Well with a water cooled IC you just need to add another branch to the coolant loop.

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

Yes....but mounting a radiator remotely out front is a lot easier than putting peltiers in such a fasion that they would cool the charge well...would basically end up being a air/air IC config.

The reason I used my water/air unit was that its was easier to run 1/2" heater hose out to the front of the car than it is to run 2.5" smooth perfect pipes for the IC.

I am not connecting my IC system to the engines coolant system...its a completely seperate coolant system...that way the hot engine coolant isn't heating up my IC

And if I STILL need/desire more cooling...I can have a water mister in front of my IC radiator for when moving along at a good clip.

I wasn't think of an air/air peltier IC, I was think more along the lines of cooling the water going into the air/water IC and cooling the peltier with the water coming out or with a seperate branch of the IC cooling loop.

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

I believe that however you do peltier, if you power the thing from an engine driven alternator it will be a net loss. Peltier devices are not very efficient.

What's big bucks? There are quite a few new ones on eBay (air-to-air, would need to modify as you did if you want air-to-water) for $150-200 delivered.

__________________
'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210

A full already done water/air IC is big bucks...all aluminium air/air ones are not so spendy although at 150 bucks...that would be about 140 dollars more than I have spent on this setup so far

You gonna put the other radiator under your bumper? There's a bit of room behind the lower part of the bumper that gets air flow -- perhaps not as much as it would get in front of the bumper.

Do you know what known figures for average reduction of temp of water/ air over air/air are?

I wonder how many other aluminum ICs can be found at boneyards...

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

You'll find of alot of arugments for/against water/air intercooling however with mixed driving especially in the case of low speed high load driving the water/air IC has a much greater advantages over air/air (espically if a fan is used on the radiator of the system).

Not having long tubing runs, not having to carve up the car, and having more "heat storage" for mixed driving make the water/air advantagous. Now if you were running full tilt on the freeway and needed lots of cooling...air/air has many advantages

For instantaneous "hit the throttle and need cooling at any speed" water/air is a better choice. It fits my needs

Update:

I made myself up some tubing out of steel and rubber couplers. Had lots of welding/fab work to do so it took awhile but it turned out pretty nice. I got the radiator in and the system works great!

The cooling system for the IC works well enough that the water was cold after only a very short time wandering back home from some full speed runs up the highway.
The factory Aux. Pump moves some SERIOUS water...I was very suprised. I was testing it outside the system and it throws a good 10 or so inches of water stream. It drained a gallon bucket in about 18 seconds (so about 3-4gpm.

Not a bad little pump...I should score up some more. This one was internally corroded and probably far from saveable but I brought it back to life with some TLC

I'll take pics tomorrow when its light outside.

Hmmm.. that all makes sense. I imagine there might be room for experimentation is how the water is directed across the intercooler -- where you have the inlet and outlet fittings.

Do you mean putting a fan on the small radiator for the IC? Well, what else would you mean, come to think of it. I guess it would be a continuously running electric fan, small motor. I was wondering if an auto heater core or two would make a good radiator?

**EDIT** I just read your second post. What is the factory auxillary pump? I'm curious about that and how you mounted it.

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

My current radiator is actually a evaporator from some vehicle. It makes an EXCELLENT radiator.

If you look at my pictures of the IC you can see how I have the water flowing across the IC. Basically it comes in through two ports and exits through two ports...on opposing sides on opposing ends of the IC. ALSO the feed lines to the T fittings are opposing. It seems to have no problem with even cooling.

The radiator is behind the bumper just to the left of the licence plate. It seems to be cooling fine for now but I'll keep my eyes open for a little fan for it. Now its time to turn my pump up some more and enjoy the HP

I'll get some pictures in the morning...its raining here too..

Ah, I couldn't see the water ports on both sides of the IC. Makes good sense.

Hate to be so ignorant but I'm not familiar with an evaporator. Is it part of an AC system?

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Yep. Its the part of an AC system that is inside the car actually doing the cooling of the air. I didn't get a chance to snap some photos of the car this morning and by the time I get home its going to be dark.

I'l see how well the flash works and if the looks are decent, I'll post some pictures up.

Made the trip from Newberg to Portland today with no problems and reduced EGT's. I need to adjust the angle of the cooler a bit more because its contacting the hood pad pretty hard...I think one of the hoses is just holding it in the wrong position.

The repaired AUX pump continues to work...

make sure you coat the inside of those steel interooler tubes with POR-15, it will rust and rust scales are NOT friendly to internal engine parts. Aluminum is a better long term choice once you sort out what fits and works.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Yes, the cold part. The condensor sits in front of the radiator, the evaporator under the dash.

__________________
'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210

Yep defintely going to eventually go with aluminium. For the moment I don't have to worry about rust (atleast on the inside) becuase of the oil vapors from the engine do a pretty good job of coating the pipes.



I know this becuase I made temporary flanges (test fitting) out of steel before and they still haven't rusted haha.