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  #76  
Old 03-30-2007, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
Thanks,

I'll call phil and get a quote. I need some other stuff as well. Do you put the anti-seize on just the threads or the some of the body? Do you use a specific brand and part number of anti-seize? Will it be bad if that stuff gets into the prechamber?

Does anyone have a socket prefference to remove the glow plugs? Would a snap-on socket that grabs the flat part be better than the standard hex socket? I think I heard it was a 12 mm deep socket, correct?.

Thanks,
Jay
Get any anti-seize you want as long as they are for spark plugs. It shouldn't get into the prechamber unless you stuff it in or you coat the tip. You can coat the threads and even the body but if you don't touch the tip, I cannot get into the prechamber.

12mm deep will work. I used Craftsman but you can use whatever you want.

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  #77  
Old 09-15-2007, 09:29 PM
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Sorry to bring this all the way to the top again. I just successfully changed all six glow plugs on my W210 E300 today, and couldn't have done it without this *brilliant* how-to article. Many thanks!!!

Cheers, John
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  #78  
Old 09-16-2007, 08:08 AM
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This is a great writeup! Very informative, should be in the DIY section!
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  #79  
Old 09-16-2007, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
This is a great writeup! Very informative, should be in the DIY section!
It IS and has been for quite awhile...thanks to Lightman back in 2004!
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  #80  
Old 09-17-2007, 08:23 PM
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Glad to do it guys. It never gets old hearing that someone used it successfully!!
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  #81  
Old 09-17-2007, 10:27 PM
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Too bad that Lightman has left our Mercedes diesel ranks though - no more words of wisdom like this. It was a BIG help to me too.
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  #82  
Old 09-24-2007, 01:43 PM
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Glowplug Replacement Gone BAD

Followed Step by Step Glowplug Change directions by LightMan. Everything was going somewhat smoothly (removed 4) then I rounded over number 4 Glowplug and broke off number 6 Glowplug. I think I need to remove the cylinder head to have these two Glowplugs removed. I do not want to try drilling number 6 so removal is my option. Does anyone have any step by step directions on how to remove the cylinder head?
The EGR valve was packed with black buildup and is stuck shut. Does anyone know any way of freeing this up?

Please HELP!
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  #83  
Old 09-24-2007, 02:16 PM
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The dealer has a special tool kit available that can sometimes remove a broken GP w/o removal of the head. Not all dealers have the tool.

You can clean the IM/EGR with most solvents. I filled mine with B99 and left it overnight on the workbench. Helped loosen most, but not all, of the crud.
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  #84  
Old 09-24-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
The dealer has a special tool kit available that can sometimes remove a broken GP w/o removal of the head. Not all dealers have the tool.

You can clean the IM/EGR with most solvents. I filled mine with B99 and left it overnight on the workbench. Helped loosen most, but not all, of the crud.
Tried it. Had 2 MB techs look it over and they couldn't use it for that car. The heli-core inserts were of the wrong size.

I took mine to a machine shop and had them clean it for me. I cleaned the EGR myself with brake cleaner
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
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  #85  
Old 09-24-2007, 07:09 PM
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Broken glow plugs

This car has ben converted to run on wvo. So Im reluctant to take it to a dealership and pulling the head wold give me a good chance to see the condition of the engine after running 40000 miles on wvo.
I put the EGR in a can of sovent to soak over night..

Thanks for the help.
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  #86  
Old 09-24-2007, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RonHiveley View Post
This car has ben converted to run on wvo. So Im reluctant to take it to a dealership and pulling the head wold give me a good chance to see the condition of the engine after running 40000 miles on wvo.
I put the EGR in a can of sovent to soak over night..

Thanks for the help.
I am finding that the oily smoke that the crankcase pushes into the turbo ends up in the engine. On the way, it picks up black smoke. That and the oily mist is what the black crud is probably. I took the tube from the crankcase to the turbo off and routed it under the car. Lets see what it looks like next time.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow
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  #87  
Old 10-28-2007, 12:08 AM
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Well done

I had to laugh after viewing your photos, you did the same thing I did, 86-ed the shut of needle valve on the fuel filter. What leaky POS--If you had to, do you think if you pulled the charge tube, one could replace just about all of the glow plugs without pulling the manifold?

Also, I recently cleaned my intake (606 non turbo) at 265,000--wow! what a difference in off the line performance and passing acceleration. night and day. 7 of 12 intake tubes were over 1/2 blocked.

What an insidious failure. every non turbo engine should have an intake boil out ever 50K. Absent the turbo, which I miss, this engine is the 1,000,000 mile motor that make stutgart famous. three thousand miles between changes of 15W40 Blue Valvoline and no usage. AMAZING ENGINE.
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THE WHITE FLEET
2016 GLE300d 4-MATIC 38K BROWN!
2012 S350 Bluetec==94k WHITE

2007 ML320 CDI==166K WHITE (FOR SALE)

Under new management:
2005 E320 CDI--140K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-133.5K--THE CAR IS BLUE
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE. Back in Europe!
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
1987 300D Turbo-213K--WHITE
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  #88  
Old 10-28-2007, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by markg612 View Post
I had to laugh after viewing your photos, you did the same thing I did, 86-ed the shut of needle valve on the fuel filter. What leaky POS--If you had to, do you think if you pulled the charge tube, one could replace just about all of the glow plugs without pulling the manifold?

Also, I recently cleaned my intake (606 non turbo) at 265,000--wow! what a difference in off the line performance and passing acceleration. night and day. 7 of 12 intake tubes were over 1/2 blocked.

What an insidious failure. every non turbo engine should have an intake boil out ever 50K. Absent the turbo, which I miss, this engine is the 1,000,000 mile motor that make stutgart famous. three thousand miles between changes of 15W40 Blue Valvoline and no usage. AMAZING ENGINE.
The key to keeping the intake clean on the non-turbo's is to redirect the CCV gases and redirect the EGR intake tube. I've run this setup for approx. 50k with no issues or CEL's. the EGR letting the exhaust gas into the intake tract is ok, it's the CCV gases that combine with the soot that create that paste you had to remove while cleaning....

My N/A OM606 is soon to hit 200k and has yet to display any real noticeable oil consumption. With good synthetic oil you can extend your oil change intervals dramatically. Make sure you run a diesel rated oil...
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  #89  
Old 10-28-2007, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
redirect the CCV gases and redirect the EGR intake tube.
Insight on your process? how did you do this?


Quote:
Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
With good synthetic oil you can extend your oil change intervals dramatically. Make sure you run a diesel rated oil...
I use synthetic in the winter 5W40 Valvoline SynPower to 5K or April, whichever comes first and 15W40 Premium Blue in the summer at 3k mile intervals. Synthetic or Mineral lube properties are nearly identical at 3K miles. I like the additive package in the 15w40, keeps things squeaky clean and no ticky lifters. The 5w40 is a must in the winter in MN or IL. I've had issues with 0W40 Mobile One--ticky lifters and erratic oil pressure at idle after warmup.
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========
THE WHITE FLEET
2016 GLE300d 4-MATIC 38K BROWN!
2012 S350 Bluetec==94k WHITE

2007 ML320 CDI==166K WHITE (FOR SALE)

Under new management:
2005 E320 CDI--140K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-133.5K--THE CAR IS BLUE
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE. Back in Europe!
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
1987 300D Turbo-213K--WHITE
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo-288K--WHITE
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  #90  
Old 10-28-2007, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg612 View Post
Insight on your process? how did you do this?




I use synthetic in the winter 5W40 Valvoline SynPower to 5K or April, whichever comes first and 15W40 Premium Blue in the summer at 3k mile intervals. Synthetic or Mineral lube properties are nearly identical at 3K miles. I like the additive package in the 15w40, keeps things squeaky clean and no ticky lifters. The 5w40 is a must in the winter in MN or IL. I've had issues with 0W40 Mobile One--ticky lifters and erratic oil pressure at idle after warmup.
Here is one thread... Carbon in intake? 1996 E300D

Another... ReRouting CCV lines on E300 [NON-Turbo]

As far as oil..... Others may chime in. Best to stick with one oil year-round. Different additive packages from different oils may have adverse affects on long term reliability / oil comsumption. Mobil 1 5w-40 TurboDiesel is an excellent oil to run in these OM606's... I have run mine w/ 5k filter changes and topping off to 14k w/o adverse affects confirmed via oil analysis.

No need to get creative with different oils for different times of year. I have run my E300 in cold and hot climates. Since I've relocated to a warmer climate the past 2 years I changed from the Mobil 1 Turbodiesel to AmsOil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine. Slightly thicker oil, slight margin of additional cushion.

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