Not to start another oil thread... but other people have reported the same problem when using Mobil-1 0W-40 in an OM60x engine. In addition to noisy lifters, oil analysis showed increased wear metals as well. Both problems went away when the engine was switched back to either 5W-40 (my personal favorite) or 15W-50. Either one should be fine year-round, even in MN or IL. The factory uses 0W-40 to help meet EPA fuel economy numbers, not for engine longevity. Avoid that super-thin stuff.

BTW, the Valvoline is a Group III synthetic - I wouldn't go past about 5k on Group III oil (including Rotella Syn, Castrol SynTec, etc). Mobil-1 (and Amsoil) use Group IV/V base stocks, which are fine for extended drain intervals. I change my Delvac-1 at 10kmi and the analysis says I could probably double that. There's no need to change the filter in between, the filters are oversized for the application to begin with... but it doesn't hurt if you do (just top off as needed after the filter replacement.)

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Hey Dave,
I talked to Ashland's petroleum engineering group a year or two back. They said the same thing about the durability of their synthetic vs Mobile One. Interestingly they said at 3K intervals protection was identical between their synthetic and mineral product. Needless to say, the Synthetic performed way better at cold temps, but no difference at operating temps until it pasted the 3K point, then the mineral base break down started, and at 5k, the synthetic break down started.--They recomended the summer winter plan I mentioned to start with as the 3K interval with their Premium Blue worked like a cleaning process because of the strength of the additive package in turn with the winter straight synthetic for cold start protection.--I've actually run their 15W40 Blue in all my cars gas and diesel other than winter.

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Mark
========
THE WHITE FLEET
2016 GLE300d 4-MATIC 38K BROWN!
2012 S350 Bluetec==94k WHITE

2007 ML320 CDI==166K WHITE (FOR SALE)

Under new management:
2005 E320 CDI--140K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-133.5K--THE CAR IS BLUE
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE. Back in Europe!
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
1987 300D Turbo-213K--WHITE
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo-288K--WHITE

That sounds like a good plan, Mark. The Group III synthetics are fine if you don't mind changing them more often. And they are definitely better than dino oil. About using diesel oil in gas engines... I use Delvac-1 in my E500 (gasser) as well. Just got an oil analysis back, and it looks excellent - practically no wear. Great stuff!

I too use Delvac 1 in all my cars, Diesels and gasoline models for the last five or six years. I have yet to send any samples out for analysis, but I typically change the oil in my Diesels between 8,000 and 10,000 miles and about the same in the gas models, perhaps a few thousand miles more now and then. Glad to hear the oil analysis confirms it is a good selection for the gas models as well as the Diesels. Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Not to pull this thread too far off topic, but... Where do you find Delvac 1 and/or Mobil 1 Turbodiesel, specifically in 5 quart jugs (or even 4 quart jugs)?

FWIW, I live in MD.

Tnx.
W

Now I know I don't want a E300D.

My 617 engine is easy to replace the GP, nothing has to be removed from the engine.

My 603 engine is a PITA to change the GP but not a bad as the E300D.

P E H

A little mom and pop store called Wal-Mart has the 4 quart M1 5W40 Diesel oil. It's the same price as the 5 Quart jugs of the other varieties of M1.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Actually the job sounds like a bigger deal than it is. I was taken aback as well when I learned to work on anything on the intake side of the engine (where all the stuff that needs periodic attention is, by the way) you have to remove the manifold. Turns out this procedure makes the job a 30 minute event to get it off and get it back on once you have done it. Getting a beat up sound/air flow baffle on the bottom of the engine is the bulk of the work for me. So, if you like the car don't let this hang you up. If you don't like the car, well then the point is moot. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Followed the instructions, broke off the glowplug? Read here for how to pull the remainder of the plug out of the head.

...Alan

Woohoo! Just got all six plugs out without breaking a single one! Six smilies for six plugs!

Thanks to a tip I read here about getting the engine fully warmed up and pulling the plugs as quick as you can before it cools down. All six came right out, no fuss!

They look to be the original plugs. Genuine mercedes part with the 3 pointed star logo on the them. The top part (where the electrical connection is) is all rusty and corroded (Gee, maybe that's why they didn't work ).

Car has 152k miles. Intake is rather nasty with >50% restriction on some of the ports. Time to clean that before bolting it back on.

Thanks MercedesShop forums!

(and since were talking oils at the moment, I too use Delvac 1, in both the E300 and our VW TDI's and like it a lot )

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'98 E300 turbodiesel

Now you have to update your signature with this victory!

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raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

Had a bad plug yesterday. Fixed it. While I was there, I noticed that they squeaked when coming out. Well, tomorrow I will get a wire brush and clean the bore up. My #2 came out all the way but wouldn't leave the bore. Screwed it in and tried again. This time it came out. I almost crapped in my pants when it was stuck and just about wet my pants when it came out nice. Bore brush tomorrow.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

The wire brush might help. Much better would be the official reamer. It's expensive for what it is, but will make your investment in glowplugs last longer. One of the failure modes is overheating due to being encrusted with carbon.

Probably so but I don't have the official reamer with me today. Nobody I know carries it locally so if I want it, I will have to wait till next week.

What I have seen with the flashlight is that the bore is not a straight shot. It is straight and then narrows for the tip. Sticking a pick in, I can see that the tip seems fine but the body of the GP that goes into the larger part of the bore has some carbon in it.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

>>I can see that the tip seems fine but the body of the GP that goes into the larger part of the bore has some carbon in it.

This is exactly as per my experience. When I did mine, 4 of the glow plugs came out really easily, just a case of cracking them loose, and unscrewing by hand.

The two which were (really!) difficult had leaked carbon beyond the sealing taper, and the carbon was sticking to the main body of the glow plug.

I think that using an anti-sieze upon reassembly is important, but ensuring a good seal on this taper is IMO vital. To this end, I think that putting the glow plug in at a reduced torque (in a mis-guided attempt to make it easier to remove next ime) might actually be counter-productive, because the reduced end-load will compromise the taper seal.