Yes, we have cruise.. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

wolf_walker · #1 03-30-2004, 09:18 PM

Pulled the three cruise modules I'd been wanting to from the salvage yard today. All from 83 models oddly, one from a 300D, the other two w126's. An interisting note is that the two modules from the W126's, a 300SD and a gasser SEL, are the same part number in every way, identical. I figured a gasser would need different tuneing somehow.

Anyway, I broke out the new weller soldering iron and hit the w123 box. Stuck it in and boom, almost perfect cruise. I'm a happy boy.

I'd tested the boxes on the way home, none worked(surprise).
I plan on doing the two w126 boxes later to see if they happen to work. I don't know that they will work in a w123, as the PCB has slightly different componets, but I'll try it. Failing that I'll find someone with a w126 needing a module and see. I've had pretty good luck in soldering up cruise modules so far. My original went from dead to semi-functioning. I'm going to pull it agian and look it over too.

Maybe if this one lasts awhile I'll get to tryint to come up with a relay system to take the current load off that module.

vwbuge · #2 03-30-2004, 10:13 PM

I'd like to see some pics on your soldering adventures. My ride is going a little weird. I just pulled an amp from another car to try it. You do mean amp, don't you?

BoostnBenz · #3 03-30-2004, 10:25 PM

The never ending soldering fun!

I resoldered my climate control, and tach amp to get them to work. My cruise works though so I haven't had to solder that one, yet.... Nice to know. Could you see any bad spots or did you just resolder all the spots on it?

The Warden · #4 03-30-2004, 11:17 PM

How much would you want to re-solder an amp?

I've got two amps sitting here, and neither of them work...and, while I have a soldering iron, I don't have the other equipment needed to solder circuit boards

Thanks

Fisherman · #5 03-30-2004, 11:38 PM

As long as you are not trying to lay down the traces but just touching up the pins etc a good 15 watt iron works fine. The problem that most folks encounter is when they try to solder a joint on a board with their 40 watt gun and not a finer pencil.

You should do fine.

I too would love to see what you are doing as I have all the equipment but no experience with these boards. Of course the other side is that I could just pull one of my non-working units and have at it I guess.

#6 03-30-2004, 11:48 PM

Someone who has the knowledge should post somthing like a "Basics of soldering" thread. I too am someone who happens to have a soldering iron but no experience with it. I think a soldering basics thread would be valuable to many of us.

#7 03-31-2004, 12:36 AM

First keep the tip tined with fresh sod. second heat the item to be connected, then apply sodier. If you are going to really heat it up put a heat sink on item so you don't fry it.
Warning: Pay attention, don't grab wrong end of iron,{ask me how I know} you will only do it once.
Also there is a item called sodier wick that is a braid copper that will remove hot sodier also a sodier sucker.
Charlie

wolf_walker · #8 03-31-2004, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Charlie Mitchel
First keep the tip tined with fresh sod. second heat the item to be connected, then apply sodier. If you are going to really heat it up put a heat sink on item so you don't fry it.
Warning: Pay attention, don't grab wrong end of iron,{ask me how I know} you will only do it once.
Also there is a item called sodier wick that is a braid copper that will remove hot sodier also a sodier sucker.
Charlie

What he said. Also don't sit down on an iron.. Please don't ask.

My method on these things is basicaly just to flow each solder joint, only adding solder if it really needs it, some will, some will not. The pins are so tight on these things it's easy to add too much solder and span two points, which is bad. Another tip is to use something to do the board in sections, as there are quite a few solder points and you can easily get confused, especialy if your eye sight is like mine.

I'll take a few photos here shortly, going to do at least one of these two w126 amps before bed. There really isnt much to see though, and if you have a spare and an iron, I say go at it. This is a thing that just needs practice. I'm by no means a pro at it, but I have been makeing solder joints in various electrical junk for a good while. I actually had to buy a new iron for these things, my old pencil just was not cutting it for what I wanted to do, which is get in, flow the joint fast, and get out, so as to not overheat anything. You also need to visualy inspect for blown resistors and such, which are easy to replace.

I have a test subject w126 if I luck up twice in one batch and get one of these other two amps working. My local yard is about empty of 14pin amps now, so any further testing might have to involve getting some of you guys to send me your bum amps.
It's tedious work, but a great reward.

MAN it was nice to cruise with my leg at ease tonight..

TonyFromWestOz · #9 03-31-2004, 09:46 AM

I now have an '84 300D with cruise control.
I have tried to use it and it seems to work OK, but when I set it, and remove my foot from the pedal, the vehicle speed drops by around 5 km/h, before holding that speed.
Is this normal?
This may be contributing to the inability of the accelerate /set control to be able to slightly increase the vehicle speed. If I hit it to Accel/Set, it will start to speed up, but when the lever is released, the vehicle speed drops by 5 km/h.

#10 03-31-2004, 10:14 AM

Wolfwalker,

I will gladly be a guinea pig! I have the amp from my '84 300SD (W126) and am picking up my new/used 300TD this Saturday. I know the cruise dopesnt work in that either--so I could supply you with 2 amps.

Please advise.

I see you are in NC, so does the wolf in your name have anything to do with the Wolfpack (as in my name!)?

Thanks

Bud

pdxman · #11 03-31-2004, 01:20 PM

TonyFromWestOz; Could the drop in speed be due to some slack in your linkages? I have heard this can be another issue with CC problems. You may want to check this.

The Warden · #12 03-31-2004, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wolf_walker
My local yard is about empty of 14pin amps now, so any further testing might have to involve getting some of you guys to send me your bum amps.

What's your address? I'll get my two bad amps shipped out as soon as I get back from L.A.

Fisherman · #13 03-31-2004, 03:20 PM

Your front door is about to be inundated with possbly dead amps...

Seriously I'm npot looking for a how to but more a little guide as to how to open the unit etc... Of course I guess I cna just pull one and take a look at it too...

wolf_walker · #14 03-31-2004, 07:22 PM

I'mm PM or email you guys my address, and I'll take some photo's and write a bit on how to get into it this evening.

I got another amp soldered up last night before bed(at 5am, best time to do tedious work like this

)
I'm two for two, the first of the w126 amps works in my 300D. The PCB itself is the same, and there the same year model, so I wonder why the w126 is different than the w123? There are a few resistors either not present in one or present but different rateings, and a couple of IC's have different part numbers. I could understand if they were from different years, but there not.

If you know for sure what it came from, post the production date of your amp here, and the part number and what color the connector is. I'm curious..

Another note, these I'm working with are the 14pin amps for the models with the electric actuator. The earlier models with the vacuum unit have a similier looking amp, though I've never pulled one apart. I imagine there subject to the same failure of the solder joints as these are. Unless I can find someone local I don't have a way to test these, but I might grab a couple and see.

Another thing you should all do is check the amp draw on your cruise actuator, and the function of the switch. This is pretty easy with a milti-meter. Somewhere online there is a good writeup on how to do it. The FSM covers it, but is not so friendly sometimes.

wolf_walker · #15 04-01-2004, 03:34 AM

http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

Those guys have a ton of info there, and some really great troubleshooting procedure. EVERYONE should check there cruise actuator, since it can kill a good amp.

Few photos..

This is the business end of a cruise contorl amp/module. 1983 W126 shown.