Ok,

So the driver side axle boots are split all the way around (have become two halves) -- the one on the inside (next to diff) and the one on the outside (next to wheel)...

Just spent a bunch of time reading the posts about this and the one part that has me VERY confused is the issue of replacing the whole axle. I'm seeing the part as costs $300 or so... and that includes the whole "axle assembly" -- but then I'm reading something about going to Carquest and getting a rebuilt onw for $75.00 -- naturally I like I the Carquest idea -- but I'm not sure if this is the same thing or not.

Could somebody please explain this to me.

Also, I hear that if the boots are split like this, it is a good idea to replace the axle... why not just pop two new boots on there?

Thanks,
GD

When the boots are built, they pour the lubricant into the boot section and then seal it. The lubricant does not come from the differential. So since your boots tore, you have been running the ball bearing in the axel without lubrication. So the axel half that has the torn boot should be replaced. But since your doing the job you might want to replace both. Not necesary but consider it. If the boot was torn thru wear than the other axel may soon be approching the same problem. If it was torn BY something, then the other axel may be fine.
New or rebuilt!!
The Carquest axels are rebuilt. They grind the ball bearing race and then install new bearings and boots. The new ground races are not tempered so failure is something that could occur. Some posts show the failure rate with these rebuilds. The new ones are of course new and should last the 22 years and 175,000 miles that they have on them. But $80 or $375. You will have to make that decision.
Consider looking at the right axel and see the condition of the boots on that axel. Cracks are OK but no tears.
Consider appliing 303 Aerospace Protectant to the remaining boots if you do not replace them. It will help preserve the boots.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Since the boot is split You have probably lost all the grease and dirt has entered the 'CV joint'. This will eventauly grind up the ball bearings and all the other stuff in there. After time you will hear a growling and grinding noise when cornering.

I have heard death stories of the car quest rebuilds. when I did mine last year I did them both while I was in there. I took them to a local shop who had them ready the next day; about $150 per axle. No problems since and are guarenteed as long as the boot is not split. Areputable shop will rework the inner workings of both joints on each axle, repack and reboot, it will be like new when you get it back. They don't want thier work coming back and word getting around that they do poor work.


thebern

__________________
1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

Got it.

I'm thinking I'll pull the axle and send it out. I'm going to take VERY good look at the passenger side and take it from there.

The driver side I know both the inner and outer are split all the way around, so I'm going to start collecting my info on removal...

Thanks.

Easy DIY job. Carquest has them for $69/ea and Pepboys for $99/ea. Both offer lifetime warrantys so who cares if they die every few years? My local axle shop wanted $250/ea to rebuild..... Granted I blew an axle immediately after I installed them but I think I overextended the axle when I bolted it in. It was replaced under warranty and I have had no trouble in 12K. I say replace 'em both and move on. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

Oh, I know I had one more very stupid question... is one axle longer than the other? Or are they both the same?

Thanks,

GD

While I understand the use of new parts I couldn't justify the cost. The price I was quoted for new axles was obscene and simply not worth it for most of the cars on this board. Your money would be better spent on a AAA Gold membership if you are worried about getting stranded. At least AAA covers ALL mechanical failures and gets you home. Just my 2cents.... RT

__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

GD,

Do your axles still work OK...no vibration or strange noises ? You can change the boots if you have what it takes. It's not easy, but it can be done.

I doubt that the cheapy "rebuilts" will last as long as OEM axles or new parts. I recently re-booted a set of axles with 350K on them and they had very little wear . About 3k on them since. The slight wear was mostly at the points where the balls run in the forward drive position, so I swapped sides with the axles, which basically gives a fresh surface for the balls to ride on.

I used "uni-boots" and my own custom synthetic/X1R/ etc. mixture for lube.

More details I could go into ... but just throwing another option at you to contemplate. Brad.

__________________
Diesel-guy

I don't go the rebuilt axle route.. the exception is a LOBRO/GKN axle.

If your going local rebuild with an axle that is undamaged- ie no rotation play down the shaft- it will probably work. If not, don't expect it to last a long time.

Problem is simple- what parts are replaceable in an axle? The bearings? This is like putting new ball bearings in used races. Many rebuilders are using extrude-hone process to oversize the races. Yet to see one which re-hardened the race afterward.

I suspect if they do it all correctly- it should go 40-60,000 miles based on what I've seen. They will warrentee them ala "as many times as you want". But if you have the finances and will drive the car 5 +years, I'd consider new axles.

By the way- if you breakdown somewhere, you'll have to find a shop, parts, and loose wages. My salary for a day exceeds the cost difference of a new vs rebuilt axle.


Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

A question about the replacement procedure for an 83 300D; does the diff have to be opened to pop off any type of c-clip holding the axle in place? I sort of remember seeing this someplace but it might be regarding my 58 220 and not the diesel. My 2 cents, I think I'm just going with the carquest re-builds and an AAA gold like RT said :-)

rmm, yes, you have to uncover the rear diff. Then you need a special kind of pliers to pull the clip out. This is about as far as I can take you. But others know the exact type of pliers, etc.

Pete

Yes there is a c-clip for each axle. They are just simple circlip pliers, but what is important is they close as you squeeze them, some open. I'd also say you want them to bend 90* such that you can easily get on the circlip ears.

One of my first pages wrote are about changing these boots so there is more info there. If the insides are still wet with oil you might be able to change them but if any dirt or if they are dry then it'd probably be in your best interests to just replace them.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

No, you don't use circlip pliers on the clips inside the diff. There is a tab opposite the opening on the clip that you pull. The tab has a hole in it so you have something to grab. So you put a wire through the hole and simply pull the clip out. Now here's the secret: drape a towel over the area so the clip doesn't fly away. Mine flew at least 10 feet across the garage and took me 15 minutes to find. Not a fun time!

Edit, after rereading Jeff's post I see how he meant to use the circlip pliers. But they really aren't the right tool for the job.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

That is why I used the circlip pliers Rick. How did you get them back on? Circlip pliers have round defined knobs to get in the ear properly, I squeeze the handle and it really grabs that ear well. While I can't say mine didn't go flying at all it was under three feet when it did. I tried needlenose pliers at first but wasn't sold on it as it wasn't the easiest method.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

To put them back on I held the tab with a pair of pliers and pushed. Pretty simple there.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References