i have a few questions,

what did you use to shield the heat from the turbo?

how did u adapt the intercooler to the stock intake manifold, did u have to do any welding?

what were the POSITIVES of installing this intercooler, did u notice any more power and how much lower were your egts?

i have one sitting in my garage awating installation so id like to know a few things before i do it. thanks alot - J

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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel
1998 VW GTI VR6
1996 VW GTI 2.0
1999 saab 9-3 turbo
1987 300sdl (sold)

I am just in the design phase right now. I am using a California model intake for my mock up. I am looking for a 1975 300D, W115 chassis intake manofld too. I built a mock up head out of plywood and currently playing around with different configurations. My setup will involve welding,but I can do it myself. I am also going to install a T3/T4 T04E-57 Hybrid turbo - it looks pretty cool so far. I was able to find a exahust manifold from a non egr motor. I think I will add some shielding to the exhaust and I will also coat the exhaust and turbo with Techline Coatings Colorgaurd Aluminum Coating. It is similar to jet coating, but you can do it yourself. I have it on my PSD turbo housing for almost 2 years and it still looks great. I have the daiwoo cover, but I will probably fab some aluminum to route air to the IC. I have also looked at the water/air IC too.

i was thinking the best thing to do would be just put some kinda turbo wrap and insulation from the exhaust then put a fan on top of the intercooler to keep it as cool as possible around town and during hard runs.

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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel
1998 VW GTI VR6
1996 VW GTI 2.0
1999 saab 9-3 turbo
1987 300sdl (sold)

The down side to exhaust wrap is the corrosion that will occur.

The intake manifold has to be welded and the turbo clocked up if you want to mount the IC over the turbo. My turbo has a blanket and then a aluminum heat shield underneath the IC because the exhaust manifold is right there also.

Paint the turbo with 2000* degree paint, and properly sure it(Read the instructions on the can) then insulate it. I painted my manifold and the paint hasn't chipped at all.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Here is what I have so far...

Attached Thumbnails

     

wow that looks really nice.... woul you be able to tell me the dimentions or size of those pipes? better yet if you want to make another set i could pay you for them....

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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel
1998 VW GTI VR6
1996 VW GTI 2.0
1999 saab 9-3 turbo
1987 300sdl (sold)

Thank you. Before I commit to making any parts let me finish the install and let you know how it goes. The pipes I am using are 2" schedule 40 aluminum (2" i.d. and 2.375" o.d. approx.) The reason I used schedule 40 is because I already had a few pieces. The elbows are 45 deg and cost is around $30.00 each. You could probably use schedule 10 and save some money. I also decided to use an O-ring connection to the manifold - I don't like to make things too permanent. I may change the set up if I find a different intake or decide to modify the original one, if this doesnt work. I probably have about 4 hours time in making the parts including machine time and welding. So far, it should fit, but it is going to be snug. I still need to make the support brackets for the IC, probably going to use steel and powder coat, DIY of course.

Rudolf, what will be the high and low pressure area for the air that will go around the intercooler? From your picture I thought you wanted to put a scoop on the hood a la Subaru. Is that your evil plan?

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Your TACH may have a loose connection...I was wondering why your mechanic would be dead one minute then flopping around the next... PanzerSD

i am inspired. i will replace my windsheild... with an intercooler. swedishK

I plumbed mine with MB M117 gas engine cold air intake pick-ups and hoses in a higher pressure area. It generates enough flow that no aux fan is needed as shown by my egt's. One of goals of most mods is to NOT cut a holes in the body or hood.

Very clever indeed! I too believe that I should try to avoid cutting the body as much as possible. In my own case, I fear I will not have an option, but hey.

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Your TACH may have a loose connection...I was wondering why your mechanic would be dead one minute then flopping around the next... PanzerSD

i am inspired. i will replace my windsheild... with an intercooler. swedishK

If you are planning on using a Saab/Blackstone IC on the autobahn you may want to think again. If much of your driving is around town and under 4K rpm, the unit is much better than nothing. Since FI- now somehow reborn after multiple bans including a "permanent" one- and using a different moniker, has never used one he's speaking without actual knowledge. Hypothetical knowledge is useful but real world testing and use trumps what you read in books every time.

edit- now "rebanned".

On heat shields, a piece of aluminum/steel/something in between that has an air gap between it and the heat source (turbo?) will block the radiant heat rather nicely. Then you can put something behind it to insulate against the conductive heat. See the battery shield off an old Saab 900 turbo for one possible idea.

Care to quantify the pressure drop you measured? And, at which cfm values did you take your readings?

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Your TACH may have a loose connection...I was wondering why your mechanic would be dead one minute then flopping around the next... PanzerSD

i am inspired. i will replace my windsheild... with an intercooler. swedishK

Lance under the moniker "forced induction" was banned several times. Then some time back he was banned permanently. He registered under another moniker and was found out in short order and that moniker was also banned. He will not be here to piss more people off- so he cannot quantify anything.