BTW, for an HTML-based EPC, try one of the Russian online versions - it works decently well, and is better than nothing:

http://mb.neoriginal.ru/

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I will give it a try. Would you know if the flapper in the intake manifold should move very easily or should there be some resistance if moved by hand.Mine moves abit firmly after cleaning it out as bet as I could. WOuld you spray WD 40 on the flapper mechanism? Thanks

I added a dab of Mobil 1 grease to the bottom pivot point of the flap, where it sits in the intake manifold.

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'97 E300
'99 E300

Try these!

Attached Files

07.1-0005.pdf (494.0 KB, 277 views)

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2016 GLE300d 4-MATIC 38K BROWN!
2012 S350 Bluetec==94k WHITE

2007 ML320 CDI==166K WHITE (FOR SALE)

Under new management:
2005 E320 CDI--140K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-133.5K--THE CAR IS BLUE
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE. Back in Europe!
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
1987 300D Turbo-213K--WHITE
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo-288K--WHITE

Thanks for the vacuum diagram, I however must be an extreme do it your selfer because I still cant tell where certain lines go.

I am trying to find out where the vac hose on the underneath of the intake manifold goes? I keep looking but dont see the male end.

I apologize, I need four discs replaced in my lower back and just cannot bend over for much time while doing this work. This is why it is taking me much longer than it should. I spend a couple of minutes at a time then must straighten up and rest for few minutes, etc,etc, some of you older guys even without back issues can attest to the strain put on while doing these tasks.

Thanks for the vacuum diagram, I however must be an extreme do it your selfer because I still cant tell where certain lines go.

I am trying to find out where the vac hose on the underneath of the intake manifold goes? I keep looking but dont see the male end.

I apologize, I need four discs replaced in my lower back and just cannot bend over for much time while doing this work. This is why it is taking me much longer than it should. I spend a couple of minutes at a time then must straighten up and rest for few minutes, etc,etc, some of you older guys even without back issues can attest to the strain put on while doing these tasks.

Just wanted to confirm that these diagrams are for a 1997 E300D with a 606 engine.

No, that PDF is from the W124 service manual, for a 1995 E300 with OM606.910 engine. Your W210 1997 E300 has an OM606.912 engine. Similar engine, but not identical.

Try the attached PDF file, which is for your car. If those don't match either, I don't know what to tell you...

Attached Files

OM606.912_vac_diagrams.pdf (32.2 KB, 478 views)

Ok, I have everything back together and it was very hard to get the car started. I stopped and waited 15 minutes and it started. The first 20 seconds it ran like a champ with much more power it seemed(responsiveness)

Then it started making noises like I threw a rod on a gas engine and it smoked like you couldnt beleive and had no power plus the tranny would not shift out of first.

I also need to tell you that I had to replace an injector line connection which broke when installing the intake manifold .It was the RETURN LINE FROM INJECTION PUMP TO FUEL FILTER Part # 606 070 05 32

Would replacing this line have this affect on the engine? This is my first diesel and I swear it seemed like the engine blew something. ANy ideas, very apprehensive in starting the car again until I hear from someone with their hypothesis. Thanks

You've got air in there--Any fuel leaks after shut down? i.e., a source of air? It takes a bit of idling to run air out of the supply lines after you've opened it up, especially if you changed filters and didn't fill the spin on with fuel?

I didnt change any filters, only the that I previous mentioned RETURN LINE FROM INJECTION PUMP TO FUEL FILTER Part # 606 070 05 32.

Would letting air into the system make the engine smoke so badly and make knocking noises?

Yes, air is a bugger--did you change the two crush washers under the banjo bolt with that line, also, I presume the new line had a new o ring in the recess at the filter end?

additionally, the clear lines around the pump and filter, can you see air in any of them right now?

NO I didnt change anything, I just reused the washers that were on the old connector. Is the banjo the brass end with the hole in it?

yes-on the block side of the injection pump-incidentally, it's more than a bolt, it's a check valve. . .