Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300! - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

aklim · #1 01-12-2008, 01:25 PM

Also noted that the plugs that came out were Bosch. The "nut" part was smaller than the "Beru" ones that went in. Would that make a difference in the removal? Anyone?

nhdoc · #2 01-12-2008, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Number_Cruncher

I think that using an anti-sieze upon reassembly is important, but ensuring a good seal on this taper is IMO vital. To this end, I think that putting the glow plug in at a reduced torque (in a mis-guided attempt to make it easier to remove next ime) might actually be counter-productive, because the reduced end-load will compromise the taper seal.

Yes, Yes, Yes...it is making sure that the plug seats all the way and makes the proper seal that is key to making sure that carbon does not build up around the thicker tapered end.

I believe that when they are not seated all the way, more than anything else, is what causes them to get stuck when they are attempted to be removed the next time around.

KarTek · #3 01-13-2008, 11:53 AM

Don't know if this is relavent but it's my understanding that the Beru plugs are for cars equipped with the "extended duration" glow system. The Bosch are for the standard systems. This from Roy here at M-shop.

nhdoc · #4 01-13-2008, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Don't know if this is relavent but it's my understanding that the Beru plugs are for cars equipped with the "extended duration" glow system. The Bosch are for the standard systems. This from Roy here at M-shop.

Don't know if that's true or not but our cars definitely have the extended duration glow system. Mine typically stays on for a couple of minutes after startup. I can tell at night especially because the headlights will get notably brighter once they shutoff.

notfarnow · #5 02-21-2008, 07:48 PM

My glow plug light & CEL is staying on, so I pulled the clip on the GP relay and tested each connection. #6 is dead.

Stupid question: Which is #6? Closest to the firewall, or closest to the front?

markg612 · #6 02-21-2008, 07:50 PM

1-6 Front To Back,--yes, Closet To Firewall--GOOD LUCK, You may need it if this is your first attempt at 606 glow plug replacement. Read some of the threads--The hot head trick is the bumdigitly--magnitude 10 patients is required.

notfarnow · #7 02-21-2008, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markg612

1-6 Front To Back,--yes, Closet To Firewall--GOOD LUCK, You may need it if this is your first attempt at 606 glow plug replacement. Read some of the threads--The hot head trick is bumdigitly--magnitude 10 patients is required.

Thanks!

I've read a ton of the 606 GP threads, and am sufficiently spooked. The intake manifold was coming off this weekend anyway for some fuel line re-routing, so I have the GP reamer on hand and was going to pull & ream them.

I already decided that they are all going to come out easily, no problem; I intend to will it so. I just need an appropriate sacrifice for the Altar of the om606 Gods.

Either way, I don't begrudge it. I was pleased as punch to be able to test the individual plugs in under 5 minutes flat. Sure beats pulling the "bus bar" on a old VW diesel. Whoever came up with that design deserves to eat a bowl of them.

P.E.Haiges · #8 02-21-2008, 09:29 PM

notfarnow,

How did U know it was #6? Wewre U going b y te numbers on the GO cable connector?

THose numbers do not mean the GP number. Some of them will read Infinity ohms. CHeck each hole to a terminal of a GP so U know which one is which, then write it someplace, preferably under the hood.

P E H

Brian Carlton · #9 02-21-2008, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

THose numbers do not mean the GP number.

Yes, Paul, they do.

notfarnow · #10 02-22-2008, 08:15 AM

Yes they're numbered 1-6.

Parrot of Doom · #11 02-22-2008, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notfarnow

I already decided that they are all going to come out easily, no problem; I intend to will it so. I just need an appropriate sacrifice for the Altar of the om606 Gods.

Use a torque wrench to remove them. If you get past 70nM then take a break and start thinking about penetrating oil and heat.

Warren C · #12 02-28-2008, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom

Use a torque wrench to remove them. If you get past 70nM then take a break and start thinking about penetrating oil and heat.

How much in ft.lbs. is 70nM?

WC

TMAllison · #13 02-28-2008, 05:56 PM

52 ft lbs.

Use penetrating oil a few days in advance, then warm engine immediately before attempting to remove. You can run it with the IM off; will smell a bit but be OK.

GO SLOW.

JimSmith · #14 02-28-2008, 05:57 PM

70 Nm is about 51.5 ft.-lbs. Try this site for converting useful units:

http://iconvert.meatarian.co.uk/

Jim

P.E.Haiges · #15 02-22-2008, 10:57 AM

Brian,

Are we talking about the numbers molded into the GP connector housing?

Those numbers in my 116 engines GP connector don't agree with the GP number (cylinder number). I figured the 302 engines were the same. Guess I can't be right 100% of the time.

P E H