We have the required 29 people needed to make the kits.

I am going to set it up on the laser and make a set and install it on the 617. I'll need a couple of weeks to get it all done and will advise everyone at that time when I make the full run.

Thanks Brian!

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1983 300td 240k (down with bad tranny)
1984 300d 222k (daily driver) "Olive"
1997 GMC K2500 105k (sled dog limo)

"The scenery in ANWR is as spectacular as the Grand Canyon and the wildlife is more impressive."

They did and it has. ................. $25.00 will be the price to all

Thank you all for your excellent response.

I will get back to everybody in about three weeks after I have a chance to make a set for testing and then to make the full group for shipment.

Will the EGR kit work for an '80 240D??

Regarding the 240's:

We are sure that the intake plate works on the 240 and several members are fairly confident that the exhaust plate works but are not positive.

I would like to send someone a test plate for the exhaust on the 240. Please e-mail me directly at hpcs@csi.com.

You rock, Brian!! Thank you so much for doing the legwork and making this happen! I'm looking forward to hearing that they are ready to ship. Have a great weekend.

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Richard Detoy
'84 300SD
'76 Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans

maybe this is a dumb question, but if I wanted to leave the EGR on for looks, would this be possible?

One way or another, Count me in!

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

I would think you could. Sandwhich the plate between the manifold and the EGR. You may or may not need longer bolts or studs.

__________________
"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

The purpose of the kit is to get rid of the "look" of the EGR valve.
If you prefer to keep the valve in place for "looks", then the kit is not required. To prevent the valve from operating, just install a piece of hard plastic in the hose to the valve, just in front of the valve.

It would be possible to use the intake blocking plate beneath the EGR valve, if you so desired. However, you would need longer screws to accommodate the thickness of the plate.

I am already on your list for the kit. However, once I receive it I am going to wait until my remanufactured MB engine warranty expires (just in case I have a problem and the removed egr valve causes a problem with a warranty claim). After that, I will install the kit. In the meantime, I have blocked the vacumn line to the valve, which solved my downshifting/black clouds of exhaust/sticking egr valve problem. Thanks for your efforts and innovation!

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DHB

I had the prototype exhaust plate made from .014 stainless. The thickness was perfect. Unfortunately, the fingers were too stiff to bend around the face of the exhaust pipe using a hammer. I bent the fingers with neddlenose pliers to 80 degrees and installed it on the pipe. The size of the fingers and the O.D. of the plate need some adjustment, however, I have taken the SD out for a test run with the plate installed without any problems. The intake plate will be made from .187 stainless, instead of the previously stated .125 and testing of it will commence next week.

Just an update on the progress of the kit:

The intake plates were made from both .187 and .125 stainless. It appears likely that we will go back to the .125 stainless because the finish is much better along the edge. The laser creates some roughness on the thicker .187 material and it does not look that great. I will put the .125 intake plate on the 617 in the next day or so and confirm proper fit.

With regard to the exhaust cap, we will make another prototype in the next week and try it out late next week on the 617.

Should not be more than a couple of more weeks to finalize it.

If any 240 owners are out there, I would appreciate knowing the O.D. of the exhaust pipe after the clamp is removed. If this matches the 617 it will confirm that the fit is identical.

Just an update on the kits:

The .125 intake plate was installed on the 617. You can just barely see the gasket on one side so I will make them about .060 larger all the way around.

The exhaust plate is still awaiting the second prototype because the laser broke down on wednesday due to the warm temperatures. Hopefully, I'll have it by next wednesday.

The stainless button head cap screws are in and I'll put them on the 617 this weekend and admire the look.

An update on the kits:

The .125 stainless intake plate was made .060 larger in all dimensions to fully cover the gasket. It was installed with stainless 8mm button head cap screws on the 617 and it looks perfect.

The new prototype exhaust plate was manufactured and installed on the 617. After bending the fingers to 85 degrees, the fingers were trimmed down to a length of about .125. The clamp fit over the fingers properly and did not distort the plate when fully tightened. I need to run the 617 for a bit to see if it leaks. If it does leak, I'll try some of the 700 degree copper sealant and see if that does the trick.

I'll begin testing on the 603 next week to see if there are any issues with that engine.

An update on the kits:

I have installed the larger intake plate on the 603 and it is perfect with the stainless button head cap screws.

Unfortunately, I am still having problems with the exhaust plate on both the 617 and the 603. When the clamp is tightened, the clamp pulls the fingers together and leaves a slight bulge in the plate right below the bolt. This bulge causes a fairly good leak.

I have tried the plate with all the fingers cut off. This may prove successful if the plate is slightly larger and extends all the way out into the clamp. Alternately, I may try to get a stamping made that mimics the exhaust tube face with a capped end of course.

Sorry for the delay. I thought I could have them all made and shipped by now. I would like to solve the exhaust plate problem without the use of sealant, if at all possible.