector lines off to replace one that was leaking and I adjusted the ALDA without removing it. Took the nut all the way off and turned the screw with needle nose pliers. If you are gentle, you wont damage the screw, it is very easy to turn. The only tricky part is being careful not to drop the nut. Im not sure if you could do this with the fuel lines still on. In my opinion tho, taking the 4,5,6 lines off is simpler than trying to get the ALDA off and back on. Enjoy!

gsxr · #60 11-03-2012, 10:01 AM

There is some risk when removing the injector lines. You have to be extremely careful to ensure that no dirt or debris enters the fuel system, i.e. the open ports on the top of the IP and injectors. Even the tiniest speck of dirt can jam the injector pintle with frightening results. Don't ask how I know. Loosening the injector line nuts (but not completely unscrewing them or removing them from the fittings) is much safer and should allow the ALDA to come out, if it's otherwise trapped by the lines. Again, as shown in my photos, you can have the ALDA off the engine in less than 5 minutes...