How much would you pay for a MW pump that was tuned to give say 150 HP at the wheels?


I know there are several shops in the US that have the knowledge and equipment to tune the MW pump for more power, but likely have not invested time in examining the pump due to a perceived lack of demand. Hopefully the data from this post can be used to show that there is interest and $$ in performance tuned MW pumps.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

giles charges around 600CDN for a VE pump rebuild (Volkswagen)



to compare, the finnish will cost upwards of $2k (after shipping, customs, etc...)






it's not cheap. I don't want to see how much plungers and whatnot would cost. We're talking bosch here, afterall.

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

Keep in mind that they add external adjustments, and you can produce 400HP from that $2k pump. I wouldn't spend all that much for $150HP that I could tinker with myself. Now, if they could do things like remove the high RPM fuel cutoff I would do the $400-600.

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John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 240k
'87 300TD - 318k

A stock rebuild costs about $1000, so maybe my price poll is low. I was thinking more of a performance IP adjustment rather than a full rebuild though.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Up to $200 for labor and gaskets. 150 is easy by just turning some settings and/or removing the limiter arm. Removing the oil filter housing for access is harder than tuning the MW pump.

What would be involved in a "performance tuneup" that we cannot do ourselves? If we just remove the rack limiter, tweak the TC as much as it will go before idle problems develop, what else is there to do? I think what we really need are bigger plungers to pump more fuel. It seems that 10mm plungers may be available, so maybe we should follow it in this direction..

EDIT: I voted for 600plus assuming a rebuild with bigger elements. I'd actually pay at least double that.

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99 E300 Turbodiesel 100k

Only problem with that idea is the RW governor probably can't control it. Nobody has tried yet so it may or may not work well enough to be daily drivable. I'm sure it would work good enough to be a dragstrip queen.

Well, in this case it seems to me the best thing to do would be to either modify the RW governor to control it, or to possibly use a different governor. What about the governor out of the same MW pump that the 10mm elements came out of? Are all MW pumps not the same as far as the interface between the pump and governor is concerned? Would either of these ideas stand even a remote chance of working? And what sort of driveability problems would result from having the governor being overpowered by the engine? Its ungoverned above 1000 anyway.. is the problem not being able to hold a steady idle? Is a jumpy idle really a big problem?

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99 E300 Turbodiesel 100k

Nobody has put in 10mm elements yet, so, the answers to those questions are still unknown for now. It might run like normal, it might make the engine run away or anything in between.

It would be awesome if somebody would do it and find out.

BOSCH recommends a specified adjustment order when setting up the pump. I am thinking that if this order was followed then more power, with out side effects like poor return to idle could be gained.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I agree, if nothing else the bench can play around with the system on their bench, see how it responds, and tweak it MUCH faster than we can. They also have numbers to represent performance vs our 0-60 or some such.

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John Robbins
'05 E320 CDI - 240k
'87 300TD - 318k

I'll try to enquire about a "performance tune" when I visit the injection shop this week.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

So being familiar with other than the pump in question, I might be way off but, ...

In pumps I've messed with (CAT), there is a cam, the profile of the lobes determine the injection rate. Higher RPMs need a faster injection rate to make up for the "port effect", that delay that occurs between the pressure pulse at the pump and the pulse hitting the nozzles (yes steel lines do stretch).

For more fuel, usually turning up the rack will allow more max. fuel, basically allowing more stroke of the plunger = higher fuel volume. The aneroid / ALDA will limit this vs mainfold pressure, another adjustment. The throttle pedal is basically moving a mechanical governor, and the limit of that governor or pedal travel is what is referred to as "turning up the rack".

There is usually only a little adjustment available to turn up the rack, after which larger plungers will be necessary to increase the fuel volume per stroke. If too large a plunger is used it will create more stress on the lifter and cam plus being hard to regulate with your foot. Further, the nozzles would need to be matched to the new injection profile and volume.

Am I wrong in applying this to a bosch M pump? I've done this before, but a 10.4l direct-injection CAT is a little different from a 3l Mercedes I'm sure, ... would be fun to get into my spare pump and see what can be done though.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

So far no one has found plungers between 5.5 and 10mm for the MW pump. 10's seem much to large, and the stock 5.5's cannot deliver more than 200HP it seems, and no one in the USA has hit that figure yet with a dyno any of us have seen posted. A simple change to a M myna pump with no other changes puts a proven 140 RWHP, and plenty left over from the pump if you want it. A myna pump is about $2K. This is all for a 617-95X.

well, why not MAKE them?



I've never seen the inside of a m/mw pump. Anything that bosch makes, I'm sure can be dup'd for cheaper (esp. with tool/die/machine shops needing any work possible)


sounds like some lathe turning, heat treating, and grinding.

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)