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#31
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i can tie two threads together at once
take off the air cleaner and clean the oily residue from it and then remove the intake manifold and clean it and while it sits attack the block heater.
yeah i do read the forum pretty indepth. will advise. |
#32
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Been using an espar heater on a closed loop heating system on the boat I work on to keep me warm
Those things work great...and it sips fuel from the keel fuel tank |
#33
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Pictures
Quote:
Inquiring minds want to see the unit in service. |
#34
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Quote:
Hopefully the weather is nice...I have to crawl down into the engine room to get to that espar heater. BTW this is a 24volt model. Very similar to the 12 but this boat is almost all purely 24V |
#35
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I'm still a fan of 'idling' because it just seems like vintage diesel.
I think my daughter at college idled through 4 or 5 nights last year. That would equate to 1.5 tanks or so. Not too bad of a price to pay when its below zero. I've tried to think of every type of way to avoid this....believe me. The best scenario for me is: 1. Extra battery with isolation unit (like an RV so you can't kill the main battery) 2. Timer 3. 12 vt source of heat (light or something on the block) dp
__________________
DAILY DRIVERS: '84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's) '99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's) '97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's) '97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's) '96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's '84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion) SOLD: '82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed |
#36
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When I used to use the tank heaters, I connected the inlet of the heater to the block drain and outlet to a tee in the heater hose. That way the hot coolant went directly thru the head and block.
P E H |
#37
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Ok
I know it's the hottest it's been all year...
But I got an espar. I got the hydronic 5. It's the larger unit.. but my friend that bought it for me said it's the same weight and size, and has a bunch more BTUs I'm trying to figure where to install it. It needs 1/2 or so hose connections. do I take coolant from the heater core lines, and let it pump it thru the block? does that work? I have a 85 300SD. There is a coolant line at the drivers side, rear of the block that heads to the cabin. Then there is a line that comes from the water pump area, and switches to metal line and heads to the cabin. Ideas? Come on.. it will be cold before we know it. JP
__________________
________ 1985 300SD 2001 Toyota Tundra - soon to be replaced with diesel truck 2006 Honda CRV |
#38
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MeinGreaseCar, lucky you and good job on planning ahead.
You want to install just like a tank heater if you have room. Then the water pump doesn't have to work so hard and you save electricity - you probably won't have room for a dedicated battery. On daBenz's tank heater, the heater inlet comes from the block drain - right rear. Heater outlet goes to a tee in the cabin heater outlet line - make sure there's no valve between the tee and the engine block. The heater is mounted on the right wheel wheel so the water flows downhill to the heater from the block and uphill to the tee from the heater. More BTUs isn't always a good thing - you need faster circulation with more BTUs so you don't "boil" the water. It's no fun having an engine warm enough to start but not enough electricity because the heater ate it all - been there.
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daBenz - 1970 220D |
#39
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Power
I plan to put a second battery in a marine box in the trunk. A battery isolator will disconnect it from the alternator when voltage is under 12.5
I can tap that battery directly for power for the espar. It will have a seperate small tank for K1. I plan to install a few electric heat elements (filter band heater, and a veg therm) to be able to run the heat elements for a moment or two before startup. This should allow me to run higher Bio content in the winter. That's the plan anyway. I don't think I've seen the heater hose lower right. There is a metal line that is under the air cleaner area. Is that the line you speak of? It's low, but not the bottom of the block. JP
__________________
________ 1985 300SD 2001 Toyota Tundra - soon to be replaced with diesel truck 2006 Honda CRV |
#40
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MeinGreaseCar, my limited experience is with Webasto units on semi-trucks. Battery isolator is a good idea. That's what we did. May want to consider a deep cycle battery and a "shore power" hook up unless the engine runs a few hours at a time. Batteries like long slow charges, and you're going to have to provide a way to vent the battery if you put in into the trunk. Hydrogen gas in an enclosed space is a good way to make an unplanned move to the hospital or cemetery.
Didn't mean to confuse with the tank heater plumbing - my idea was to reduce the electrical load on the Espar water pump by using a traditional tank heater installation. The following is for a tank heater without a water pump - relies on natural circulation. Tank heater inlet from block drain at right rear of engine. Don't know if you can buy a plug with a hose nipple - easy enough to drill and weld or braze into a spare plug. Tank heater outlet to the cabin heater cores return line. Look on the firewall for metal "manifolds" - the manifold without the valves is the heater cores return. The tee goes between the manifold and the left side of engine. That way 1) there's no valves to accidently dead-head the tank heater and 2) you can set the heater cores to "defrost" and some of the heat will conduct up to the heater cores and heat the cabin a bit. Run the hose (from the tee) back along the firewall to the tank heater, keeping it all downhill from the tee. Obviously the tank heater inlet needs to be lower than the block drain, or you won't have any natural circulation. daBenz has lots of room on right wheel well to mount tank heater - you may or may not have room, but that's why the Espar and Webasto have their own water pumps. Hopefully you won't learn the hard way that the external heater's water pump needs to be off when the engine is running. Think carefully about your bio heat setup. Your heat (and control) requirements are very different from somebody in the mid-south. Perhaps you can take advantage of the separate water pump and use the Espar for all your pre-start heat requirements. Done any "payback" calculations for all these contraptions you plan to add?
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daBenz - 1970 220D |
#41
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da benz
Naw.. the money isnt really the factor.
The espar was a gift. If I can figure a way to keep the bio at "gel" instead of frozen.. I'll just run whatever blend that is. I'm guessing that up to 50% k1 may be needed. I plan on a filter heater band, and a vegtherm. That's just a few hundred bucks. Throw in another couple hundred for the upgraded alternator, and another couple hundred for the isolator and second batt. Sounds like a 6 or 7 hundred dollar project. I'll still have less than 3k in a 5 thousand dollar car. JP
__________________
________ 1985 300SD 2001 Toyota Tundra - soon to be replaced with diesel truck 2006 Honda CRV |
#42
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Question about location
Hello Guys,
I've read this whole thread and I noticed most of you are pretty far north. I am in Virginia and I didn't know if I had to worry about this as much as y'all do. My glow plugs work fine and should I consider using one of the aforementioned heaters? I will be starting to run a 80% WVO + 20% RUG blend soon. I just wanted to hear your comments on this. Thanks
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'82 240D Currently running diesel but eventually I will French Fry her |
#43
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Quote:
if you are looking on the cheap, one can use a starter selniod(SP),like from an old ford truck, instead of a isolator. just have it so the switch is closed with the acc from the igntion. that way when running, your charging system will be on both batteries. when you turn off the key, the connection between the battries is broken. save $50 this way, but dont have as much control. works, though.
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#44
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Are you
ready for winter cold starting.
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#45
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Diesel Giant has photos & a write up on how to install the electric type heater. Heck, he even sells a kit.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesblockheaterinstall.htm -kJim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. |
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