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#46
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bump bump
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#47
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bumppppp
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#48
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You seem to have done a good job covering all bases. The actuator is confirmed to work properly but, you have no output voltage from the amp. Clearly, the amp is the culprit. Soldering these items is not a definitive solution in all cases. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
There have been members who have ditched the factory cruise because of the frustrations that you have encountered. They have installed an aftermarket system which seems to do the job, however, it's not without its own development effort to adapt it to the vehicle. If you seriously want to go aftermarket, I probably can find the thread on it. I've got similar problems with the SDL. The actuator is certainly NG and the amplifier may or may not be OK. But, I'll spend the $200. to get a replacement unit (either actuator or amp) rather than attempt to reinvent the wheel with an aftermarket unit. Furthermore, nothing will hold speed like a M/B cruise. Just amazingly precise, even with a diesel that demands a huge movement of the linkage when climbing grades at speed. |
#49
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Im not really thinking "aftermarket cruise", although I would be very appreciative if you could find the link!
I was more thinking other car manufactureres cruise control amp. I just went to junkyard and pulled 2 cruise amps (total cost of $5.81). One was from a 93 Passat, one from a 88 GTI. I'll let you know how it goes... I agree as far as Mercedes cruise actuator is concerned - the electric motor actuator is far more precise than vacuum driven actuators so common on the 80's and even 90's cars. But the cruise amp is not very good, the VW unit made by Hella would be every bit as precise if not better, and FAR more reliable.
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#50
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Another happy re-solderer!
Cruise control not working....pulled amp....every solder joint looked great.....shook my head and said "oh well" and began to make perfect looking beautiful solder joints look nasty ugly with my re-solder job. IT WORKED! ...I HAVE CRUISE! If your cruise doesnt work, do this re-solder no matter how good the curcuit board looks. |
#51
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I believe a few gentleman have tried a shotgun approach in changing out all the components that are known to fail or be unreliable at home. I believe it is a few transistors and a bunch of capacitors basically.The list is somewhere on this site. Really not that many parts. I guess one should have some electronic experience before doing that particular proccedure. If instructions were adaquate perhaps the majority could do it themselves with a little care. Too bad that nobody has gathered up the parts required and offered them as a package. The newer parts are far more reliable than the originals ever where in my opinion. I suspect when getting a rebuilt it basically is changing out the known fail prone parts and resoldering the board and retesting. There is perhaps some promise in the possibility of finding a unit off another car and wiring it in with slight to moderate modification. Once accomplished by someone if possible there might be many copycats. I remember that the phillips company of europe did not know how to do good solder assembley for years and years. Perhaps they built these cruise amps for mercedes? But their stuff may have been worst as there were a lot of problems almost immediatly. As someone speculated these amps failed so early that a lot of parts where just sitting there for years.
Last edited by barry123400; 09-19-2006 at 12:06 PM. |
#52
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bump for a thread on installing aftermarket cruise
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#53
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
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