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  #1  
Old 03-18-2004, 11:15 PM
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Question Crankshaft/sprocket movement

Yet another question on the rebuild we are doing!

Should there be any play in the sprocket that is attached to the crankshaft? Logic seems to say no, since any about of delay could throw off timing (wouldn't it?), but we're having a hard time finding the exact answer to this in the manual. You can turn this turn this sprocket by hand maybe 3 degrees. Would this also account for the large timing chain stretch?



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Old 03-19-2004, 06:59 AM
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You are correct that there should be NONE.....not sure on the other question....
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Old 03-19-2004, 06:34 PM
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Pull the sprocket off and check crank, key, and sprocket -- something is worn there. There should be next to no (or better none) play on the sprocket.

If the keyway is worn oversized in the crank, you may be able to get a good machine shop to cut it oversized and cut the keyway in the sproket to fit -- might need a gear shop for this.

If the camshaft is scored or beaten up, replace it, it's cheaper than getting a custom sprocket made to fit after grinding the crank down...

If the sprocket is worn, get a new one.


Peter
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Old 03-19-2004, 09:29 PM
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Well, after dismantling, it looks like the Woodruff key is worn (there's a ridge in it where it meets with the edge). Such a small insignificant looking thing... probably having a significant effect! I suppose where it sits could be worn too...

Now we just have to figure out who sells these things. Dealership?
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Old 03-19-2004, 09:41 PM
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It's just a little nickel-dime part that you can pick up from a Benz dealer. Machine shops that do enough Mercedes would also keep some on hand.
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2004, 10:03 PM
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I've only done a few 617's but I remember heating the new crank sprocket to 250 degrees and dropping it onto the crank snout like you would on a VW or Porsche crank.
The keys are dirt cheap and the crank sprocket isn't bad. I'm all for not wasting money but how often do you pull your crank?
There should be no play on a new one.

BTW, have fun with that rope seal
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Old 03-20-2004, 12:06 PM
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Rear seal is easy -- pack it into place with a short bit of pipe by rolling the pipe over the seal, driving it into the slot. Push hard enough to completely seat the seal, but don't crush it.

Leave some sticking up on each side, then make a jig 1 mm thick so that you can use a razor blade or box cutter to cut the end off exactly square with the surface of the block and the pan, but 1 mm higher. Assemble. Won't leak, ever.

The key is to get it firmly installed in the slot and to leave adeqate crush -- the realy key is that the ends must be cut off exactly level. Close will cause leaks at the junction.

You must also be carefull doing it -- there is a locator pin in the center, both sides, and if you pull the seal out after stabbing the pin into it, it can also leak there sometimes. Make sure you have enough seal sticking up and the ends to cut square.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Last edited by psfred; 03-20-2004 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 03-20-2004, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
have fun with that rope seal
I thought the rope seal was pretty straightforward.

I suspect it is what I have always refered to as pump packing.

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